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Old 05-23-2005, 01:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berger
I dont see how applying heat to a wire can damage it.... can you explain fully?

A wire's resistance rating goes through the roof when heat is applied to it,that's the main problem,ever seen a wire after a short circuit has been applied to it? it's pretty ugly and renders the wire useless.In the four years or so that 've been using deans plugs I've NEVER had one come loose during a race OR during a wreck.I always use new plugs AND wire when building batteries,You should replace your wiring and plugs at least once a season anyway,for efficiency reasons.The key to the deans plugs is not to over heat the plug while soldering the wire to it,it's not hard at all once you've done it a few times.
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Old 05-23-2005, 01:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
I'm sure most do this already but some may not, have the bars bent on the + and - terminals so you just solder to the bar and not the actual cell.
By having bents bars on the end of the cells you're not getting as much of the supposed benifit of reduced soldered connections. There's still two just like when using corraly's.

Over here I don't think I've ever seen anyone direct solder, practicly everyone uses corraly tubes. They need a good soldering iron to get them on securely in the first place but once done and with good quality male connectors you're very unlikely to have a disconnection from a crash. As for wiring up the wrong way round, just be clever with your wiring layout, often it's possible to make one wire only long enough to connect to the correct terminal on the battery.
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Old 05-23-2005, 03:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losixxx
Hmmmmmmmm
Ide like to hear some more input on this I direct solder but it (may) be a bad thing after all.
I dont remember the technical terminology. Wires have properties that if heated up excessivly (evaporate) causing reduction in current flow, and corrosion to settle in faster thus increasing resistance.
Heat up a piece of wire and watch the wire strands change color!
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Old 05-23-2005, 03:26 PM   #19
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Ok then, lets try another, who solders their motor in or their brushes on?
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Old 05-23-2005, 03:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berger
Ok then, lets try another, who solders their motor in or their brushes on?
Because of my previous knowledge I do solder motors in but I pinch the brush lead under the spring.
Its a little more difficult to use connectors on the motors. I would even go as far as say replace the speedo wires every other month!
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Old 05-23-2005, 03:32 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedxl
Thats why I say if a connector cameout with a crimped end you wouldnt damage the wire. I am sure there are ways to manufacture a connector that wont "accidentally pop off" during a race.
Power poles can be crimped instead of soldering.
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Old 05-23-2005, 03:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Power poles can be crimped instead of soldering.
Unfortunately the tool to make the proper crimp is way too expensive.
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Old 05-23-2005, 05:14 PM   #23
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Right, I'm also one that uses Power poles on my batteries, but I hardwire everything else. really, the only TRUE advantage to hardwiring everything is the strength of the connection(because a good solder joint is just as strong as the materials that are connected by it), so it does pretty much eliminate ANY chance of the battery disconnecting in an impact. But to me that isn't worth the convenience of a good connector so I still use 'em on my packs, & I'm sure I'm not a good enough driver to notice the tiny difference in electrical resistance either way.....
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:23 PM   #24
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I've seen connectors come loose, but I've never seen a well soldered battery come undone.
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:08 PM   #25
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Hector, there's a few Japanese companies that sell plugs for motors as well. Kinda like "euro plugs". The female end replaces one of the brush hood screws. The male end solders onto the wire.

Anyways, I used to use the Eagle "euro plugs". I had no issues with them. Or never had batteries come undone. But I had to go away from them and back to hardwiring only cause I changed cars (TC4). Now that I no longer have the car, I have been considering goin back to euro plugs again. It's alot less hassle for me. Especially if I go to a club race that ends up being in a parking lot that does have power.
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:20 AM   #26
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One of them is the "DSE" plugs from Kawada.

http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/
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Old 05-24-2005, 06:35 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kufman
Unfortunately the tool to make the proper crimp is way too expensive.
You can buy crimping pliers at any home depot,lowes or tool store,for a reasonable price there not really all that expensive.
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Old 05-25-2005, 01:19 PM   #28
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those for the motors are cool those are the ticket for the motor.
As soon As I get back from the reedy I am going to start running the corraly pluggs. I may even try to find the ones for the motor. Nowadays there sholdnt be a need for soldering, other then to assemble the packs. imagine showing up with a charger only. wait till brushless is completely accepted.
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Old 05-25-2005, 01:34 PM   #29
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Quote:
You can buy crimping pliers at any home depot,lowes or tool store,for a reasonable price there not really all that expensive.
Those aren't the proper crimping device for the anderson connectors. They work at some level, but I was talking about the real crimpers being expensive.

these


http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebComme...KU=28C3013&N=4

or this one

http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebComme...KU=25C6826&N=4
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Old 05-25-2005, 01:57 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=kufman]Those aren't the proper crimping device for the anderson connectors. They work at some level, but I was talking about the real crimpers being expensive.

I've worked as an electronics tech for some time now and I don't know of many companies (even large ones) that is going to splurge for those pliers when any basic crimper will work just as good.I never crimped power poles anyway I soldered them.If your using power poles don't, switch to deans they are better and much more efficient,and won't come loose.
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