Cool. I am trying to talk the guys at my track into letting me run their Giulia in VTA.

That would be the best looking body in VTA hands down. Im only slightly biased given my avatar and the fact that I own a 69 Giulia GTV ;)

I have the Killerbody Giulia NIB, just have not gotten around to painting it up. I usually run the M chassis Giulia on my M06 Pro

This one is RIP

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...pse73e9a5a.jpg

I haven't had the heart to run this one yet

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...pse3979d62.jpg

The Porsche looks great but the 9T motor will be overkill for those tires.
Did you use inserts for these tires?
Try to mount a set of oil filled dampers, along with some inserts for the tires it will improve the cars handling a lot.
To enjoy the maximum of this car, the best motor choice for this type of chassis would be a 17.5T in blinky mode.
That should give you enough speed and fun to enjoy the car at the most.

That's just my opinion

Below you'll find a great website to get lots of information about the TT-02.
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html

that is a nice looking porsche. :)

..hey, that number 8 on the hood ...is that from the HPI porsche kit? (I had several cup racers and remember that 8 decal coming w/ the kits). ...or maybe the tamiya one comes w/ the same decal??

I only ever used a 9t motor in my tt02 and thought it was fine

Used it with rally and street tyres

I really just bought it to thrash on in the parking lot at work (overnight security at large office building) and on the road in front of my house, seem just fine. Didn't put the inserts in yet. Seems tail happy and quite a bit fun to thrash on. The yeah racing alloy kit is on the list which comes with "okay ish" oil filled shocks from what I have heard. I've been reading there as well as here.


Thanks :)

That actually came with my kit. When I first sprayed the indy silver, there was a second where the paint seemed to 'spatter' and the trunk lid got the worst of it. Covered with the decal, zero fkz given. Will likely experiment with masking off the body line that goes up the trunk lid and maybe trying some flat black plasti-dip with a satin clear over to make a 'stripe' but still cover the garbage paint section.

Hello guys! I haven't written in a while. Today I've got some news for you. I installed a carbon look rear wing (I don't know if it gives some downforce, but it gives an awesome JDM look :lol:) and a light kit, so now I can bash even by night :D
The kit receives signals from the receiver and is powered by the BEC. When the car is not moving stop lights and headlights light up dimly; headlights fully light up when accelerating , stop lights fully light up when braking and turn lights flash when turning. If the module doesn't receive any signal for few seconds, all lights flash.
Next thing I'll do is trying to repaint my bodyshell. I know that probably buying a new one is better, but the one I want is the D-Like RX-7 RE Amemiya and I found it just in HK (rcmart). It costs 35$ + 35$ for shipment, so I'll try to repaint my body first.

Now here I go with my noob questions :sweat:
I'm very happy with my rc and my Trackstar combo. The car is stable and has a fast accelation. I know that with a 2S LiPo battery my car will have higher performance (I use a 3000mAh NiMH battery) but I'd also like to play with timing and gearing to see how my car performs. I use an IR thermo to check motor temps every 5-10 mins (my battery lasts about 30 mins) and I read about 50-55° C even in hot days with stock endbell timing, blinky ESC (i just disabled the low battery cut off) and stock FDR. I don't know if stopping few seconds helps reading every time those temps. Probably I can bash all 30 mins full throttle and read about the same temps, but I don't wish to run the risk.
So here's the noob question: i know changing gearing/timing/turbo will affect my temps, so what can I do to make my car run faster without cooking my motor? With the Tamiya High Speed Gear Set will my car accelerate much slower?
Thank you very much for your help :D

What are you timing settings now?

I've been playing around with setting my esc to give me a higher top speed (Tamiya Xv-01), but not get the motor too hot. I've found putting 12+degrees of turbo, and no base timing. The key to not burning up the motor, and longer run times is to delay turbo. Mine is set to more than .3seconds. Also trigger turbo at over a certain RPM, like 20000rpms. This way even if you smash the throttle, on a corner exit, you need to car to be traveling at a certain speed before the turbo (high rpm, melty motor) kicks in. If you are good at not smashing the throttle on every acceleration, you can also set your turbo to trigger on full throttle + rpm. I use a Hobbywing esc. I am pretty sure most ESC have some if not all the settings. I am talking about.

If you feel that these settings (without boost timing) aren't torquey enough at the low end, you can adjust punch rates on your esc. All cars are different, tire grip and all, so play around with your punch settings. I found (with certain tires) too much low end punch is great for acceleration, but the tires might spin out, causing you to lose control on corner exits.

I hope that helps. Good luck.

Endbell timing is in the middle (I believe it is 20 degrees) and ESC timing is 0 (blinky). I didn't change either endbell or ESC settings except for the low voltage cut off

I believe end bell timing is the same as esc boost timing. Then turbo is a separate setting.

I read that in certain race classes turbo isn't allowed, nor esc boost. But endbell can be tweaked all day.

Endbell timing I can't speak much to, since I have never moved mine from 0. Through I know if you are running a constant 20degrees, then you are already running at a higher top RPM, at the cost of low end torque and heat.

You can't go fast and not expect to build heat..

Though some things that can help is a lighter car, a fan for the motor and not constantly on throttle. In my mod buggy I reach 55 degrees on a cool day after about ten minutes. This is expected. It's good to rest your motor too. End of the day, it's a toy car

I've recently bought a new TT02D for club racing.

I ditched the drift wheels and ran it last night.

To be honest it was awful.

The lack of adjustment is I guess the main culprit as stock it runs zero camber and no rear toe in.

I can add hop ups, a mixture of genuine tamiya and yeah racing but that costs about £80.

Since the chassis only costs £89.99 I figured I'll pass on that.

What about the option to convert it to a Type S? Is it possible? What parts do I need?

I think buying those part trees would possibly cost more than a TT02D.

Maybe something else would be better suited to my needs. (I'm in the UK)

You're still looking at a very steep grocery list!

The TT02S comes with the older 416 suspension arms but if you're going to do it you might as well get the 418 style arms that I have listed

54570 - TRF418 Carbon Reinforced Rear uprights
54031 - 4º Caster Hub Carrier (416/417) Carbon Reinforced
54568 - TRF418 Carbon Reinforced Steering knuckle
54569 - TRF418 Carbon Reinforced Arms Front and Rear
9804837 - Front Sus Shaft Adapter
9804838 - Rear Sus Shaft Adapter
9805681 - 3 x 48.5 Suspension shaft
53825 - 2.6 x mm Suspension shaft
54636 T02 Type-S Steel Sus Mount - Front
54637 TT02 Type-S Steel Sus Mount - Rear
9804237 - Gear box joint
54515 0 42 mm cvd joint or buy the axle and dog bone
8 x 10x5x4 bearings

I think the included arms in the TT02S is longer than the 416 short reversible arms or the new 418 arms. Those are the first gen reversible arms if I'm not mistaken