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Old 02-11-2004, 02:38 AM   #1156
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Default talking about hop ups :)

i have an absolutely totally optioned f201 (full carbon) that i have to let go.. please look in the classifieds section for details.. or pm me..
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Old 02-13-2004, 11:40 PM   #1157
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Is anyone else excited that Formula1 will be starting soon?
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Old 02-13-2004, 11:44 PM   #1158
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So does that mean the F1 party is at Neil's?
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Old 02-14-2004, 03:37 AM   #1159
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Something i found during extensive testing about the clear plate.

On Carpet, leave it on and screw it to the arms. Give it a lot of steer.
On pavement (asphalt), if the track is smooth, leave the plate on but don't screw it to the arms. Gives the car less steer.
If the track is bumpy then remove it.
The reason for leaving the plate on is that it acts as sort of an droop control. This way you can get more preload on the front springs without getting a rideheight of 15mm.

My 2 cents
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:24 AM   #1160
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hardriven RC
Something i found during extensive testing about the clear plate.

On Carpet, leave it on and screw it to the arms. Give it a lot of steer.
On pavement (asphalt), if the track is smooth, leave the plate on but don't screw it to the arms. Gives the car less steer.
If the track is bumpy then remove it.
The reason for leaving the plate on is that it acts as sort of an droop control. This way you can get more preload on the front springs without getting a rideheight of 15mm.

My 2 cents
This sounds interesting enough to try. Do you go by TCS rules out there in Belgium, or just regular club racing?
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:36 AM   #1161
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We go by European TCS rules. Basicely this means that we can only use Tamiya parts. The F201 i use has every hop-up availeble. I use the speedgearing every now and then when i drive on a large circuit and depending on wich motor i use.

Oh yeah, I won the first TCS race we did this year, so i must be doing something right. This is offcours in Belgium so that may not be saying much
Did lap everyone tough.

Regards
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:04 AM   #1162
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The part about it being like a down stop is very logical.Will give it a whirl.UOTE]Originally posted by Neil Rabara
This sounds interesting enough to try. Do you go by TCS rules out there in Belgium, or just regular club racing? [/QUOTE]
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Old 02-14-2004, 11:39 PM   #1163
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try mounting it, and screwing the screws only part way in, (adjustable down stops).
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Old 02-15-2004, 03:28 AM   #1164
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Ritchie,

If you do that then the arms are more prone to break. I don't know why this is, but the only arms i broke so far where when i did what you are suggesting.

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Old 02-16-2004, 06:18 AM   #1165
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Default Question about F201 Setup & Motor Timing

Hi,

I've a F201 Chassis with most of the Tamiya Hop Ups. I used the setting from Dave Jun posted on the Tamiya USA site. When I adjust my suspension rod length the way described in this article, my car barely gets its a** from the street (meaning: low ground clearance). Can anyone confirm this?

Another question: Motor is an Tamiya Acto Power Blue. Does anyone know the best timing for this motor?

Thanx

Hemi

Germany
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:47 PM   #1166
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Default Re: Question about F201 Setup & Motor Timing

hemi426

Sounds like your track width is not the same as Jun's.

I'm not familiar with that motor, but if you start with 24 degrees of timing, you should get a good feel for what it can do.
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Old 02-16-2004, 05:04 PM   #1167
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Don't advance the timing of the motor beyond 10 because it will lose all torque.
Hemi, at what track in Germany do you drive? btw Sounds like your ride height should go up to 5 mm in front and 6 mm in the back.

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Old 02-16-2004, 06:06 PM   #1168
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Default Re: Question about F201 Setup & Motor Timing

Quote:
Originally posted by hemi426
I used the setting from Dave Jun posted on the Tamiya USA site. When I adjust my suspension rod length the way described in this article, my car barely gets its a** from the street (meaning: low ground clearance). Can anyone confirm this?
You can also try adding some preload to the shocks. That will change your ride height.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:10 PM   #1169
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hardriven RC
If you do that then the arms are more prone to break. I don't know why this is, but the only arms i broke so far where when i did what you are suggesting.
Well, it's more prone to break if you hit something. Not really due to stress or fatigue. I still believe that the best downstops is not the fiberglass plate, it's the o-rings in the shocks. The fiberglass plate still hinders the proper operation of the front suspension.
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Old 02-17-2004, 01:48 AM   #1170
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Hi and thanks for all the input. I already have more preload than mentioned in the setting sheet. Now I increased the length of the rear suspension rods by 1.5mm and it looks better. I will also adjust the length of the front rods (+1mm)

I was just curious how someone can achieve a ride height of 4mm front and 3.5mm rear with these settings:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/...f201setup.html

24 degrees of motor timing also seems to much for me, since the acto blue only has a 10 degrees scale painted on the housing and I thought timing adjustment should be in this range (0-10).

Hemi
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