Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
#5446
The Evicerator
#5447
Sim,
You're right that there has been a change in the front endbells from the original SS series to the EX series. They are interchangable except for the fact that you will need different shimming on that side of the motor... the EX series motors come with a shorter brass spacer than the original SS series motors.
The 5923 sintered rotor/endbell upgrade kit will fit your EX motor just fine though.
You're right that there has been a change in the front endbells from the original SS series to the EX series. They are interchangable except for the fact that you will need different shimming on that side of the motor... the EX series motors come with a shorter brass spacer than the original SS series motors.
The 5923 sintered rotor/endbell upgrade kit will fit your EX motor just fine though.
#5448
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Steve,
If you were going to run the new 17.5 in stock sedan, what gearing (FDR) would you be aiming for? I don't see this motor listed in the gearing or motor charts from Novak's website yet.
Also, would the 17.5 be closer to 27T motors? Exploring options for slower initial acceleration? Maybe a 15.5 would be best, but that isn't an option yet.
If you were going to run the new 17.5 in stock sedan, what gearing (FDR) would you be aiming for? I don't see this motor listed in the gearing or motor charts from Novak's website yet.
Also, would the 17.5 be closer to 27T motors? Exploring options for slower initial acceleration? Maybe a 15.5 would be best, but that isn't an option yet.
#5449
The Evicerator
Kn,
I really don't have any sort of gearing information for the 17.5 in a stock sedan... all I can do is make a guess as to what it would need.
Knowing that most people are running around 4.25-4.5 with the 13.5 I would wager that a 4.0 would realistically be about as much as you could get out of the current car designs.
The 17.5 should accellerate slower than the 13.5 should...but it's hard to guage "how slow" and "how comprable" to a 27 turn brushed motor... but I would have to guess that it would be close.
I really don't have any sort of gearing information for the 17.5 in a stock sedan... all I can do is make a guess as to what it would need.
Knowing that most people are running around 4.25-4.5 with the 13.5 I would wager that a 4.0 would realistically be about as much as you could get out of the current car designs.
The 17.5 should accellerate slower than the 13.5 should...but it's hard to guage "how slow" and "how comprable" to a 27 turn brushed motor... but I would have to guess that it would be close.
Steve,
If you were going to run the new 17.5 in stock sedan, what gearing (FDR) would you be aiming for? I don't see this motor listed in the gearing or motor charts from Novak's website yet.
Also, would the 17.5 be closer to 27T motors? Exploring options for slower initial acceleration? Maybe a 15.5 would be best, but that isn't an option yet.
If you were going to run the new 17.5 in stock sedan, what gearing (FDR) would you be aiming for? I don't see this motor listed in the gearing or motor charts from Novak's website yet.
Also, would the 17.5 be closer to 27T motors? Exploring options for slower initial acceleration? Maybe a 15.5 would be best, but that isn't an option yet.
#5452
The Evicerator
I enjoy the orange box!
Portal was great fun as was episode 2! Haven't really played TF2 too much but it seems interesting as well!
Portal was great fun as was episode 2! Haven't really played TF2 too much but it seems interesting as well!
#5455
The Evicerator
I've got a Golden Ticket! I've got a Golden Ticket!
#5458
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
How would one tell when it is time to replace a rotor?
with the 13.5 turn bonded rotor, I find the motor thermals if I go over about 35mm rollout (its rather hot ambient temp here in australia)
Drivetrain is free, nothing else is broken bent etc etc, so its pretty well down to the esc or motor...
also the car is slightly underweight...
thanks for your help
with the 13.5 turn bonded rotor, I find the motor thermals if I go over about 35mm rollout (its rather hot ambient temp here in australia)
Drivetrain is free, nothing else is broken bent etc etc, so its pretty well down to the esc or motor...
also the car is slightly underweight...
thanks for your help
#5459
The Evicerator
Ashley,
I don't know what kind of rules your club runs by... but I recommend to everyone that they replace their bonded rotor with a sintered rotor as soon as possible.... the performance and reliability gains are tremendous.
If your club does not allow you to run sintered rotors I would say that you might want to replace your bonded rotor with another bonded rotor at least once every three months or so. Depending on ambient temperatures, gearing, and other factors such as how hard you drive, etc this time frame may need to be shortened.
I don't know what kind of rules your club runs by... but I recommend to everyone that they replace their bonded rotor with a sintered rotor as soon as possible.... the performance and reliability gains are tremendous.
If your club does not allow you to run sintered rotors I would say that you might want to replace your bonded rotor with another bonded rotor at least once every three months or so. Depending on ambient temperatures, gearing, and other factors such as how hard you drive, etc this time frame may need to be shortened.
How would one tell when it is time to replace a rotor?
with the 13.5 turn bonded rotor, I find the motor thermals if I go over about 35mm rollout (its rather hot ambient temp here in australia)
Drivetrain is free, nothing else is broken bent etc etc, so its pretty well down to the esc or motor...
also the car is slightly underweight...
thanks for your help
with the 13.5 turn bonded rotor, I find the motor thermals if I go over about 35mm rollout (its rather hot ambient temp here in australia)
Drivetrain is free, nothing else is broken bent etc etc, so its pretty well down to the esc or motor...
also the car is slightly underweight...
thanks for your help