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Originally Posted by CapTob
(Post 13228813)
It has alot of tamiya hop-ups. But it could't help completely fixing the steering slop.
im new to this as well but one interesting thing I found was using rally blocks vs on road tires is that the difference in trim was +6 points. I assume only that the blocks are a tad wider hence the need for extra trim... Have you also added shims? I've added them as well to the front wheels which reduces play... |
A little bit of steering slop is fine, I have a lot of cars and they all have some slop (even the top end cars) My TT02 has the aluminium arms and I shimmed it a little and I have very little slop now, its precise and sharp on the track.
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Okay thank you for the informations.
I bought the Carson steering set... but it was crap so I put back the stock one but with the Tamiya 54550 Low Friction Screws. Fixed a little play. Then I noticed play on every tire. Basically, there is play between the shafts and the rear and front uprights. So I bought aluminum front and rear upright, but it still didn't fixed the problem... So I bought nylon shims to put between the outer shaft bearing and the small metal "stick" that holds the bearings in place... Breaks my tire so that the car won't drive anymore... Put a lot of grease and now it's okay. 3 more posts and I will be able to show you nice pics of my yellow Lancia and every piece that has slop or play. Thanks a lot guys. One day I'll fix this with your help. |
Originally Posted by CapTob
(Post 13232385)
Okay thank you for the informations.
I bought the Carson steering set... but it was crap so I put back the stock one but with the Tamiya 54550 Low Friction Screws. Fixed a little play. Then I noticed play on every tire. Basically, there is play between the shafts and the rear and front uprights. So I bought aluminum front and rear upright, but it still didn't fixed the problem... So I bought nylon shims to put between the outer shaft bearing and the small metal "stick" that holds the bearings in place... Breaks my tire so that the car won't drive anymore... Put a lot of grease and now it's okay. 3 more posts and I will be able to show you nice pics of my yellow Lancia and every piece that has slop or play. Thanks a lot guys. One day I'll fix this with your help. |
Originally Posted by Qatmix
(Post 13233198)
You can shim the axle movement with Tamiya shims you need Tamiya 53586 4mm Shim Set. You only need a few between the axle pin and the bearing. You can also put them on the inside of the axle at the base of the axle going into the inside bearing. you still want a little movement to ensure they spin freely.
Do you guys feel like there is play between the shafts and the front and rear uprights? I mean that the axle are slightly to thin for the bearings? A few more posts and I'll show you with pictures and co. |
No, I have no movement between the axles and the bearings, the shimming will help.
remember though, a little bit of movement is fine, a car with no slop is usually binding or shows up any other minor imperfection in the rest of the components. |
Has anybody purchased the TT-02D?
It comes without a body but that's okay since I'm not totally happy with the rally based body choices in kit form.
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Has anyone upgraded their front knuckles to aluminium ones? After about 25 or so cartwheels/front flips, face plants of my tt02 I've finally busted my left front knuckle... i've opted to order the standard parts as they're cheap.. but thinking now maybe I should've gone aluminium ..
If so has anyone had issues of the aluminium knuckles bending under stress from bashing etc? |
Currently I have been using the reenforced plastic ones. These are on the a parts sprue for the TT02D you can buy the A sprue separately. It's well worth it as you get a lot of the key components (steering, towers and hubs) all in the harder plastic.
I have also bought the aluminium front parts from jaz hobby on eBay. They seem good value but they are in my spares bundle atm as I prefers plastic where possible. If rallying then I would have no problem swapping the out to these parts. |
Currently I have been using the reenforced plastic ones. These are on the a parts sprue for the TT02D you can buy the A sprue separately. It's well worth it as you get a lot of the key components (steering, towers and hubs) all in the harder plastic.
I have also bought the aluminium front parts from jaz hobby on eBay. They seem good value but they are in my spares bundle atm as I prefers plastic where possible. If rallying then I would have no problem swapping the out to the alum hubs. |
Wouldn't have thought they'd change the plastic just for d spec!
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Originally Posted by Djchow85
(Post 13240924)
Wouldn't have thought they'd change the plastic just for d spec!
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
(Post 13237545)
I have also bought the aluminium front parts from jaz hobby on eBay. They seem good value but they are in my spares bundle atm as I prefers plastic where possible.
I'm already eyeing a buggy for xmas... good learning experience since the tt-02 is my first! :blush: |
Originally Posted by Qatmix
(Post 13241121)
Only the A parts, they are very good.
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Part number is 19000614
Saying that I have just broken one of the front hubs (Although I whacked a board at full tilt) Basically it comes with harder plastic versions of the towers, upper bulkheads, Front and rear hubs (and spacers) and it also comes with the steering arms. So most of the key parts you want to be stiffer are there. You will still need to file down the limiters on the front uprights if you want a lot of lock though. I am now going to try the Jaz hobby hubs to see how they work. |
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