I have a tto2r that I was running at a very large competitive race with some of the best drivers in our state I qualified in fifth place and finished in fourth place the car was as fast as everyone else the only downside was I wasn't able to adjust by droop the way I needed to to make the car as reactive as I needed it to be speed wise I was on Pace with everyone I just couldn't keep rebuilding the shocks and putting spacers in them between the runs as the grip levels changed the key to getting this car to run competitively is getting the gearing right you will need a 69 tooth spur gear with a 63 tooth pinion in 64 pitch that is the gear ratio I was told to run on shaft drive and it worked, motor temps are fine. The downside is you have to set the motor mount in the car with one screw line it up then use a long hex driver through the back of the chassis all the way to the motor mount to tighten it then you need to pull it out tighten the bottom screw in the motor mount and the top screw put the motor mount back in the car and put both bottom screws in so it's kind of a pain in the butt but you only have to do it once if you look back in this thread you will see pictures of my car it is a green castrol tt02. And this was with the short tto2 arms I upgraded it to the 419 arms and I was getting quite a few podiums and several wins against some of the top shelf cars I used the Tamaya droop plates on the bottom of the car as they are made out of steel and put the weight as low as it can get I also ran the same chassis in usgt with quite a bit of success this car is all about setup once you get the setup right it's actually quite easy to drive fast good luck you can easily win with the SRX with the droop adjustment and the correct gearing

Finally got my GT12R dialed in and got to mess with my TT-02 tonight. I'm trying to figure out what kind of gearing works for a just for fun VTA build. This is an Arrowmax 59 pinion and a RW 68 spur (3.00 FDR). I can go slightly smaller on the pinion with the 68 too. I tried 54 and it was touching but pretty loose. The only thing stopping the motor from meshing better was this corner touching the motor where the bearing is on the chassis. A little grinding and I could fit the 54 to get a 3.27 FDR without having to change the spur. Also you can see there is quite a bit more room for a bigger pinion and/or spur to get a much lower FDR!

Getting back into R/C after 35 years or so (life happens) and there is a local track and one about 2hrs from me that has a TT02 stock class that I can run so I'm thinking of starting back with this platform (in addition to a TC4 I picked up for random fun in a class that will allow it).

Been reading what I can in this thread and elsewhere (YT etc.) trying to take a crash course on TT02 platforms and racing specs. What I would like to do is invest in decent electronics (radio etc) so I can expand to other platforms as it makes sense.

The local shop guy recommended a "Noble" for a radio that I somewhat checked out but I'm curious as to what people recommend for receiver and servo for the 02.

Sounds like only basic Tamiya hop up parts are allowed as I think locally they are following TCS rules.....so bearings etc. but nothing too "interesting".

What breakable parts should I stock up on? As I know Tamiya is 99.99999% plastic normally which means things will break.....

Am I thinking about this right?

If you're getting the Noble radio it'll come with a receiver. Servo, any basic low profile one will do.

Welcome back! Stock TT02 is a ton of fun, at our track (NORCAR Ohio) we allow ball bearings, front cvd’s and whatever body you think is cool. Full size 2S battery packs but you don’t have to use Tamiya plugs. Gearing, Motor and ESC as it comes in the box.. Flysky Noble are awesome radios, pretty sure they come with at least one receiver so you are good to start.. servo wise.. anything of a somewhat reputable brand in the $50/$60 range will do a great job.. spare parts? TT02s are pretty robust.. the occasional front and rear hub.. and the stock pinion wears pretty quickly..

I have been running the ProTek RC 140T servo in my GT ProSpec for the last two years with a Tamiya blue aluminum servo horn (no servo saver). That servo has taken its share of hits both outdoors on asphalt and indoors on black carpet and its as good as new. Highly recommend it (plus its not quite Tamiya blue but close enough...LOL )

Thanks a ton guys, appreciate it.

Last racing was maybe 1990 or 1991.....original RC10 platform, a Bolink pan car and my grail was a Schumacher cat that got run over by a car and then I got my drivers license and 35 years later, back at it.....never really lost the bug, just have a ton of other hobbies etc like everyone else.

I want to get the TC4 up and running as well, I always liked Associated but I know it is now an older platform and I scoured the web for some additional parts for breakables etc. Unfortunately there aren't many classes locally where I could run it.

I am going to be running my tt02 srx in the vta class what spur and pinion size to start is going to get me close for vta

also what is the biggest pinion that fits in the car

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I kinda lean in that direction. I am looking to pick up my first LiPo for my TT02r and I was wondering what size mah battery should I buy in order to balance the car down the center? I am running a 540 silver can with a HW1060 speedo and a ProTea 140 servo if any of that matters. Thanks guys!

This or 60/70 to get 3.03 and adjust from there.

This will get you close:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...15-22/p1370770

I have found the Protek 2s 5000mah battery works the best for me for balance and lightweight. Been running my LiHV for 3 seasons now.

Hi r_lud

love your ride!

rctech newbie, back in the hobby after 30 years and tinkering with my TT02 911 RSR with some good progress (and acceptance of that the XRAY X4s at my local club will still lap me).

QQ : Is there any reason for why the PSM Upper Mounts + a set of turn buckles wouldn't work for camber adjustment for the TT02. Seems like a much more elegant and lighter solution than Tamiya's own Adjustable Arm Set (54874).

Thanks in advance!

actually.. I don’t think it would work.. the SRX uses the TRF hubs/hub carriers with standard hubs you would need a solid mounting point on the chassis..