Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
09-12-2007, 02:55 PM
#5296
Boomer, I'm really not sure...depends on whether or not Elvis gets some new outfits in time for the race! 
09-14-2007, 09:34 PM
#5298
...um, ok?
09-16-2007, 07:50 AM
#5300
But this is a nice guild...that and the user manual always is usefull..
http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/brush...r_gearing.html
-Shookie <><
09-16-2007, 09:32 AM
#5301
Suspended
Steve-
Is the 13 mm rotor needed for 5 cell applications in touring car? If so, why. Thanks!
Is the 13 mm rotor needed for 5 cell applications in touring car? If so, why. Thanks!
09-16-2007, 10:17 AM
#5302
Steve, Have you done any testing with wire gauge and the benefits of using a larger gauge. The reason I ask is, I went to 12 gauge wire on all connections and noticed a large drop in motor and speed control temps. I geared the car at a 4.23 and was only hitting 160* at the end of a 5 minute run.
Is this something you have tested at novak and come to the same conclusion or was my car just working that well???
Is this something you have tested at novak and come to the same conclusion or was my car just working that well???
09-16-2007, 04:10 PM
#5303
Tech Fanatic
I've returned from the Tamiya "Mini Cooper War",.....just checking in! Hope all is well for everyone! LC
09-17-2007, 09:36 AM
#5304
09-17-2007, 09:42 AM
#5305
Chris,
I really wouldn't say that it's NECESSARY, but it comes highly recommended for certain applications!
As far as the "why"... here goes:
Generally with 5 cells you need to gear up to get the top end speed... this generally reduces not only the punch but the ability of the motor to brake as hard is it could before on a shorter gearing.
With the 13.0 mm rotor the magnet is a larger diameter resulting in higher magnetic strength... which translates to better ability to pull larger gears and to brake.
I also feel that the 13.0 mm rotor has a better natural drag brake feel to it when letting off the throttle and that can help in terms of drivability dramatically!
I really wouldn't say that it's NECESSARY, but it comes highly recommended for certain applications!
As far as the "why"... here goes:
Generally with 5 cells you need to gear up to get the top end speed... this generally reduces not only the punch but the ability of the motor to brake as hard is it could before on a shorter gearing.
With the 13.0 mm rotor the magnet is a larger diameter resulting in higher magnetic strength... which translates to better ability to pull larger gears and to brake.
I also feel that the 13.0 mm rotor has a better natural drag brake feel to it when letting off the throttle and that can help in terms of drivability dramatically!
09-17-2007, 09:45 AM
#5306
HV,
We recommend to all our team drivers that they use 12 gauge wires especially in modified racing in touring cars... it generally helps fascilitate getting the most power out of the system as possible.
I can see your temperatures running lower with your system because
A.) the 12 AWG offers less resistance... resistance generally gets translated into heat.
B.) The larger wires also can act as heat sinks to syphon heat away from the motor or ESC more efficiently.
We recommend to all our team drivers that they use 12 gauge wires especially in modified racing in touring cars... it generally helps fascilitate getting the most power out of the system as possible.
I can see your temperatures running lower with your system because
A.) the 12 AWG offers less resistance... resistance generally gets translated into heat.
B.) The larger wires also can act as heat sinks to syphon heat away from the motor or ESC more efficiently.
Steve, Have you done any testing with wire gauge and the benefits of using a larger gauge. The reason I ask is, I went to 12 gauge wire on all connections and noticed a large drop in motor and speed control temps. I geared the car at a 4.23 and was only hitting 160* at the end of a 5 minute run.
Is this something you have tested at novak and come to the same conclusion or was my car just working that well???
Is this something you have tested at novak and come to the same conclusion or was my car just working that well???
09-17-2007, 10:52 AM
#5307
Is there a set length that the cap can be away from the ESC before it is nolonger effective. And if the distance is increased is there a way to offset the negative affects like using larger gauge wire??? Also is there any benifits to using to capacitor boards?
09-17-2007, 10:56 AM
#5308
Well, the maximum length with 16 awg wires is the length that the capacitors come presoldered with.
It is possible to jump up to 14 or 12 to go longer but I really don't have any data on what lengths are permissable and what lengths are not.
It might not sound like much but I would say about another inch with 14 and another inch longer on top of that with 12 might be ok. Going longer than that has never seemed to work well at all.
It is possible to jump up to 14 or 12 to go longer but I really don't have any data on what lengths are permissable and what lengths are not.
It might not sound like much but I would say about another inch with 14 and another inch longer on top of that with 12 might be ok. Going longer than that has never seemed to work well at all.
09-20-2007, 05:03 PM
#5310
Hey Steve again,
I just got my GTX from another user on this forum... and it is not going in reverse. I programmed it as it says in the directions, where I hold the setup button with transmitter on, turn on the GTX, wait for solid red to pull the throttle and hold until the light turns green, and then pushed to full brake until the light blinked green.
I know I just explained what you already know to you, but i wanted to make sure you knew I knew I was setting it up correctly (hopefully).
I read that the GTX has reverse a few places, and am not sure why this one isn't working. It registers that the brake is on by the blinking green light. Is this a common problem?
Thanks a ton!
I just got my GTX from another user on this forum... and it is not going in reverse. I programmed it as it says in the directions, where I hold the setup button with transmitter on, turn on the GTX, wait for solid red to pull the throttle and hold until the light turns green, and then pushed to full brake until the light blinked green.
I know I just explained what you already know to you, but i wanted to make sure you knew I knew I was setting it up correctly (hopefully).
I read that the GTX has reverse a few places, and am not sure why this one isn't working. It registers that the brake is on by the blinking green light. Is this a common problem?
Thanks a ton!