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Old 07-28-2009, 08:19 AM
  #17041  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
That's a pretty sound judgment. For different temperatures, I usually keep the same general setup. I only change shock oil and tires to work with the setup. Usually thinner shock oil for colder conditions, and thicker for warmer. I've been starting with Losi 50wt for the most part now, then working from there. I've always been a fan of the Novak 10.5 because it has a ton of bottom end grunt, but the rotors seem to go bad fast. The Trinity Duo 10.5 is VERY fast, just a little more RPM based. It's great if you nail the gearing on it, and the rotors are awesome too.

-Korey
Trinity Duo 10.5 it is
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:22 AM
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Korey, I am at a point with my TC where I tried almost every setup for the track I race and still I don't have the steering I am looking for, I tried two other cars and the steering they have compare to the TC is amazingly different with the same tires and track, the track is small and tight low to med traction is there any suggestion.
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by tomracing
can I just ask about this comment as i think that the wheel rate controls the load on the tire but shock oil thickness helps to control the amount of roll the body makes and how the tires moves over bumps. the very thick oil used in thailand is for the heat in silicone oil degrading it's viscosity.
I think you're right most of the part. But i would say that thicker shock oil just makes more traction simply. Yes, it works good in hot condition, but i use thicker oil when i need more traction and big open track layout. At the small/tight layout track, i generally use thinner (i.e: 30-50wt) to get quicker reaction. In this case i also change the piston from 2 holes to 3 holes. (3 hole piston has more pack when it gets faster input so works really well with thinner oil)

Thanks,
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:57 AM
  #17044  
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
I think you're right most of the part. But i would say that thicker shock oil just makes more traction simply. Yes, it works good in hot condition, but i use thicker oil when i need more traction and big open track layout. At the small/tight layout track, i generally use thinner (i.e: 30-50wt) to get quicker reaction. In this case i also change the piston from 2 holes to 3 holes. (3 hole piston has more pack when it gets faster input so works really well with thinner oil)

Thanks,
I have tested shock damping from extremely soft to extremely hard and you are correct about heavier oil. Generally, heavier oil slows down the chassis movement and weight transfer. But if I increase the damping to very hard, then traction would be lost intead. Is this consistent with your testing, Hiro?
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:25 AM
  #17045  
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so traction will be purely based on set up and tires when using thicker oil? been using thin oil in races on a fair track and been liking it. if my car's rear end tend to get loose should i switch to thinner oil? temp is around 80 to 90 F. suggestions please. i want to be fast but it seems using thinner oil makes my car roll a lot. but traction is superb. by the way, im using 3 hole pistons all around.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bigz
so traction will be purely based on set up and tires when using thicker oil? been using thin oil in races on a fair track and been liking it. if my car's rear end tend to get loose should i switch to thinner oil? temp is around 80 to 90 F. suggestions please. i want to be fast but it seems using thinner oil makes my car roll a lot. but traction is superb. by the way, im using 3 hole pistons all around.
It's hard to say. There could be another flaw in your setup causing the problem. We will have to see the whole setup (in detail) to really understand what your car might be doing. Then we can give better suggestions on what you can try.

-Korey
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
It's hard to say. There could be another flaw in your setup causing the problem. We will have to see the whole setup (in detail) to really understand what your car might be doing. Then we can give better suggestions on what you can try.

-Korey
im using 3 deg toe blocks at the rear with -2 camber and up front 2.5 deg -1 camber and 0deg in the steering. 2mm shims all around. shock pos up front 3 and 4 at the back. ride height is at 5 and 4 droop front and rear. spool for the front. tires are sorex 36 with med hara insert,.

thanks.
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Old 07-28-2009, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Joshy T
i drift a cyclone WCE, i want to use a open diff in front end to save my cvd's and decrease understeer, however, when i use one in the front, it always unscrews itself and becomes loose so all the power goes to just one wheel and the other stays still, is there any way i can fix this?
I run a center one way and a front diff in my drifter and have never had diff come lose? New nut and some locktight?
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bigz
im using 3 deg toe blocks at the rear with -2 camber and up front 2.5 deg -1 camber and 0deg in the steering. 2mm shims all around. shock pos up front 3 and 4 at the back. ride height is at 5 and 4 droop front and rear. spool for the front. tires are sorex 36 with med hara insert,.

thanks.
I would take some droop out first maybe... That will help control weight transfer a bit. If you are measuring with a droop gauge, about 5mm rear and 5.5 mm front is usually pretty good. Also maybe try a little bit of arm sweep ip front (larger toe block). It usually smooths out steering initially for me, but digs in a lot more around the apex. Also could try messing with ackerman. Running 2-3 mm instead of 4 on the steering will help smooth steering inputs a bit too.

-Korey
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:16 AM
  #17050  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I would take some droop out first maybe... That will help control weight transfer a bit. If you are measuring with a droop gauge, about 5mm rear and 5.5 mm front is usually pretty good. Also maybe try a little bit of arm sweep ip front (larger toe block). It usually smooths out steering initially for me, but digs in a lot more around the apex. Also could try messing with ackerman. Running 2-3 mm instead of 4 on the steering will help smooth steering inputs a bit too.

-Korey
im using 2mm for ackerman, how about the shocks. will thicker oil help? im using 3 hole pistons all around
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
...
I've been starting with Losi 50wt for the most part now, then working from there.
...
-Korey
I have a set of Team Associated Shock oils.
I have been told that there is no standard for shock oil (from one manufacturer to another).

Do you happen to know how the Losi 50wt maps onto the Team Associated shock oil?

Thanks
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:12 AM
  #17052  
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Originally Posted by bigz
im using 2mm for ackerman, how about the shocks. will thicker oil help? im using 3 hole pistons all around
I would do droop first (quicker adjustment to make ) and then try thicker shock oil.

-Korey
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:15 AM
  #17053  
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974
I have a set of Team Associated Shock oils.
I have been told that there is no standard for shock oil (from one manufacturer to another).

Do you happen to know how the Losi 50wt maps onto the Team Associated shock oil?

Thanks
Losi oil is generally a little thicker. I wouldn't worry about it too much though, as it's usually 2.5-5wt thicker from what I understand. As long as you use an oil brand which is a popular, mainstream brand... then you should be ok. AE 50-60wt should be a decent starting point as well.

-Korey
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Old 07-29-2009, 03:20 AM
  #17054  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I would do droop first (quicker adjustment to make ) and then try thicker shock oil.

-Korey
thanks korey.
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:54 AM
  #17055  
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Hi Korey,

Do u have a general setup for carpet track using rubbers tyres
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