Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
04-03-2008, 07:51 AM
#6031
Dan,
There are instances when being significantly undergeared can cause damage to a motor.
Most of the time I would say this would occur with the 3.5 and 4.5 turn motors where if geared too low, can put tremendous strain on the rotor causing eventual rotor failure.
Also, too low of a gearing with this low wind motors can also cause high heat just as overgearing can ... a sign that you might be undergeared is if your esc is cool and the motor is hot... generally in most applications if gearing is correct ESC and motor temps are relatively close.
There are instances when being significantly undergeared can cause damage to a motor.
Most of the time I would say this would occur with the 3.5 and 4.5 turn motors where if geared too low, can put tremendous strain on the rotor causing eventual rotor failure.
Also, too low of a gearing with this low wind motors can also cause high heat just as overgearing can ... a sign that you might be undergeared is if your esc is cool and the motor is hot... generally in most applications if gearing is correct ESC and motor temps are relatively close.
04-03-2008, 08:41 AM
#6033
Hey Ray,
I would say mid 4's to start out with and go from there.
I would say mid 4's to start out with and go from there.
04-03-2008, 10:38 AM
#6037
04-03-2008, 10:45 AM
#6038
Eagle Racing makes a rotor fan and endbell kit for the Novak motors. I had an order coming in from RCMarket, so I decided to pick one up. I'm not using the fan, but the new endbell felt much lighter, and has some cool looking machining on the front, as well as some vents cut into the side (not shown). I don't know if/how it will help with cooling, but it looks pretty great on the motor.
Comparing this endbell to the other "ribbed" one from Novak, it appears to be entirely machined by them, and not a modifed Novak version. It comes with a bearing as well. Impressive work for sure. Not sure if you guys knew about it or not. I guess you've officially been "hopped up."
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=2709 (there's a version for the 13mm rotor too)
Comparing this endbell to the other "ribbed" one from Novak, it appears to be entirely machined by them, and not a modifed Novak version. It comes with a bearing as well. Impressive work for sure. Not sure if you guys knew about it or not. I guess you've officially been "hopped up."
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=2709 (there's a version for the 13mm rotor too)
04-03-2008, 05:12 PM
#6040
Ok this sounds dumb but just out of couriosity will a gtb still work if a few of the fets are melted but not too bad?
04-03-2008, 05:31 PM
#6041
04-03-2008, 10:34 PM
#6042
WHAT HAPPENDED?
Steve,
I have a question, I'm not sure if it is a brushless issue of a Lipo issue but I thought I'd ask just in case you have heard this happen.
While me and my son were running the GTB with the 10.5 motor with the Orion Lipo the negative wire soldered to the bullet connector to the battery literally melted the solder and the wire disconnected.
My son running the same combo with a different car had the same thing happen but on the positive wire, again the solder melted and came completely out of the bullet connector. Both times nothing on the chassis was close to touching the wire connector. No damage or short or overheating anywhere on the electronics. The motor was 110 F. as was the ESC. I resoldered the wire back to the bullet connector and everything was fine. I don't know if this is a battery or a brushless issue, but if you have any ideas what would cause this. The wires are the ones that came with the Novak system and the solder is Radio Shack brand which I have been using for years with no problems in the past.
Not really related but I remember when low turn brushed motors were having wires coming unsolder because of heat or too many amps flowing through a a small gage wire. This is not the case with my cars but I don't know if there is some commonality there or not?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
I have a question, I'm not sure if it is a brushless issue of a Lipo issue but I thought I'd ask just in case you have heard this happen.
While me and my son were running the GTB with the 10.5 motor with the Orion Lipo the negative wire soldered to the bullet connector to the battery literally melted the solder and the wire disconnected.
My son running the same combo with a different car had the same thing happen but on the positive wire, again the solder melted and came completely out of the bullet connector. Both times nothing on the chassis was close to touching the wire connector. No damage or short or overheating anywhere on the electronics. The motor was 110 F. as was the ESC. I resoldered the wire back to the bullet connector and everything was fine. I don't know if this is a battery or a brushless issue, but if you have any ideas what would cause this. The wires are the ones that came with the Novak system and the solder is Radio Shack brand which I have been using for years with no problems in the past.
Not really related but I remember when low turn brushed motors were having wires coming unsolder because of heat or too many amps flowing through a a small gage wire. This is not the case with my cars but I don't know if there is some commonality there or not?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
04-04-2008, 07:59 AM
#6043
Maxepower,
Brushless systems are capable of pulling lots of current and it just sounds like to me for whatever reason that joint that you have -- lipo bullet connector, wire bullet connector, and solder joint -- is having a hard time handling the current and is heating up.
Do you have access to different solder? How is the solder joint itself...? A picture is worth a thousand words... If you want maybe you can bring it by the shop or to me at the track one day and I can check it out and maybe re-solder it for you...?
Brushless systems are capable of pulling lots of current and it just sounds like to me for whatever reason that joint that you have -- lipo bullet connector, wire bullet connector, and solder joint -- is having a hard time handling the current and is heating up.
Do you have access to different solder? How is the solder joint itself...? A picture is worth a thousand words... If you want maybe you can bring it by the shop or to me at the track one day and I can check it out and maybe re-solder it for you...?
Steve,
I have a question, I'm not sure if it is a brushless issue of a Lipo issue but I thought I'd ask just in case you have heard this happen.
While me and my son were running the GTB with the 10.5 motor with the Orion Lipo the negative wire soldered to the bullet connector to the battery literally melted the solder and the wire disconnected.
My son running the same combo with a different car had the same thing happen but on the positive wire, again the solder melted and came completely out of the bullet connector. Both times nothing on the chassis was close to touching the wire connector. No damage or short or overheating anywhere on the electronics. The motor was 110 F. as was the ESC. I resoldered the wire back to the bullet connector and everything was fine. I don't know if this is a battery or a brushless issue, but if you have any ideas what would cause this. The wires are the ones that came with the Novak system and the solder is Radio Shack brand which I have been using for years with no problems in the past.
Not really related but I remember when low turn brushed motors were having wires coming unsolder because of heat or too many amps flowing through a a small gage wire. This is not the case with my cars but I don't know if there is some commonality there or not?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
I have a question, I'm not sure if it is a brushless issue of a Lipo issue but I thought I'd ask just in case you have heard this happen.
While me and my son were running the GTB with the 10.5 motor with the Orion Lipo the negative wire soldered to the bullet connector to the battery literally melted the solder and the wire disconnected.
My son running the same combo with a different car had the same thing happen but on the positive wire, again the solder melted and came completely out of the bullet connector. Both times nothing on the chassis was close to touching the wire connector. No damage or short or overheating anywhere on the electronics. The motor was 110 F. as was the ESC. I resoldered the wire back to the bullet connector and everything was fine. I don't know if this is a battery or a brushless issue, but if you have any ideas what would cause this. The wires are the ones that came with the Novak system and the solder is Radio Shack brand which I have been using for years with no problems in the past.
Not really related but I remember when low turn brushed motors were having wires coming unsolder because of heat or too many amps flowing through a a small gage wire. This is not the case with my cars but I don't know if there is some commonality there or not?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
04-04-2008, 10:36 AM
#6044
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Maxepower,
Brushless systems are capable of pulling lots of current and it just sounds like to me for whatever reason that joint that you have -- lipo bullet connector, wire bullet connector, and solder joint -- is having a hard time handling the current and is heating up.
Do you have access to different solder? How is the solder joint itself...? A picture is worth a thousand words... If you want maybe you can bring it by the shop or to me at the track one day and I can check it out and maybe re-solder it for you...?
Brushless systems are capable of pulling lots of current and it just sounds like to me for whatever reason that joint that you have -- lipo bullet connector, wire bullet connector, and solder joint -- is having a hard time handling the current and is heating up.
Do you have access to different solder? How is the solder joint itself...? A picture is worth a thousand words... If you want maybe you can bring it by the shop or to me at the track one day and I can check it out and maybe re-solder it for you...?
04-04-2008, 11:07 AM
#6045
Thanks for the input Overflow!
The more connections you have the more resistance you will accumulate and this leads to voltage drop/less efficiency/more heating... which can be contributing to the leads unsoldering at this point.
The more connections you have the more resistance you will accumulate and this leads to voltage drop/less efficiency/more heating... which can be contributing to the leads unsoldering at this point.