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Old 03-10-2010, 09:09 PM
  #7081  
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First Charlie, now Scuba...... I bet the pumpkins wont even be orange this year
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:24 PM
  #7082  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
First Charlie, now Scuba...... I bet the pumpkins wont even be orange this year
yup, all the things that make us recognise orange don't exist there. Charlie and steve are the only novak guys I think I have ever actually seen at the track.....

Steve,

Sent you a message on myspace. So my question is, in 17.5 / 13.5 how much of a difference is there with the 12.3mm 1300+ rotors? Does this rotor also work well for mod?
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:38 PM
  #7083  
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Sorry I don't get onto myspace all that much anymore!

The 1300+ rotors make a big difference if you've got a weak rotor... especially in the "limited" classes like 17.5/13.5.

The rotors work well in modified as well.
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:09 AM
  #7084  
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Steve,

Cheers for the info.

MiCk B. :-)




Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
Hi Mick,

The gap isn't something to really worry about, it's basically just a tollerance issue with the sleeve that plays no performance role.

If you are concerned about hte sleeve spinning you can simply slide the sleeve off and put a strip of decal down on the lamination to tighten up the interference fit when you slide the sleeve back on.

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Old 06-01-2010, 02:40 PM
  #7085  
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Can anyone tell me what the motor timing is set at on an old Novak ss 13.5t motor please? The reason i ask is i have a new generation software driven speedo and don't want to cook the motor. I also notice that if i loosen the endbell screws there is a small amount of adjustment any ideas how much in degrees? without timing marks in running blind.
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Old 06-01-2010, 03:09 PM
  #7086  
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Originally Posted by BILKO1
Can anyone tell me what the motor timing is set at on an old Novak ss 13.5t motor please? The reason i ask is i have a new generation software driven speedo and don't want to cook the motor. I also notice that if i loosen the endbell screws there is a small amount of adjustment any ideas how much in degrees? without timing marks in running blind.
Those motors are set to 30 degrees internally. I would just leave the timing there... there is a lot of mis-information about what "zero" degrees of timing is in a brushless motor and no one actually runs their motor with zero timing. Generally, the novaks are among the lowest timed motors.
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Old 06-01-2010, 03:16 PM
  #7087  
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
Those motors are set to 30 degrees internally. I would just leave the timing there... there is a lot of mis-information about what "zero" degrees of timing is in a brushless motor and no one actually runs their motor with zero timing. Generally, the novaks are among the lowest timed motors.
Thanks Steve, i found timing info for the Ballistic motors but not the SS ones.
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:54 AM
  #7088  
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hi, steve ,

can you tell where i can read how to change the bearing on the ballistic novak motors , and whats the best tool on the market to do this,

thks

mike keyes
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Old 07-16-2011, 05:01 PM
  #7089  
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Hi Steve...I need some help

How can I get my car to rotate more? With Solaris Hard spec tires my car rotates OK, but I raced with the Solaris SP40 and the rear end seems to be more stuck.

I attached my setup sheet...I was thinking of trying laying the rear shocks down 1 hole to #2 and using less camber in the rear, maybe -1.5 in the rear.

For the T3 2011, which way do Ackermann spacers work? More shims = more rotation? I'm running 1mm Ackerman spacers.

One last question...in the future when I bolt in a mod motor - do you hit the brakes at the end of the straight for the turn in or do you just let off and turn in? If you don't use the brakes how far into the straight do you keep on the throttle?
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