Hot Bodies Cyclone
03-03-2009, 09:17 AM
You're the factory HB guy anyway. I shouldn't be answering these questions in the first place....
03-03-2009, 09:31 AM
But your right you shouldn't be on here answering questions. You should be trying to strap some rockets to your tamiya to try and get it up to the speed of me and Aaron!!!
03-03-2009, 09:36 AM
wow.
So your really running a Tamiya Clint? Hopefully its the original MSX and not the MRE.
So your really running a Tamiya Clint? Hopefully its the original MSX and not the MRE.
03-03-2009, 09:45 AM
Checked Japan HPI HB web site had posted stock level .
why only blue shock spring only .
other all sold out !?
& A302 still not have stock to now ?
why only blue shock spring only .
other all sold out !?
& A302 still not have stock to now ?
03-03-2009, 11:56 AM
Rolling up some lead putting it in shrinkrap and shoo-gooing it to the side of a battery has nothing the do with HB's.
But your right you shouldn't be on here answering questions. You should be trying to strap some rockets to your tamiya to try and get it up to the speed of me and Aaron!!!
But your right you shouldn't be on here answering questions. You should be trying to strap some rockets to your tamiya to try and get it up to the speed of me and Aaron!!!
03-03-2009, 01:24 PM
About moving the front arms , i have them all the way front , i will try to put them all the way back but on the rear , i have the arms all the way front so it will give me the shortest wheelbase if i put the front arms all the way back (wich you are recomending and i will try ) and the rear arms all the way front .
So should i move my rear arms or should i keep my arms as it is ?
So should i move my rear arms or should i keep my arms as it is ?
With relatively soft springs (silver,pink), I've been running 1.5mm spacers on a low-medium traction, tight, bumpy track. On flowing, smooth, med-high traction tracks I normally start with 1.0 spacers with harder springs (Tamiya White/Blue).
If you're looking for wholesale changes to something that works, try some of the setups posted online at hotbodiesonline, gearchart, petitrc, etc.
03-03-2009, 01:38 PM
In general, yes. But you may sometimes change it based on how the car feels and how much traction there is, or how smooth the track is, regardless of track layout. I'd suggest to play with that adjustment to see what the car feels like to you. Some guys at our track don't like the ackerman settings I run, because they have a different driving style. In the end, you have to tune for you.
Yes, move the front arms back for more mid corner steering. On the rear wheelbase, I find the car is more stable on throttle with it longer, and it tends to powerslide more if it's shorter. I normally run the stock setting on both the rear arms and hub (according to the TC instructions), unless I want to change that.
I was referring to the 1.0mm spacers you're running under your pivot blocks. I find that those have a bigger difference, as far as roll center adjustment goes, than the top link. I use the top link to fine tune the roll center and camber rise.
With relatively soft springs (silver,pink), I've been running 1.5mm spacers on a low-medium traction, tight, bumpy track. On flowing, smooth, med-high traction tracks I normally start with 1.0 spacers with harder springs (Tamiya White/Blue).
If you're looking for wholesale changes to something that works, try some of the setups posted online at hotbodiesonline, gearchart, petitrc, etc.
Yes, move the front arms back for more mid corner steering. On the rear wheelbase, I find the car is more stable on throttle with it longer, and it tends to powerslide more if it's shorter. I normally run the stock setting on both the rear arms and hub (according to the TC instructions), unless I want to change that.
I was referring to the 1.0mm spacers you're running under your pivot blocks. I find that those have a bigger difference, as far as roll center adjustment goes, than the top link. I use the top link to fine tune the roll center and camber rise.
With relatively soft springs (silver,pink), I've been running 1.5mm spacers on a low-medium traction, tight, bumpy track. On flowing, smooth, med-high traction tracks I normally start with 1.0 spacers with harder springs (Tamiya White/Blue).
If you're looking for wholesale changes to something that works, try some of the setups posted online at hotbodiesonline, gearchart, petitrc, etc.
But ive been told that going to less spacing under pivot block will tend to give more mid corner steering .
Wich one is true ?
03-03-2009, 02:54 PM
Newbie question here. Not new completely to touring cars, just havent run one in a few years. Anyway i picked up a cyclone s to get back into it and upgrade as i go. I want to start with the TC drivetrain i think so i am going to get a Prodiff for the back but i am thinking the 2 way for the front. I am running RCGT so its only with a 17.5. You guys see any problems with this? I know everyone says get unis but i would rather wait for the new ones. I know this is not really the right forum but the Cyclone S forum doesnt get much activity and doesnt really seem to be aimed at guys who like to tune. That is more than half the fun for me. Plus this car will be a TC when it grows up anyway.
03-04-2009, 10:22 AM
I need to know what Spur I should use for 13.5 and 17.5 so I can make sure the spur/pinion combos fit for appropriate gearing.Any suggestions? I was think a 100 would be safe.
03-04-2009, 10:54 AM
You're gonna run 17.5????
03-04-2009, 11:02 AM
Some guys run 96's, which again will work fine unless you need to gear way up.
With a 93 spur, the smallest pinion you can fit is a 41 tooth pinion for 4.91FDR (maybe even a 40 for 5.04) and you can gear up from there without running out of room if you have a torquey 17.5 on a large track.
(This is with the standard motor mount.)
03-04-2009, 11:06 AM
No its for rcgt. 17.5 is the spec motor. I will be running 13.5 mainly.Should be an interesting season.
I will just get a 96 and gear accordingly.Thanks for the heads up.
I don't know if you'll get enough gear into a 100 for a 17.5, unless you pick a high RPM motor.
Some guys run 96's, which again will work fine unless you need to gear way up.
With a 93 spur, the smallest pinion you can fit is a 41 tooth pinion for 4.91FDR (maybe even a 40 for 5.04) and you can gear up from there without running out of room if you have a torquey 17.5 on a large track.
(This is with the standard motor mount.)
Some guys run 96's, which again will work fine unless you need to gear way up.
With a 93 spur, the smallest pinion you can fit is a 41 tooth pinion for 4.91FDR (maybe even a 40 for 5.04) and you can gear up from there without running out of room if you have a torquey 17.5 on a large track.
(This is with the standard motor mount.)
03-04-2009, 11:13 AM
Im running 81/57 for a 17.5 in RCGT. so has anyone had any issues with the 2 way?
03-04-2009, 11:18 AM
The Tamiya gang will be out there sometime soon.
03-04-2009, 11:23 AM
I am running 88/48 with a DUO 17.5 with an SPX on setting 6.
Seems like 88 is the perfect size Spur for 17.5...
Seems like 88 is the perfect size Spur for 17.5...