Patriiick

iTrader: (3)

i have an absolutely totally optioned f201 (full carbon) that i have to let go.. please look in the classifieds section for details.. or pm me..

Neil Rabara

Is anyone else excited that Formula1 will be starting soon?

gtypecanare

So does that mean the F1 party is at Neil's?

Hardriven RC

Something i found during extensive testing about the clear plate.

On Carpet, leave it on and screw it to the arms. Give it a lot of steer.
On pavement (asphalt), if the track is smooth, leave the plate on but don't screw it to the arms. Gives the car less steer.
If the track is bumpy then remove it.
The reason for leaving the plate on is that it acts as sort of an droop control. This way you can get more preload on the front springs without getting a rideheight of 15mm.

My 2 cents

Neil Rabara

This sounds interesting enough to try. Do you go by TCS rules out there in Belgium, or just regular club racing?

Hardriven RC

We go by European TCS rules. Basicely this means that we can only use Tamiya parts. The F201 i use has every hop-up availeble. I use the speedgearing every now and then when i drive on a large circuit and depending on wich motor i use.

Oh yeah, I won the first TCS race we did this year, so i must be doing something right. This is offcours in Belgium so that may not be saying much
Did lap everyone tough.

Regards

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

The part about it being like a down stop is very logical.Will give it a whirl.UOTE]Originally posted by Neil Rabara
This sounds interesting enough to try. Do you go by TCS rules out there in Belgium, or just regular club racing? [/QUOTE]

ritchie

try mounting it, and screwing the screws only part way in, (adjustable down stops).

Hardriven RC

Ritchie,

If you do that then the arms are more prone to break. I don't know why this is, but the only arms i broke so far where when i did what you are suggesting.

Regards

hemi426

iTrader: (7)

Hi,

I've a F201 Chassis with most of the Tamiya Hop Ups. I used the setting from Dave Jun posted on the Tamiya USA site. When I adjust my suspension rod length the way described in this article, my car barely gets its a** from the street (meaning: low ground clearance). Can anyone confirm this?

Another question: Motor is an Tamiya Acto Power Blue. Does anyone know the best timing for this motor?

Thanx

Hemi

Germany

psycho

hemi426

Sounds like your track width is not the same as Jun's.

I'm not familiar with that motor, but if you start with 24 degrees of timing, you should get a good feel for what it can do.

Hardriven RC

Don't advance the timing of the motor beyond 10° because it will lose all torque.
Hemi, at what track in Germany do you drive? btw Sounds like your ride height should go up to 5 mm in front and 6 mm in the back.

Regards

Neil Rabara

You can also try adding some preload to the shocks. That will change your ride height.

Neil Rabara

Well, it's more prone to break if you hit something. Not really due to stress or fatigue. I still believe that the best downstops is not the fiberglass plate, it's the o-rings in the shocks. The fiberglass plate still hinders the proper operation of the front suspension.

hemi426

iTrader: (7)

Hi and thanks for all the input. I already have more preload than mentioned in the setting sheet. Now I increased the length of the rear suspension rods by 1.5mm and it looks better. I will also adjust the length of the front rods (+1mm)

I was just curious how someone can achieve a ride height of 4mm front and 3.5mm rear with these settings:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/...f201setup.html

24 degrees of motor timing also seems to much for me, since the acto blue only has a 10 degrees scale painted on the housing and I thought timing adjustment should be in this range (0-10°).

Hemi