Steve Weiss

One of the big tricks was flipping diffs/gears around so that the belts didn't drag on the sides of the pullies but it sounds like you've gone through this already.

Sometimes that tension arm would sort of tweak to one side or the other, causing the idler pully to force the belt one way or another.

I remember I used to run a 0.020" shim between the inside of the chassis and the tension arm where it was attached to the chassis for tension adjustment.

This tweaked the arm back just enough so that the belt ran true.

Hope this helps!

buffalobill989

iTrader: (50)

you are the greatest. turns out that when ui crimped my new lead wires to the rec i didnt quite get the wire in goo enough & it pulled out. fixed and all is well

Jeremy Otis

Hello Steve,

Forgive me if this question has already been asked.

Will we see a timing advance 4 cell speedo in the near future? If so when? I love Novak but am tired of getting out motored every where I run...

tmunno

iTrader: (1)

Steve, Thank you for the help at the Snowbirds. Everything got back to us in time to make the state race at K-Raceway. Lynn had no problems at all with esc or motors. Thanks again and see you guys next year.

linger

iTrader: (1)

Hey Steve,
A lot of the new high timing speedos work best with motors at 0 deg timing
How do I set my Novak motors to 0 deg timing? Got pics on how to align the timing ring?

-ling

Steve Weiss

We're always working on something around here! I can't say much more than that unfortunately!

No problem! Glad everything's running well for you now!

Well, it's a bit of a mis-nomer by saying "zero timing"... what most people refer to as "zero timing" is actually just lower timing.

If you leave your timing on your novak motor stock you should be fine. If however you've played aorund with it, setting the timing at approximately half way in the range or all the way clockwise will be safe with most of the new timing ESCs.

I will see if I can find my pictures around here somewhere... they seem to get posted on a regular basis!

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Did you ask this cause I brought it up....

nunga

Thanks for the help steve, I posted it off today.

Graeme.

MiCk B

iTrader: (2)

Here's some pics of motor timing that Steve posted before:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/5385491-post6716.html

MiCk B. :-)

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Steve,

Hi, Im from the Philippines and would like to ask some questions...
I have been running two XBR BL systems with EX motors for a over a year
now and found them to be a big leap compared to brushed motors that
I was using back 2007. Theyre both installed in a couple of touring cars,
10.5 and 13.5. Although it still uses bonded rotors, I am really satisfied
with the performance and the smoothness of the motors, specially when
Im just coasting or just simply pushing the car from stationary, it feels it
doesnt have a motor installed. Probably because of the bonded rotor.

This year I bought an LRP Sphere with 4.5 Vector motor for a new TC.
I was dissapointed quickly about the Vector motor. Its just so hard to turn
the shaft, its like a modified brushed motor. Installed it and it was fast.
Im thrilled about the performance but sad that its not that smooth compared
to my EX motors. Im really turned-off by the engine brake effect.
My autobrake from the ESC is turned off.

I want to change motor and sell the 4.5. Just want to ask you if the Novak
Velocity Light motor is the right motor for me. Im after the smoothness
of the EX motors. I went to your website and checked the specs.
It's sintered and has lower KW/RPM rating compared to standard
Velocity motors. It's fine by me if its slower as long as it's close to the
smoothness of the EX motors but faster. The Velocity Light 5.5 is what
I want to buy. Or should I get the standard Velocity 5.5?

Please help me decide.

Steve Weiss

Well the light version motors will definately be smoother than the "R" versions.

They have a tendancy to run a little bit hotter than the R versions though as well.

I don't think you'd be disappointed with either motor...but the Light versions are definately the smoother of the two.

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Thanks man, your the best! Ill be getting the Light versions.
Last question, how can I shorten the sensor wires of Velocity light motors?
Can I just open the rear endbell, unsolder the wires, shorten it and
resolder the wires again?

Steve Weiss

I don't advise trying to shorten the sensor harness on the motor... I would just zip tie it shorter.

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Ok, Ill just tuck it in somewhere. Thanks man!ü

F. Mendoza

iTrader: (79)

Knock knock!