The blue decks have been out of stock since... at least thanksgiving. So a year now. *shakes head* I'm not pleased.

Say WHAAAAAAT! Where'd you get your info???

The important thing about the new hard deck is that it is actually a proper hop-up with the 54*** prefix. So these should be plentiful.. and importantly, they are also going to look better.

I like the blue. (and white, as the case may be.)

I used machine screws on mine with the stock black chassis (these are recent kits so I don't know if there's any new change) I tap the holes with a "gun tap" that is about half way between a starter tap and a bottoming tap. You must be patient while tapping. Take care that the tap enters straight and that you remove it straignt up so as not to damage the top threads. I use a thumb and one finger to turn the tap handle by it's collet. Do not use the t handles or tap too quickly as you will possibly overpower the tap when it gets to the bottom of the hole. This will strip out the threads and you will have to get a new chassis and start over. On softer plastic like the shock mounts on the suspension arms I use tapping screws. If you have an old chassis plate, a bit of practice wouldn't hurt.

At the present time I use 14 titanium machine screws on the main chassis. 4 each for the 2 diff covers, 4 more for the gear cover and 2 for the front bearing cover. For the steering arm mounts I ream out the screw holes with a 3mm reamer and use a long machine screw with a lock nut inserted into the lock nut socket visible from the bottom of the chassis. This way you can be pretty precise about bolting down the steering gear without having to worry about stripping the plastic chassis hole. My M3 x 10 machine screws come from Yokomo and any titanium tapping screws used come from the Yeah Racing TT02 titanium screw kit which is presently out of stock on this date. All are hex tool screws

My thoughts are to use machine screws in those parts that are removed for maintenance like the diff covers and the tapping screws elsewhere to avoid having to tap about 2 dozen holes. Sorry that I don't post here more often but I've been racing since 1973. Back then it was 1/8 scale nitro cars in the Roar 73 series.

New body,It's the 2nd one of these Raikiri's
I liked it so I had to double up.

Tanx for the likes!!
My car is Working beyond comprehension .Outdoor beat assphalt track.
Frnt 1 mil ,rear 250 k. Shocks 37.5 Assoc
,traxx plastic shim #3981 one each at front arms and rear as well .One each side rear wheels.
Car feels like it's running In the track instead of On the Track.I can finaly push it quite hard.I dnt like the servo arm ,want one that lays flat to wards the servo more.Cheers

Those are out of stock everywhere, would these work?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-...BoCorQQAvD_BwE

I also think my soft rubber tires might be causing steering issues at high speed. Any recommendations for rubbers for bashing / casual drag racing?

Take it to Larry's or Bay City tracks and I'm sure someone will give you a hand. They both run these in GT Spec class.

Those are too far away, that's why I'm looking for help here

I don't race my TT-02, just bash it around the neighborhood or local parking lots

Hard inserts won't help with tyres ballooning at high speed. What you want are belted tyres, which have belts/cords embedded into the rubber carcass, preventing the rubber ballooning under high centrifugal forces. Alternatively, foam tyres won't balloon so are ideal for speed runs but will probably wear quickly if you slide the car on coarse pavement. They also have a lot of grip compared to rubber tyres, so the car will be more prone to traction rolling.

Belted tyres are not cheap. I would just use regular rubber tyres for bashing, and buy a set of foam tyres for speed runs.

Might be a Silly question, but is the Tamiya 58571 Porsche Carrera RSR regular wheelbase as all others? Looking for a possible Christmas gift for my youngest.

Was reading the description, but saw no actual specs:

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4...rera-rsr/tt02/