Tamiya TRF418
#1261
Does anyone else run tamiya titanium screws and find they are pretty darn soft? Trying to get some decent torque onto the bottom plate screws in particular results in a bit of deformation of the head and stripping is really quite easy (even why undoing!)
Are the hiro seiko ones any better? (Or another brand?)
Are the hiro seiko ones any better? (Or another brand?)
#1262
Tech Master
Does anyone else run tamiya titanium screws and find they are pretty darn soft? Trying to get some decent torque onto the bottom plate screws in particular results in a bit of deformation of the head and stripping is really quite easy (even why undoing!)
Are the hiro seiko ones any better? (Or another brand?)
Are the hiro seiko ones any better? (Or another brand?)
#1264
#1265
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Does anyone else run tamiya titanium screws and find they are pretty darn soft? Trying to get some decent torque onto the bottom plate screws in particular results in a bit of deformation of the head and stripping is really quite easy (even why undoing!)
Are the hiro seiko ones any better? (Or another brand?)
Are the hiro seiko ones any better? (Or another brand?)
#1266
How is the car on a very bumpy asphalt track? Out out door track is very rough. My T4 '14 gets good air time. Need a chassis more suited for our bumpy asphalt track.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
#1267
Raise your ride height up to 6mm or 7mm and pull out your droop screws if its that bad. Or just buy a TA05 tub chassis car. I don't think switching from one premium chassis to another will help.
#1268
Try a softer suspension setting with higher ride height and more droop.
#1269
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Has anyone tried a homemade active rear toe system on the 418 like some of the other TCs are using now? Front C-hubs & steering blocks in the rear arms, some ballstuds mounted on the chassis plate connecting to the steering blocks?
It seems to be helping the other cars as you can run less rear toe when going straight (say 1.5 deg) for more speed and then when entering a corner the outside rear will compress giving around 3 degrees and helping stability and rear bite.
It seems to be helping the other cars as you can run less rear toe when going straight (say 1.5 deg) for more speed and then when entering a corner the outside rear will compress giving around 3 degrees and helping stability and rear bite.
#1270
Tech Master
Has anyone tried a homemade active rear toe system on the 418 like some of the other TCs are using now? Front C-hubs & steering blocks in the rear arms, some ballstuds mounted on the chassis plate connecting to the steering blocks?
It seems to be helping the other cars as you can run less rear toe when going straight (say 1.5 deg) for more speed and then when entering a corner the outside rear will compress giving around 3 degrees and helping stability and rear bite.
It seems to be helping the other cars as you can run less rear toe when going straight (say 1.5 deg) for more speed and then when entering a corner the outside rear will compress giving around 3 degrees and helping stability and rear bite.
Didnt run it as I never liked that type of layout back in the day when we did it before, it always felt a bit weird to me, and it was another thing to get knocked out of line. But it seems pretty easy to try out (Just need to use some spares from your pit box (I used 3x23mm turnbuckles).
I would rather try some DJ pro suspension than this.. need to dig it out of my loft box.
#1271
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Does anyone else run tamiya titanium screws and find they are pretty darn soft? Trying to get some decent torque onto the bottom plate screws in particular results in a bit of deformation of the head and stripping is really quite easy (even why undoing!)
Are the hiro seiko ones any better? (Or another brand?)
Are the hiro seiko ones any better? (Or another brand?)
No offense intended, but you are mega over torquing them.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobi...l%20Screws.htm
14 inch pounds is the torque spec. If you've ever had an inch pound torque wrench that's not very much. We used to use a lot of aluminum screws into aluminum parts on my direct drive car. If you over torqued them, the screws would gall and wreck both parts.
The solution I use is a dab of thread locker (as small as I can put it on the screw, and then wipe it off). I use this stuff, from an industrial supply, hydraulic, or auto parts store. It's a gel like lip gloss so it's easy to use.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...lue-gel-detail
#1272
Got my 418 today from Towers. Was $430 shipped with member discount. Couldn't pass up on that deal On top of that, it was still the one with the bonus parts included I guess I got lucky seeing that price went back up to 750
The X is probably due this Dec, but it is usually a convertible upgrade, so no problem there.
The X is probably due this Dec, but it is usually a convertible upgrade, so no problem there.
#1273
Only happens on the counter sunk ones, not the button heads - they seem to take more grunt.
#1274
Tech Master
Got my 418 today from Towers. Was $430 shipped with member discount. Couldn't pass up on that deal On top of that, it was still the one with the bonus parts included I guess I got lucky seeing that price went back up to 750
The X is probably due this Dec, but it is usually a convertible upgrade, so no problem there.
The X is probably due this Dec, but it is usually a convertible upgrade, so no problem there.
Also the new car will probably have the short shocks and low towers that the Evo6 has (Although team drivers are not using them), as the car has to be perceived as different enough to buy a revision.
#1275
Tamiya sets (even those sold by Tamiya) are the same grade as run of the mill Hong Kong suppliers sell (which is pretty much all after market suppliers). These are soft, but work well with decent tools like Hudy.
Another option would be to give up Ti screws and use steel (12.5 grade) because the car is very light as it is (mine is about 30 grams below weight and we are running at 1340gr, which is light). If your tools are worn, even these will strip though.
The threadlock solution is very good. I use Loctite 262 ( purple ), a very weak threadlocker, mainly to prevent galling and water ingress especially Ti or Al into aluminium but good for steel screws as well.
I use superglue on the chassis everywhere, and torque the screws tight, but never had a problem since using Loctite on the threads. The superglue acts to stop screws backing out (the threadlocker not so much, more anti-corrosion as explained).