SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

The Xenon Racing Center Bulkhead was not available yet to be included in the picture, but it should be here tomorrow, I'll post another pic

Right now I'm working on sealing the edges of the chassis and the other graphite components.

Steve Wang

Dodgersfan

Hey Steve, what do you use to seal the graphite? Everyone says thin CA, but there must be something else out there.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Dont glue your fingers together again!

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

Steve, is the stepped spacer that goes under the motor mount available seperately??

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

there's always girly nail polish... pink should look nice
there's the "gel" superglue...but that leaves the white smoke effect :P

But I find thin CA to be the best! put one drop, let it roll as far as it can, then add another drop...all the while rotating the piece vertically of course and not touching the parts you've already CA'd. Since its thin, it'll dry really fast anyway.

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

If I use the outer hole on the stock rear uprights, how will that change the cars handling please??

Jam-ehz

iTrader: (6)

It basically makes the rear springs stiffer, as they'll be more upright compared to the other hole positions. This may result in a slightly looser car when on-power, because less weight will be put on the rear tires for traction.

I find it's best to start with the outer hole with any spring, and if I need a softer setting but my next-softest spring option is too soft, then I will start going down notches instead to get something in between.

axle182

iTrader: (18)

Are you meaning the holes on the shock tower???

If found the hole position on the tower to be more about intial turn in grip. If you straighten up (go further out in the holes) your shocks, you loose initial grip on that end of the car. If u use the outer holes on the rear, you should fine you have less rear end traction as u enter the corner. I usually used the middle holes on the rear, and on the front, i adjust to give the right amount of turn in. I had my front shocks on the centre hole, and on turnin, some corners it was great, and other it seemed to have oversteer, so i went out one hole and the car worked awesome.

if you werent talking about the shock tower, then let me know lol

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

rear uprights = hubs, sorry, been in the spray booth for a couple of hours.

I am happy I know what I get from moving the shocks in and out, just wanted to know about the camber link, making it longer should give less camber change, as I wanted a more progressive rear end.

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

I use CA (thin stuff) it goes on quick and dries quick. I usually don't do this until I have a full cup of coffee in me though And you can give it a tint of color by using sharpie (learned this from Dave Berger...old school Tamiya guys should know who he is )

Steve Wang

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

I use a thin CA, and after I have prepared the edges I apply the CA to a cotton Bud (Q-tip) and wipe that along the edges. It does a sweet job and it only goes were you wipe it so you don't end up with CA runs on the top or bottom of the carbon fibre. And you don't get the horrible stuff on you hands either !

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

who me? Never!...although I have glue tires to my fingers...hahaha

Steve Wang

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Not that I know of, but I'll check

Steve Wang

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

Moving the camber link to that position will raise the rear roll center. This normally makes the car a bit loose on entry and gives the rear more traction on exit. It depends on how the rest of the car is setup as to whether it will improve your cars handling or not.

dragracer72nova

iTrader: (114)

Hello,
Does anyone have a good carpet setup for the TA05?
I need to see if I can get my car to run better.
Dave