Just ordered a bearing kit and will call it a day on this one. If anything I will use it to teach my boys.

It's human nature to want to improve and give yourself some kind of advantage. We would still be chasing our dinner with a stick or rock if it wasn't for that.
The track needs to set strict and clear rules. Looking into how past attempts at this have failed and hopefully not making the same mistakes.
Definitely make everyone use the same chassis. Same motor and ESC to keep price down and hopefully attract more people. It be nice if there was a brushless motor that was consistent and sealed so people couldn't monkey around inside of it.
I'm not sure what they can do about everyone buying the same body. Production cars only would get my vote.

I race TT-02 and some things you just have to modify on this car. You will find yourself DNFing about every race if you don't, and that will discourage a lot of people.
I never had any problems with the center shaft. In fact that's still one of the very few original parts on my car. You will be popping front dog bones very easily after a few crashes. A heavy duty wide bumper and O-rings inside the cups will help keep them in. Otherwise new control arms will be needed.
I would leave friction shock in. They aren't that good but keeps things simple for people starting out. The track can do another TT-02 class permitting a few upgrades for people who want to adjust the cars.
A better stearing rack mount is also a must. The 2 screws that go into the chassis will bend and strip out. You need to send a screw through the chassis and nut it on the bottom.
None of these mods will make you go faster. It will just help you finish the entire race and not 2 minutes into a 7 or 8 min one.

Agree.. RCGT is what brought me into racing.. and on the one hand USGT kept the class going but then it’s turned into TC light class

We run a similar class.

The thought process behind what hop-ups are allowed, is durability and driveability.

So we only allow bearings, alloy motor mount, CVA shocks, rear hubs, and front universals.

Tyres are the club's own control tyre.

TCS GT Spec Novice is a box stock + a short list of hop ups. These hop ups would be hand picked for durability, not bling. It’s also a very popular class at TCS.

We also run Eurotruck at our track and people pop out those dog bones all day long.. allowing 1 simple upgrade to address that would go a long way to improve the class..

Again it’s about durability

The one thing I would allow is aluminum steering uprights for the TT01 and TT02. They are similar and break easily. The TT01E uprights are different. My friends and I raced in an enduro a few years ago and they used TT02's. I suggested to the track owner that he have plenty of the parts in stock. He had one set and in a matter of minutes it was gone. People were scrambling to find a way to fix the problem. I think an enormous bumper like the Euro Truck's might help. The aluminum doesn't improve performance or handling, but allows hackers like myself to continue and they would definitely help younger or novice drivers.

You need to have spares when racing! I carry 2 packs of C hubs for my TRF/TB Evo cars.. because those are the consumables.

The best bumper is this one by X Ray.. it covers the wheels well, it’s hard and doesn’t take $h!t from any barrier lol

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=1862

I also race the Tamiya TT-01E Euro trucks. I was TQ and A-main winner on my first two race days and never once had a dogbone pop out. My truck has bearings as the only upgrade. Maybe I don't crash enough, not sure.

Norwalk Ohio runs a TT class. Very close rules except open tire. A lot of people buy euro trucks, run that class and swap bodies to get two classes in.

That sounds good. I hope this spreads throughout the country.

How do you guys run the stock tble02s with lipos?

I'm trying to get something like this off the ground around here.
The key is less about costs (since a well painted body costs more than the whole darn car) but focus on who is the better driver not who has the better setup - and as you say if you don't allow any adjustments to be made you limit the class getting out of control. (I personally would allow cosmetic mods, just so people can feel they have something different, even though they have no performance impact).
Trick is trying to get the ones that have 4-5 xrays to drive a tub car again. It's not like they are budget sensitive

Seth

The only thing I do when setting up the TBLE-02s speed control with a brushed silver can motor is to disable reverse.

It doesn't seem to have useful cutoff but with stock motor you'd have to run 40+ minutes to bring down a 6K pack.
I limit to 7-8 minute runs to keep motor temps down. Starts getting smelly past that.