Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
#5476
The Evicerator
Joe's right,
Now all GTB's (not including 4 cell GTBs) come with LiPo cut off... some are standard...some are spread spectrum.
Now all GTB's (not including 4 cell GTBs) come with LiPo cut off... some are standard...some are spread spectrum.
#5477
Ok Steve, I was'nt aware that it came w/li-po cutoff and not be spread spektrum, thanks for the clarification.:nod
#5479
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (55)
So, what am I missing here?
Mitch
#5480
The Evicerator
Mitch,
Shoot me an email at [email protected] with all the details (motor serial number, etc) and I will see what I can dig up on monday
Shoot me an email at [email protected] with all the details (motor serial number, etc) and I will see what I can dig up on monday
Well, the reason I am confused is because I ordered a remanuf SS 13.5 (S3413) from the Novak website and it came with a black rotor. The description states: "The remanufactured SS13.5 Brushless Motor features Novak’s high-strength Neodymium Sintered Rotor, ....".
So, what am I missing here?
Mitch
So, what am I missing here?
Mitch
#5482
The Evicerator
Hahah thanks patrick! I hope everything is going well for you guys down there!
#5483
GTB SS13.5 Overheating problems
Steve
I'm having trouble with my SS13.5 overheating at the 5 minute mark in a 6minute heat. The ESC (GTB) shuts down for a while (about 30 secs) then when the motor has cooled a bit it will start again or if when it stops you switch it off then back on again will will go. The motor is getting to about 110 to 120 F and the ESC is at around 40 to 60 F.
I'm running the same FDR as the guys i am racing against who are also using the same combination ESC and motor and they are at about the same temp.
Changing the FDR did not fix the problem either.
Can you give me any ideas on whats causing this problem.
I'm having trouble with my SS13.5 overheating at the 5 minute mark in a 6minute heat. The ESC (GTB) shuts down for a while (about 30 secs) then when the motor has cooled a bit it will start again or if when it stops you switch it off then back on again will will go. The motor is getting to about 110 to 120 F and the ESC is at around 40 to 60 F.
I'm running the same FDR as the guys i am racing against who are also using the same combination ESC and motor and they are at about the same temp.
Changing the FDR did not fix the problem either.
Can you give me any ideas on whats causing this problem.
#5484
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
13.5 to 10.5
Hi Steve, We use the xbr / ex 13.5 combo at our track with a fdr of 5.03 and it works great but we have just put a 10.5 combo in our second car ( tc5) and wonder what fdr would work best bearing in mind what we use with the 13.5 . Both run bonded rotors . Thanks in advance
#5485
The Evicerator
Recaro,
Sounds like you might have some over-sensitive temperature shut down issues on your hands there.
Make sure that the motor is actually 110-120... take the temp on the black plastic or put a sticker on the aluminum so that you get an accurate reading with an IR temp meter.
If it still persists you can remove the blue sensor wire from the harness and continue monitoring the temperatures... anything under 170 should be ok.
If shut downs still persist I recommend sending the system in to us along with a detailed description of the problem so that we can take a thourough look at it.
Sounds like you might have some over-sensitive temperature shut down issues on your hands there.
Make sure that the motor is actually 110-120... take the temp on the black plastic or put a sticker on the aluminum so that you get an accurate reading with an IR temp meter.
If it still persists you can remove the blue sensor wire from the harness and continue monitoring the temperatures... anything under 170 should be ok.
If shut downs still persist I recommend sending the system in to us along with a detailed description of the problem so that we can take a thourough look at it.
Steve
I'm having trouble with my SS13.5 overheating at the 5 minute mark in a 6minute heat. The ESC (GTB) shuts down for a while (about 30 secs) then when the motor has cooled a bit it will start again or if when it stops you switch it off then back on again will will go. The motor is getting to about 110 to 120 F and the ESC is at around 40 to 60 F.
I'm running the same FDR as the guys i am racing against who are also using the same combination ESC and motor and they are at about the same temp.
Changing the FDR did not fix the problem either.
Can you give me any ideas on whats causing this problem.
I'm having trouble with my SS13.5 overheating at the 5 minute mark in a 6minute heat. The ESC (GTB) shuts down for a while (about 30 secs) then when the motor has cooled a bit it will start again or if when it stops you switch it off then back on again will will go. The motor is getting to about 110 to 120 F and the ESC is at around 40 to 60 F.
I'm running the same FDR as the guys i am racing against who are also using the same combination ESC and motor and they are at about the same temp.
Changing the FDR did not fix the problem either.
Can you give me any ideas on whats causing this problem.
#5486
The Evicerator
Broady,
I'd say with a 10.5 with the bonded rotor I'd recommend starting out pretty conservatively with a 6.25 FDR and maybe working your way up baring in mind to make sure the temperature of the motor stays under 170 degrees F.
I'd say with a 10.5 with the bonded rotor I'd recommend starting out pretty conservatively with a 6.25 FDR and maybe working your way up baring in mind to make sure the temperature of the motor stays under 170 degrees F.
Hi Steve, We use the xbr / ex 13.5 combo at our track with a fdr of 5.03 and it works great but we have just put a 10.5 combo in our second car ( tc5) and wonder what fdr would work best bearing in mind what we use with the 13.5 . Both run bonded rotors . Thanks in advance
#5489
The Evicerator
There that Steven Weiss guy goes stepping on my shoes again!