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Old 03-31-2005, 05:37 AM   #1351
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I just use a bottoming tap to pre-thread the shock ends. Works better than a screw because it actually cuts threads in the plastic. After doing this they thread on really easily. The key is to use a bottoming tap so you can thread all the way to the bottom of the shock end.

Buboy, The spring steel hub are a good idea for the front.
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Old 03-31-2005, 05:49 AM   #1352
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Another option is to take a dremel and a spare screw, with a cutting wheel, cut along the shaft of the screw, just a tiny bit deeper than the threads. Then use it as a tap.

Hmm.. I am running an MX3S Airtronics synth radio, and a TC2 ESC.. my electronics are HUGE compared to what I see most running these days. Just curious if I can use any crystal reciever with that radio and therefore get a smaller one. Would hate to lose the synth functionality, but with my receiver sitting on top of the servo, thats starting to raise the CG of the car...

Buboy PM Wannabee (he posted back a page or 2) and order a p-dub bumper and a kydex bumper top plate.
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:15 AM   #1353
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ya you can get a novak one just make sure it for airtronics. they usally go for about 50 to 70 bucks.alot smaller but worth it ......


kydex bumper top plate???? whats that and are there any pictures of it ????? and where can i get 1
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:24 AM   #1354
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Alberto...

As I said above, PM Wannabee, he posted a few pages back, he can hook you up with one, not sure about pics though. I have bumpers and plates already ordered for myself.
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:44 AM   #1355
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cool thanks Martyn
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:46 AM   #1356
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Jwdca - I do the same thing as you, but I take it one step further. I put some associated green slime on the o-ring in the bottom of the cap when the shock is turned upside down. This seals oil in and air out better than a dry o-ring. You'll have less rebuilds (maybe only once every two months now...lol)

HTH
John

P.S. I've pre-threaded the shock ends with a 3mm button head screw and they're easy to get on.
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:51 AM   #1357
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Yeah, that's a good idea. I've heard that one before. I'll try it on the next rebuild.
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Old 03-31-2005, 06:59 AM   #1358
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Can someone please help with this?


Quote:
Originally posted by Midnight
Can anyone tell me what does the downstop do. I noticed some setup says to run 1 in front and 1 in the rear, then another says 2 in front and 5 in the rear. Whats the difference as far as how it effects the car?
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:04 AM   #1359
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It's called droop. If you do a search on it, i'm fairly certain you'll find an explination to this adjustment
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:04 AM   #1360
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Quote:
Originally posted by MartynD
Alberto...

As I said above, PM Wannabee, he posted a few pages back, he can hook you up with one, not sure about pics though. I have bumpers and plates already ordered for myself.
Get them here...Kevin's ordering page. $$ and messages go straight to him...he will hook you up.
http://www.2brainsdesign.com/2brains...rubberneck.htm
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:16 AM   #1361
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Yup. What John said.

Quick recap: droop affects the weight transfer front to rear and rear to front for the car, i.e.: unloading

When your car comes into a corner at speed and you let off the gas, the effects of momentum force the weight of the car in a particular direction. Like when you slam on your brakes in a real car the weight wants to shift towards the front. (Things in motion tend to stay in motion.) Removing droop in the rear allows less weight transfer and keeps more of the weight towards the rear of the car. This will cause the rear end to be more planted coming into corners and less 'wallowy' but will cost you some initial turn-in. The converse is true as well. More droop will allow the rear end on entry to a corner to move upwards and point/angle its weight towards the front of the car causing it to steer in tighter off power.

On the FK04 on carpet you normally want 0 uptravel/droop in the front. The FK04 was weight-biased towards the rear so it was always too planted for its own good. That's why we ran rake in the car 4.5mm/5.0mm (f/r) to help alleviate some of the push inherent in the design and in 4wd cars to begin with.

Generally, on the FK04, I was using 0mm uptravel in the front (with 56.5mm foams) which on the Hudy droop gauge was around 1. On the rear I was ususally also around 1. Make sure you measure from the bottom of the c-hub screw in the front and the bottom of the hub in the rear. Some people measure at the arm in the rear and so you'll see a measurement of 4 or 5 from these folks. I'm noticing that Hudy is now using the hub for their measurements in the rear, so you'll probably want to migrate to that as well.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by jdwca; 03-31-2005 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:25 AM   #1362
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdwca
Yup. What John said.

Quick recap: droop affects the weight transfer front to rear and rear to front for the car, i.e.: unloading

When your car comes into a corner at speed and you let off the gas, the effects of momentum force the weight of the car in a particular direction. Like when you slam on your brakes in a real car the weight wants to shift towards the front. (Things in motion tend to stay in motion.) Removing droop in the rear allows less weight transfer and keeps more of the weight towards the rear of the car. This will cause the rear end to be more planted coming into corners and less 'wallowy' but will cost you some initial turn-in. The converse is true as well. More droop will allow the rear end on entry to a corner to move upwards and point/angle its weight towards the front of the car causing it to steer in tighter off power.

On the FK04 on carpet you normally want 0 uptravel/droop in the front. The FK04 was weight-biased towards the rear so it was always too planted for its own good. That's why we ran rake in the car 5.0mm/4.5mm (f/r) to help alleviate some of the push inherent in the design and in 4wd cars to begin with.

Generally, on the FK04, I was using 0mm uptravel in the front (with 56.5mm foams) which on the Hudy droop gauge was around 1. On the rear I was ususally also around 1. Make sure you measure from the bottom of the c-hub screw in the front and the bottom of the hub in the rear. Some people measure at the arm in the rear and so you'll see a measurement of 4 or 5 from these folks. I'm noticing that Hudy is now using the hub for their measurements in the rear, so you'll probably want to migrate to that as well.

Hope this helps.
VERY well explained Jon!

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Old 03-31-2005, 07:25 AM   #1363
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Thanks I like the way you put that, it makes perfect sense now. Once again thanks for the info!!
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:28 AM   #1364
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No, problem.

[Takes a bow.]

Hey, Kevin, what's the deal with this kydex top plate? My curiosity is piqued now.

Also, can you make a kydex bottom plate that mirrors your bumper? I know Cuffs and a couple of other guys were making their own. The stock XRAY bumpers (impact and the other one) are pretty much worthless.

Last edited by jdwca; 03-31-2005 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:34 AM   #1365
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About the bottom plate...

I'd love something similar to the NTC3 RPM bumper for the Xray... saved me a fortune in parts for my TC4, granted the Xray is tougher, but where theres a wall theres a way....


I use green slime on all the shock O-rings, only issue I have is that I think it makes the bleeding abit more time consuming as the seal the greenslime makes is pretty good.
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