26Likes3 racing new F1
03-20-2013, 09:25 AM
#4186
What to do if not enough steering?
What springs do you use in the IFS the original ones looks to hard!
What springs do you use in the IFS the original ones looks to hard!
03-20-2013, 10:27 AM
#4187
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
*sauce the whole front wheel, and a bit of rear wheel.
original IFS spring isn't that hard, I just ended up removing all the spacers from it, the front ride height is around 4.5mm, but since it's rear wheel brake, it's fine (chassis won't scratch the ground).
03-20-2013, 06:01 PM
#4188
03-20-2013, 09:45 PM
#4189
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
I got the exotek IFS LOWER BRACE PLATE.
Why is that ball stud holes not a round hole? I found my plastic lower bulkhead is not yet broken, but (one of them) stripped. The ball stud is wobbling and easy to falling off.
Put the plate one, doesn't help that much.
Why not let the plate tighten the ball stud right at that horizontal location? and let the plastic bulkhead hold it vertically?
Why is that ball stud holes not a round hole? I found my plastic lower bulkhead is not yet broken, but (one of them) stripped. The ball stud is wobbling and easy to falling off.
Put the plate one, doesn't help that much.
Why not let the plate tighten the ball stud right at that horizontal location? and let the plastic bulkhead hold it vertically?
03-21-2013, 02:21 AM
#4190
it isn't round because the lower plate mounts aren't round. They are oblong with inserts to change the camber if the front suspension by widening or narrowing the lower arms. Because of this they are slotted to allow for all the different adjustment there. However the balls should thread in straight so you might want to double check that everything is lined up properly.
03-21-2013, 07:41 AM
#4191
Plate
I got the exotek IFS LOWER BRACE PLATE.
Why is that ball stud holes not a round hole? I found my plastic lower bulkhead is not yet broken, but (one of them) stripped. The ball stud is wobbling and easy to falling off.
Put the plate one, doesn't help that much.
Why not let the plate tighten the ball stud right at that horizontal location? and let the plastic bulkhead hold it vertically?
Why is that ball stud holes not a round hole? I found my plastic lower bulkhead is not yet broken, but (one of them) stripped. The ball stud is wobbling and easy to falling off.
Put the plate one, doesn't help that much.
Why not let the plate tighten the ball stud right at that horizontal location? and let the plastic bulkhead hold it vertically?
I agree with you. I have been working with the FGX since it came out and tried the IFS as soon as it was available also.
My first failure on the IFS front end was not the plastic breaking but the ballstud bending. It was suggested to use flat head screws from the top with thread on balls. This helped but a hard crash then broke the plastic.
I made a replacement for the ballstud mount from aluminum to not only be stronger but hold the ball mounts vertical. Worked well, until I broke the lower a-arm!!! But, that's what always happens when you strengthen a weak link!
The chamber adjusting inserts are not required when using the adjustable uppers anyway....
Ned
03-21-2013, 10:14 AM
#4192
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
it isn't round because the lower plate mounts aren't round. They are oblong with inserts to change the camber if the front suspension by widening or narrowing the lower arms. Because of this they are slotted to allow for all the different adjustment there. However the balls should thread in straight so you might want to double check that everything is lined up properly.
I'd prefer exotek to make that whole round and probably tight, and tell me to use specified insert to fit.
good new is that I've probably only stripped the insert, I can change a new one in spares, and go out with confidence again.
I've used the IFS for less than 20 mins, and maybe had a soft crash in the end of one race, and it's already stripped, and almost falling out.
(the black car following the white/blue car: http://youtu.be/_fjoNsesM-k?t=6m56s )
03-21-2013, 10:34 AM
#4193
Tech Rookie
Looks sweet.
03-21-2013, 10:44 AM
#4194
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
I agree with you. I have been working with the FGX since it came out and tried the IFS as soon as it was available also.
My first failure on the IFS front end was not the plastic breaking but the ballstud bending. It was suggested to use flat head screws from the top with thread on balls. This helped but a hard crash then broke the plastic.
I made a replacement for the ballstud mount from aluminum to not only be stronger but hold the ball mounts vertical. Worked well, until I broke the lower a-arm!!! But, that's what always happens when you strengthen a weak link!
The chamber adjusting inserts are not required when using the adjustable uppers anyway....
Ned
My first failure on the IFS front end was not the plastic breaking but the ballstud bending. It was suggested to use flat head screws from the top with thread on balls. This helped but a hard crash then broke the plastic.
I made a replacement for the ballstud mount from aluminum to not only be stronger but hold the ball mounts vertical. Worked well, until I broke the lower a-arm!!! But, that's what always happens when you strengthen a weak link!
The chamber adjusting inserts are not required when using the adjustable uppers anyway....
Ned
I'm taking it as a fun class, running it, under control, and don't want to give a hard fight, definitely no contact.
Good thing is that almost everyone is taking F1 class as a fun class. (top 2 guys are always there so a lot faster, but they've always been that fast, and they are probably taking it as a fun class as well).
problem is the car doesn't seem to stand this very well, which is sad.
----
good idea on screw + ball stud.
03-21-2013, 11:22 AM
#4195
FGX
I knew fgx is never a strong car, so I'm not going competitive with it.
I'm taking it as a fun class, running it, under control, and don't want to give a hard fight, definitely no contact.
Good thing is that almost everyone is taking F1 class as a fun class. (top 2 guys are always there so a lot faster, but they've always been that fast, and they are probably taking it as a fun class as well).
problem is the car doesn't seem to stand this very well, which is sad.
----
good idea on screw + ball stud.
I'm taking it as a fun class, running it, under control, and don't want to give a hard fight, definitely no contact.
Good thing is that almost everyone is taking F1 class as a fun class. (top 2 guys are always there so a lot faster, but they've always been that fast, and they are probably taking it as a fun class as well).
problem is the car doesn't seem to stand this very well, which is sad.
----
good idea on screw + ball stud.
Recently I went to a UF1 Midwest race in Toledo, OH, I'm in South Carolina. The first day I ran a TRG car and had a blast! Although I qualified in the "C" group (1st!) I had close races with a few guys and had to come from the back alot. One pretty fast guy didn't qualify, and was GONE!
On Sunday I ran the FGX, full independent, and qualified within a tenth or two, although it felt slower. Before the race even started I ran in the rear of a car stopped at the end of the front straight and although the car seemed ok, the lower a-arm broke a few laps in...
No F1 around here, hope to be able to run it back up North some this summer!
Ned
03-21-2013, 01:28 PM
#4196
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
thanks to accobra, I've just changed to use screw + ball stud as well.
reason: with exotek plate on, stock ball stud has 1mm less thread into the insert, making it even easier to strip the insert. (it was already easy to strip).
things used:
3racing 4.8mm hex ball stud
durango droop screws (screw with smallest head I can find).
durango droop screw's head make it as no taller than the flat area.
To fit better, need to remove a bit of these areas to avoid the screw.
Put ball studs on, just at the correct length (perfect with exotek 1mm plate)
there's already a hex between the bulkhead and the plate, just adding another one to secure the plate in place. (optional for this mod, but with the stock ball stud, an extra point to secure the plate in place is helpful).
Overall result of IFS.
*with exotek's plate design, I'd recommend use #1 or #2 inserts in the front, and #0 inserts in the rear.
when there's a front facing crash, exotek plate will contribute more on this configuration.
reason: with exotek plate on, stock ball stud has 1mm less thread into the insert, making it even easier to strip the insert. (it was already easy to strip).
things used:
3racing 4.8mm hex ball stud
durango droop screws (screw with smallest head I can find).
durango droop screw's head make it as no taller than the flat area.
To fit better, need to remove a bit of these areas to avoid the screw.
Put ball studs on, just at the correct length (perfect with exotek 1mm plate)
there's already a hex between the bulkhead and the plate, just adding another one to secure the plate in place. (optional for this mod, but with the stock ball stud, an extra point to secure the plate in place is helpful).
Overall result of IFS.
*with exotek's plate design, I'd recommend use #1 or #2 inserts in the front, and #0 inserts in the rear.
when there's a front facing crash, exotek plate will contribute more on this configuration.
03-21-2013, 01:42 PM
#4197
Nice Job!
thanks to accobra, I've just changed to use screw + ball stud as well.
reason: with exotek plate on, stock ball stud has 1mm less thread into the insert, making it even easier to strip the insert. (it was already easy to strip).
things used:
3racing 4.8mm hex ball stud
durango droop screws (screw with smallest head I can find).
durango droop screw's head make it as no taller than the flat area.
To fit better, need to remove a bit of these areas to avoid the screw.
Put ball studs on, just at the correct length (perfect with exotek 1mm plate)
there's already a hex between the bulkhead and the plate, just adding another one to secure the plate in place. (optional for this mod, but with the stock ball stud, an extra point to secure the plate in place is helpful).
Overall result of IFS.
*with exotek's plate design, I'd recommend use #1 or #2 inserts in the front, and #0 inserts in the rear.
when there's a front facing crash, exotek plate will contribute more on this configuration.
reason: with exotek plate on, stock ball stud has 1mm less thread into the insert, making it even easier to strip the insert. (it was already easy to strip).
things used:
3racing 4.8mm hex ball stud
durango droop screws (screw with smallest head I can find).
durango droop screw's head make it as no taller than the flat area.
To fit better, need to remove a bit of these areas to avoid the screw.
Put ball studs on, just at the correct length (perfect with exotek 1mm plate)
there's already a hex between the bulkhead and the plate, just adding another one to secure the plate in place. (optional for this mod, but with the stock ball stud, an extra point to secure the plate in place is helpful).
Overall result of IFS.
*with exotek's plate design, I'd recommend use #1 or #2 inserts in the front, and #0 inserts in the rear.
when there's a front facing crash, exotek plate will contribute more on this configuration.
I think you are correct about insert orientation, it should help get more support under the ball in the direction it will be stresssed in.
03-22-2013, 02:39 AM
#4198
Countersink the plastic spacer and you should get a really flush setup. I might just try that myself.
03-22-2013, 03:27 AM
#4199
Tech Apprentice
Hi,
I am just wondering if it would not be interesting to make the holes from the exotek plate even wider thant they currently are?
That way you could screw the ball studs all the way but the plastic inserts would still be reinforced by the exotek plate.
I am just wondering if it would not be interesting to make the holes from the exotek plate even wider thant they currently are?
That way you could screw the ball studs all the way but the plastic inserts would still be reinforced by the exotek plate.
03-22-2013, 10:27 AM
#4200
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
1. there's limited amount of inserts in a package, you need another set of IFS kit if you messed up and want more.
2. the inserts are only 2mm thick, countersunk 1mm out of it, there will be (at most) 1mm of plastic holding the whole point . easier to get the hole extended and make the part come lose.