YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
#3031
Hello,
i drive the VBC (identical with Roche) shocks with Raceberry Bridges, short shocks are better. i made many test with springs but the best springs are:
Carpet: Yokomo pink/blue or blue/blue
Asphalt: HPI Silver/Silver
i have the VBC shocks rebuilt to drive with long springs, this is the best kombination, short shocks with long springs.
here is a report from petitrc:
It is now widely recognised that short big bore shocks are a step forward in electric Touring Cars. However most of them require the use of shorter springs which may not always be ideal. Shorter springs are, by nature, less linear than longer springs giving a more aggressive feel to your car. Some springs in particular have estabilshed themslves as a must have in certain conditions such as the HPI Silver on asphalt and the Yokomo Pink/Blue on carpet.
at BD7 you must cut the bottom connectors from the original Yokomo shocks to 13mm, make sure your shocks are 59.00mm long from top to bottom. then you will need to space them by 2mm from the arms and the shock tower in order to ensure enough clearance between the retainers and the lower arms.
Please note that this mod will only allow you to reach decent ride height with small tires only (LRP CPX, Ride Rex34 and Rex30 in particular).
i drive the VBC (identical with Roche) shocks with Raceberry Bridges, short shocks are better. i made many test with springs but the best springs are:
Carpet: Yokomo pink/blue or blue/blue
Asphalt: HPI Silver/Silver
i have the VBC shocks rebuilt to drive with long springs, this is the best kombination, short shocks with long springs.
here is a report from petitrc:
It is now widely recognised that short big bore shocks are a step forward in electric Touring Cars. However most of them require the use of shorter springs which may not always be ideal. Shorter springs are, by nature, less linear than longer springs giving a more aggressive feel to your car. Some springs in particular have estabilshed themslves as a must have in certain conditions such as the HPI Silver on asphalt and the Yokomo Pink/Blue on carpet.
at BD7 you must cut the bottom connectors from the original Yokomo shocks to 13mm, make sure your shocks are 59.00mm long from top to bottom. then you will need to space them by 2mm from the arms and the shock tower in order to ensure enough clearance between the retainers and the lower arms.
Please note that this mod will only allow you to reach decent ride height with small tires only (LRP CPX, Ride Rex34 and Rex30 in particular).
I use Mr. Roche Shocks and low Towers, but use Xray T4 Springs
now try to change the original spring retainer with Yokomo, seems to lower...
so I hope to be able to use Yokomo springs...
#3033
front and rear sway bars are different. for the front, you'll have to buy a few extra little parts separately.
#3034
Tech Apprentice
suspension mount and steering rack
Hi Guys...
I just purchase bd7, and want to ask you guys..is the colour of suspension mount and the steering come in lighter blue colour?
Mine come In lighter blue colour on ff suspension mount and one of the steering...
Is that correct? Or I get the old batch of production?
Thanks
I just purchase bd7, and want to ask you guys..is the colour of suspension mount and the steering come in lighter blue colour?
Mine come In lighter blue colour on ff suspension mount and one of the steering...
Is that correct? Or I get the old batch of production?
Thanks
#3035
That is normal and was the same with my kit.
#3036
Tech Regular
#3037
Hello racers! Im shoppin around to get my first 1/10 elecctric tc kit,to race around the track,Im planning to race VTA class.I come from 1/8 nitro racing background.The first tc kit that i was looking before was a awesomatix,sure enough i can see the quality,but as i do more research yokomo bd7 seems to have got my interest... my QUESTION is will the BD7 Ver.Rs will be capable enough being( fast,competetive,& durable) , or should i get the proper BD7?
#3038
My Bd7 coming the next days, i'm very happy,
#3039
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Hello racers! Im shoppin around to get my first 1/10 elecctric tc kit,to race around the track,Im planning to race VTA class.I come from 1/8 nitro racing background.The first tc kit that i was looking before was a awesomatix,sure enough i can see the quality,but as i do more research yokomo bd7 seems to have got my interest... my QUESTION is will the BD7 Ver.Rs will be capable enough being( fast,competetive,& durable) , or should i get the proper BD7?
Definitely one of the best tourers available, especially in the right hands
#3040
It really depends on how you wish to utilize the vehicle. I've heard good reviews about the ver. RS chassis, and if you read some of the previous pages to this thread you can see it has been used to compete in a variety of different classes, to find that only the front spool, the springs and minor shock absorber upgrades are in need of replacement. I've had some hard hits with my BD7, only to find that I've lost the king ping underneath the arm and stripped the thread on the knuckle. Besides, if you feel the need to upgrade anything on the Vers RS chassis, it's fully customizable to any of the available BD7 parts on the market.
Definitely one of the best tourers available, especially in the right hands
Definitely one of the best tourers available, especially in the right hands
thanks mate..also will i be using a 64 P pinion gear to run 21.5T motor,
and what parts do you suggest should i carry with me on my pit bag?
#3041
I mean what pinion gear and tooth should I be using if im running 21.5T.
Sorry to ask if its a dumb question.Its my first electric car,but thanks in
advance.
Sorry to ask if its a dumb question.Its my first electric car,but thanks in
advance.
#3042
the car comes with a 116 tooth 64 pitch gear which is too big for 21.5 motor. you'll need to buy a 92-96 tooth spur. preferably a 92 tooth if you can find it. 96 is more popular though and most hobby shop carries it.
your FDR will probably range from 3.4 to 3.8. so just get the appropriate pinion gears.
for spare parts, just get the arms, c-hubs, steering knuckles and bottom king pin screws. it's a somewhat durable car despite popular believes. nothing else should break in a small to medium crash.
#3043
What was mentioned, the plastic spool is pretty weak. There is a spare in the box, but when you brake the spool, chances are you lose the steel ring on the outdrives. Happened to me and a friend who runs a bd7 RS as well.
My breakages so far: The plastic spool and lost a steel ring, one c-hub, one steering block and lost a bottom king pin from the steering block.
C-hub and steering block went south after hitting a steel post at full speed, I'm not blaming the parts on that one, that was a hard hit. Made a big dent in my ego as well. I thought the steering block was ok, but the threads were damaged causing me to loose the kingpin later.
#3044
the bd7 is very picky on spur gear. so far only the Panaracer brand fits because it's the official brand. there might be other brands but i haven't figure out yet.
the car comes with a 116 tooth 64 pitch gear which is too big for 21.5 motor. you'll need to buy a 92-96 tooth spur. preferably a 92 tooth if you can find it. 96 is more popular though and most hobby shop carries it.
...
the car comes with a 116 tooth 64 pitch gear which is too big for 21.5 motor. you'll need to buy a 92-96 tooth spur. preferably a 92 tooth if you can find it. 96 is more popular though and most hobby shop carries it.
...
Last edited by ReneT; 11-18-2013 at 04:09 PM.
#3045
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
At SMA it was not un common to go down to about 3.0 gearing and about 3.3-3.4 for castle hill and WERC
if you need some more common gears then the Panaracer ones use the RW thin spurs, you will just have to find the ones that have 4 screws holes, as some of them only have 6 or 2 holes for srews.
Beth.