guinnes.s

hello guy's new in the forum and i would thank you if you could help me in find a setup for a very slippery track surface like this one

thanx

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Your talking about the Coliseum in Frederick Md.......................

Start with 2 hole pistons front and 3 hole rear with 60 weight oil. Yellow springs all around run the rear upper arms with 2m.m. spacers on them with the top front arms flats as can be. Also run the forward hole on the steering blocks for maximum steering with toe out in the front rear toe should be about 1-2 degs. no sway bars. That should get you very close.
I also ran a front one way, and I ran the chassis forward 1 shim front and rear. And believe it or not the B-3`s with a Hara or Blue Tamiya insert were better then the Premounted tires they sell there. I used to race there and had probably the fastest TA-05 there. I was only about 2-3 tenths slower than the X-ray cars. Just ask some of the guys there they can tell you.
Paul.......................

vi3tishduy

whats up guys. im about to get a ta05. :]. Would you say the titanium turn buckles are worth it? All im going to be doing with my TA05 is drifting so.. I'll just get some option parts later on and stuff but other than that. Its got a light weight carbon chassis, carbon fiber centerpiece, aluminum motor brace, aluminum steering, carbon fiber shock towers, titanium screws, aluminum servo mounts and.. trf gun metal shocks, aluminum suspension blocks, the aramid belts. and i think thats about it! what else do i need guys? any parts that you think get worn out quickly? I have a set of spare arms on the side also.

proceed5

Yes, IMO the Ti Turnbuckles are worth it, for it being lighter than the stock ones.
What about making the drivetrain as light as possible: the Aluminum Drive shafts, Aluminum or Titanum Axles, Aluminum Hubs, for drift = Front and Center One-ways and maybe a Spool on rear, aluminum suspension blocks...thats pretty much everything...

guinnes.s

here some photos of my ride

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

I traded some of my r/c equipment for a used TA05 today. It is in very good shape, however, it needs a complete front diff, new shocks and front universals.

Last, I would like to replace the screws with hex head screws if possible.

Most important to me is keeping the chassis TCS legal for as many classes as possible.

I'm sure that the part numbers and recommendations are mentioned here in this thread somewhere, but there are so many pages!

Thanks, and happy holidays!!!

tamiyarcracer

at the top of the link is a manual, and a hop up listing. Maybr it will answer most questions. The hex head screws are in Ti, Steel, or Alum from tamiya or any place.

ShrekNZ

I'd recomend CVD's at least up front as you will wear out drives, out drifting. Spool in the rear and some guys like one way, or spool in the front - or you can just tighten up the ball diffs.

proceed5

Hi Gappetto,
Not sure about TCS rules, but generally I would think it requires the use of only Tamiya Original Parts. So if you would want to buy hex screws, then once and for all please buy those Tamiya Blue Aluminum Hex screws (a bit more expensive than the Ti ones but are half the weight and are strong as well - just dont crash your car too often )
Aluminum Hex Screws Option part no.:
(a) 3x12 Countersunk hexhead - OP774; &
(b) 3x10 Countersunk hexhead - OP773; &
(c) 3x8 Countersunk hexhead - OP772; &
(d) 3x8 Round Hexhead - OP766; &
(e) 3x10 Round Hexhead - OP767; &
(f) 3x12 Round Hexhead - OP768.
[I think you add the numbers "53_ _ _" in front of the OP numbers quoted above and you will get the proper part numbers]
Or (g) the TA05 Ti screws set - part no. 49360

IMO, the following would be a "must have" in addition to the Lighter screws above:
Lightweight Carbon Lower Deck - 53893
Carbon Reinforced A Parts (Bulkhead) - 53894
Carbon Reinforced K Parts (Stiffener) - 53895
Front Carbon Damper Stay - 53845
Rear Carbon Damper Stay - 53846
Stabilizer Set (F & R) - 53842
Blue Color Aramid Belts - OP897 (these are smoother and more durable than the Black OP843 Aramid Belts)
Aluminum Suspension blocks - (please refer to instructions manual on page 6 - bottom left corner for the parts needed) [need some planning here because if you choose to use Reversible Suspension Arms, then please do some research on the Sus Blocks before buying]
For Universal Drive Shafts (use Aluminum ones) - please plan before purchase if use Long Reversible Arms - 48mm Standard Arms & Short Reversible Arms 46mm.
Tamiya has also got the Optional Blue Aluminum Turnbuckles for the TA05 (but i do not have the part numbers).

If you running Stock Class, maybe these would be useful driving aid-
Center One-Way 53841, Front One-way 53833.

The TA05's list of options would keep you busy for a very long time, enjoy it mate.
Cheers & Merry Christmas .

proceed5

Nice Ride!
A mixture of TopCad and 3Racing products.

MK_Arbiter

What tooth pinion should I use if I'm using a 10T motor and a 105 tooth spur?

juanfinesse

Had a killer run today at my club with the TA-05. Its so easy to dial in and change setup. Very adjustable, i sleep with my car .

Thanks all you guys for advice and tips.


Juan

proceed5

IMO, for a track with long straights - 10turn handwound Mods - timing advance at conservative level, I might select between 7.88 - 7.16 ratios (30t to 33t pinions on 105 spur) should be ok.
It very much depends on your Motor Revs and Batteries' punch.
For me, I would gear it to such that the motor achieves its highest possible revs (by listening to the motor scream) by the end of the straights just before the point where I would normally lift off throttle to prepare for corner entry.
Just my 2cents, Cheers & Merry Christmas .

MK_Arbiter

How hot is the motor after you run it with that ratio? I don't want to wreck my new motor. I have 32 and 33T pinions.

proceed5

Hot!!!
(did not check thermo probe for numbers), but I used Motor Heatsink with Fan blowing at the Endbell. Novak GTX esc was normal.
I ran my TA05 with LRP Fusion4 9x2 with p-brushes on 7.62ratio. Speed was Ok and had no problems with thermal or comm burns.
Also used Yokomo T6 8x1 with p-brushes on 8.14ratio, no problems, Speed was Fast.

Just for comparison:- yesterday I ran my 415MRE with a GTB3.5R geared to 10.57 (rollout ratio 18.87) with 2fans on motor heatsink and thermo Probe reads 45degrees C. GTB esc read 74.5degrees C. No thermalling. This was very fast.
Cheers and Merry Christmas