Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Have you run the grounding wire for the none carbon tubs like Tamiya suggests?
http://www.sosidge.com/category/rc_cars/tamiya-ta05-r/
Tech Elite
iTrader: (26)
Hey guys,
I'm running a 05 that was origionally a IFS but I removed the IFS and added another shock tower at the front. Luckily the kit came with everything needed to swap out that IFS crap!
This has dramatically improved the performance of the car, now she handles like a dream, and managed to race ok a few days ago.
ok well anyways i'm running 70/35 gearing but I really need to lower my FDR to about 3 to 3.5 So I will need to run a 45T pinion gear (for 3.5 FDR).
My question is, will a pinion this size fit? I dont have any to test out so was wondering if any of you guys have run anything similar?
I'm running a 05 that was origionally a IFS but I removed the IFS and added another shock tower at the front. Luckily the kit came with everything needed to swap out that IFS crap!
This has dramatically improved the performance of the car, now she handles like a dream, and managed to race ok a few days ago.
ok well anyways i'm running 70/35 gearing but I really need to lower my FDR to about 3 to 3.5 So I will need to run a 45T pinion gear (for 3.5 FDR).
My question is, will a pinion this size fit? I dont have any to test out so was wondering if any of you guys have run anything similar?
Suspended
If you had problems, may not be the receiver location.
Have you run the grounding wire for the none carbon tubs like Tamiya suggests?
http://www.sosidge.com/category/rc_cars/tamiya-ta05-r/
Have you run the grounding wire for the none carbon tubs like Tamiya suggests?
http://www.sosidge.com/category/rc_cars/tamiya-ta05-r/
That the link that you gave me shows a neat and yet worrisome situation I've never seen or heard of before. Then again I guess no one would since the body's covering the chassis.
My servo is acting really weird (super slow) so maybe I got zapped and didn't know it. I ran six packs outside with it and had no crashes. I'll opt for part# 53893 if this could be a problem - thx
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Should I be running one simply b/c its belt driven? Or b/c I might run it on carpet? Or both? I've been into RC since a while, but this is my 1st belt drive car.
That the link that you gave me shows a neat and yet worrisome situation I've never seen or heard of before. Then again I guess no one would since the body's covering the chassis.
My servo is acting really weird (super slow) so maybe I got zapped and didn't know it. I ran six packs outside with it and had no crashes. I'll opt for part# 53893 if this could be a problem - thx
That the link that you gave me shows a neat and yet worrisome situation I've never seen or heard of before. Then again I guess no one would since the body's covering the chassis.
My servo is acting really weird (super slow) so maybe I got zapped and didn't know it. I ran six packs outside with it and had no crashes. I'll opt for part# 53893 if this could be a problem - thx
The link I gave had a link to the statement from Tamiya:
" running R/C car constantly charges and discharges static electricity caused by friction from pulley and belts/gears, etc.
The amount of static electricity that is built up changes according to conditions such as temperature, humidity, driving environment, part material, and chassis layout. Some R/C cars may experience mechanical trouble or out-of-control driving due to sudden discharge of static electricity.
We have discovered that the component layout of the TA05-R Chassis Kit (ITEM 49418) makes it relatively vulnerable to the scenario described above, if used with a metal-geared servo under certain conditions.
As a preventive measure, use of the TA05 Lightweight Carbon Lower Deck (ITEM 53893) is recommended. This carbon and fiberglass deck effectively dissipates static electricity generated during R/C car operation. "
They mention the 'R', but the layout is the same for none 'R' so I's assume the same problem effects all models using that tub chassis.
Last edited by TwoTone; 01-27-2009 at 01:51 PM.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
run the grounding wire if you dont want to buy the carbon chassis.
Suspended
It's a static charge build up that Tamiya has admitted happens with the TA05 tub chassis. It can be correct with the grounding strap or buying the hop up carbon re-enforced tub.
The link I gave had a link to the statement from Tamiya:
" running R/C car constantly charges and discharges static electricity caused by friction from pulley and belts/gears, etc.
The amount of static electricity that is built up changes according to conditions such as temperature, humidity, driving environment, part material, and chassis layout. Some R/C cars may experience mechanical trouble or out-of-control driving due to sudden discharge of static electricity.
We have discovered that the component layout of the TA05-R Chassis Kit (ITEM 49418) makes it relatively vulnerable to the scenario described above, if used with a metal-geared servo under certain conditions.
As a preventive measure, use of the TA05 Lightweight Carbon Lower Deck (ITEM 53893) is recommended. This carbon and fiberglass deck effectively dissipates static electricity generated during R/C car operation. "
They mention the 'R', but the layout is the same for none 'R' so I's assume the same problem effects all models using that tub chassis.
The link I gave had a link to the statement from Tamiya:
" running R/C car constantly charges and discharges static electricity caused by friction from pulley and belts/gears, etc.
The amount of static electricity that is built up changes according to conditions such as temperature, humidity, driving environment, part material, and chassis layout. Some R/C cars may experience mechanical trouble or out-of-control driving due to sudden discharge of static electricity.
We have discovered that the component layout of the TA05-R Chassis Kit (ITEM 49418) makes it relatively vulnerable to the scenario described above, if used with a metal-geared servo under certain conditions.
As a preventive measure, use of the TA05 Lightweight Carbon Lower Deck (ITEM 53893) is recommended. This carbon and fiberglass deck effectively dissipates static electricity generated during R/C car operation. "
They mention the 'R', but the layout is the same for none 'R' so I's assume the same problem effects all models using that tub chassis.
Tech Master
iTrader: (83)
Hey guys, Im thinking about picking up a TA05 MS. I was wondering if anyone had one and what they can tell me about it. How much different in tuning is it from the tub version and how good it was. Any info would be great.
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ya-ta05ms.html
I have raced both competitively and in my eyes the TA05MS wins hands down in terms of handling, responsiveness to tuning adjustments and many other things that running a carbon chassis with upper deck gives you
you have access to the same tuning options, but I believe the MS responds to adjustments in a more meaningful way..
in terms of how good it was... i raced modified last year against a field of TRF and Xray chassis and I ended up winning one leg of our championship and coming 3rd overall (even after missing out on points for the first leg of the champs!).. the Xrays carried better speed through twisty corners like chicanes etc and the rear motor mounted TRF chassis were a bit more stable and didnt seem to suffer as much rear traction loss as I did with the TA05MS...
BUT!! if its setup right, it will drive right..
i'd highly recommend the TA05MS with the TRF416WE setup thrown at it (including the SHORT lightweight lower arms).. today i raced/practiced against a couple other cars and had no issues with traction or handling...
FYI... this is with tyres that were old to start with, then got run some more, then chucked out, picked up by a mate and handed to me for street bashing tyres.. they are showing canvas around the edges and a couple of the tyres have torn the rubber on the sidewall...
thats how good the 416WE setup on the TA05MS goes, even with really bad condition tyres
but thats my view anyways, check the TA05MS thread for more...
-Mark
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Bristol, England, United Kingdom
Posts: 4,857
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hey, is the static problem as pronounced on tarmac? And would it affect analogue servos/receivers as badly as digital ones? Or will my constant crashing be enough to ground the car XD
check the TA05MS thread here for discussion...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ya-ta05ms.html
I have raced both competitively and in my eyes the TA05MS wins hands down in terms of handling, responsiveness to tuning adjustments and many other things that running a carbon chassis with upper deck gives you
you have access to the same tuning options, but I believe the MS responds to adjustments in a more meaningful way..
in terms of how good it was... i raced modified last year against a field of TRF and Xray chassis and I ended up winning one leg of our championship and coming 3rd overall (even after missing out on points for the first leg of the champs!).. the Xrays carried better speed through twisty corners like chicanes etc and the rear motor mounted TRF chassis were a bit more stable and didnt seem to suffer as much rear traction loss as I did with the TA05MS...
BUT!! if its setup right, it will drive right..
i'd highly recommend the TA05MS with the TRF416WE setup thrown at it (including the SHORT lightweight lower arms).. today i raced/practiced against a couple other cars and had no issues with traction or handling...
FYI... this is with tyres that were old to start with, then got run some more, then chucked out, picked up by a mate and handed to me for street bashing tyres.. they are showing canvas around the edges and a couple of the tyres have torn the rubber on the sidewall...
thats how good the 416WE setup on the TA05MS goes, even with really bad condition tyres
but thats my view anyways, check the TA05MS thread for more...
-Mark
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ya-ta05ms.html
I have raced both competitively and in my eyes the TA05MS wins hands down in terms of handling, responsiveness to tuning adjustments and many other things that running a carbon chassis with upper deck gives you
you have access to the same tuning options, but I believe the MS responds to adjustments in a more meaningful way..
in terms of how good it was... i raced modified last year against a field of TRF and Xray chassis and I ended up winning one leg of our championship and coming 3rd overall (even after missing out on points for the first leg of the champs!).. the Xrays carried better speed through twisty corners like chicanes etc and the rear motor mounted TRF chassis were a bit more stable and didnt seem to suffer as much rear traction loss as I did with the TA05MS...
BUT!! if its setup right, it will drive right..
i'd highly recommend the TA05MS with the TRF416WE setup thrown at it (including the SHORT lightweight lower arms).. today i raced/practiced against a couple other cars and had no issues with traction or handling...
FYI... this is with tyres that were old to start with, then got run some more, then chucked out, picked up by a mate and handed to me for street bashing tyres.. they are showing canvas around the edges and a couple of the tyres have torn the rubber on the sidewall...
thats how good the 416WE setup on the TA05MS goes, even with really bad condition tyres
but thats my view anyways, check the TA05MS thread for more...
-Mark
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
this issue seems to be moreso with the stock tub chassis, rubber tyres and when using analogue radio/servo equipment
Tech Regular
just bought myself a ta05 car, didnt know that there was so many versions of the car! totally missed the R version (have been racing for many years but havent tried tamiya before)
got a regular kit that i was going to buy all the goodies for, but when reading here i`m not sure what to do really.. got some q`s:
1. what is the difference in handling between the std suspension and the reversed arm suspension? is it a must have for racing?
2. what would be the most economical, buy a brand new R version of the car or buy all the must have options to my existing std car?
I`m will be driving on a quite large asphalt track.
also: where can i find a store that has a ta05R in stock??? cant find it anywhere!
got a regular kit that i was going to buy all the goodies for, but when reading here i`m not sure what to do really.. got some q`s:
1. what is the difference in handling between the std suspension and the reversed arm suspension? is it a must have for racing?
2. what would be the most economical, buy a brand new R version of the car or buy all the must have options to my existing std car?
I`m will be driving on a quite large asphalt track.
also: where can i find a store that has a ta05R in stock??? cant find it anywhere!
Last edited by Hatebreed; 02-01-2009 at 11:17 AM.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (26)
There is no more TA05R, although you can still find new kits on eBay. The platform's current R model is the TA05IFS-R, with the inboard front suspension.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
Like Reen said, the standard 05 is actually a VERY capable car. For club racing you need just a few hop-ups. I'd say TRF shocks and universals are the main ones to have.
The main difference I've noticed with the lightweight suspension is the overall reaction of the car. It seems to be more crisp in it's movements. The standard suspension creates more grip and is stronger. The lightweight is more responsive and little easier to break. It's not brittle by any means, but easier to break than the standard suspension.
I would also say the 05-IFS-R is the way to go for the next step. But I wouldn't rush to get one. Run the standard car...you'll be pleasantly suprised.
The main difference I've noticed with the lightweight suspension is the overall reaction of the car. It seems to be more crisp in it's movements. The standard suspension creates more grip and is stronger. The lightweight is more responsive and little easier to break. It's not brittle by any means, but easier to break than the standard suspension.
I would also say the 05-IFS-R is the way to go for the next step. But I wouldn't rush to get one. Run the standard car...you'll be pleasantly suprised.
just bought myself a ta05 car, didnt know that there was so many versions of the car! totally missed the R version (have been racing for many years but havent tried tamiya before)
got a regular kit that i was going to buy all the goodies for, but when reading here i`m not sure what to do really.. got some q`s:
1. what is the difference in handling between the std suspension and the reversed arm suspension? is it a must have for racing?
2. what would be the most economical, buy a brand new R version of the car or buy all the must have options to my existing std car?
I`m will be driving on a quite large asphalt track.
also: where can i find a store that has a ta05R in stock??? cant find it anywhere!
got a regular kit that i was going to buy all the goodies for, but when reading here i`m not sure what to do really.. got some q`s:
1. what is the difference in handling between the std suspension and the reversed arm suspension? is it a must have for racing?
2. what would be the most economical, buy a brand new R version of the car or buy all the must have options to my existing std car?
I`m will be driving on a quite large asphalt track.
also: where can i find a store that has a ta05R in stock??? cant find it anywhere!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (26)
Exactly. All I ever did to my regular 05 was to add TRF shocks, front universals, and a spool. A buddy of mine drives it now, and routinely puts it in the middle of the RCGT A Main in a field of 30+ cars.