Barracuda from Alex racing
#1111
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Originally posted by Cole Trickle
There are some info on the frontpage of this site: www.speedtechrc.com
Dont know if thats what your looking for, though...
There are some info on the frontpage of this site: www.speedtechrc.com
Dont know if thats what your looking for, though...
wasn't up yesterday I went to the site...
Thanks..!!
#1112
Hmm, looks like in the SpeedTech specs it comes with a front one way already. Good price too.
Whats the benifit of getting all the Square aluminium bits? surely they weigh more and instead of breaking they'll bend and you may not notice you have a wonky car. Although they do look nice
I'm very very tempted to get a kit now, even selling some pc bits to afford it Not sure where to get it from though, I'd go for SpeedTech if only there was a choice of colours.
Whats the benifit of getting all the Square aluminium bits? surely they weigh more and instead of breaking they'll bend and you may not notice you have a wonky car. Although they do look nice
I'm very very tempted to get a kit now, even selling some pc bits to afford it Not sure where to get it from though, I'd go for SpeedTech if only there was a choice of colours.
#1114
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by fai
JDM: Any suggested set-up for medium-high traction small-technical track?? Thanks!
Also, may I know how do you maintain the 'rebound' of the dampers? My problem is that I always find the rebound of the dampers reduce after just a few runs on track! (damper itself, not the spring) My local buddy suggested me to do it in this way: unsrew the cap for a whole turn and then screw it back immediately!
JDM: Any suggested set-up for medium-high traction small-technical track?? Thanks!
Also, may I know how do you maintain the 'rebound' of the dampers? My problem is that I always find the rebound of the dampers reduce after just a few runs on track! (damper itself, not the spring) My local buddy suggested me to do it in this way: unsrew the cap for a whole turn and then screw it back immediately!
HI Fai Try that set up on the last page or to .. it's a very good starting point for a small technical track! Just like what I race on .
As for the shocks..?? I rebuild mine every 2 weeks or so.. but I have never noticed a decrease in Shock rebound what so ever.?? .
-Dave
#1115
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Herminator
Whats the benifit of getting all the Square aluminium bits? surely they weigh more and instead of breaking they'll bend and you may not notice you have a wonky car. Although they do look nice
Whats the benifit of getting all the Square aluminium bits? surely they weigh more and instead of breaking they'll bend and you may not notice you have a wonky car. Although they do look nice
Hermi'
I run all of the "SQUARE" Alloy parts on all my cuda's and I still come in right at the minimum weight 1500grams +~- 15g
the Square parts ar well enginered to be light and strong at the same time
-Dave
#1116
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by fai
SpeedTech: Sorry to hear you broke the C-hubs... I do have a pack of spare C-hubs inside my tool box... in case they broke suddenly!!
SpeedTech: Sorry to hear you broke the C-hubs... I do have a pack of spare C-hubs inside my tool box... in case they broke suddenly!!
-Dave
#1117
Maybe I'll get all the aluminium bits at a later date then, I don't think I can afford 100bucks worth of more bits, I need to get atleast one set of 3300's for this summers racing.
#1118
Herminator, If you're looking for a good deal on 3300's, let me know. I think I can make it worth your while. Dino
#1119
ooh, I'm intregued
I definetly need some 3300's soon, my non matched 3000's just don't have the oomph I want. Plus I'm still using an old cheap set of 2400's for racing with.
Would guys say the Barracuda is more suited to stock racing or mod?
Had any problems with ruining the diff gears? like do stones tend to get stuck in them more with the guards in place or not? and is it wise to order a couple spare gears. So far my spares list is spare suspension arms, c-hubs, hub carriers. possibly some outdrives, I'll be ordering bits for a complete diff for the front too.
I definetly need some 3300's soon, my non matched 3000's just don't have the oomph I want. Plus I'm still using an old cheap set of 2400's for racing with.
Would guys say the Barracuda is more suited to stock racing or mod?
Had any problems with ruining the diff gears? like do stones tend to get stuck in them more with the guards in place or not? and is it wise to order a couple spare gears. So far my spares list is spare suspension arms, c-hubs, hub carriers. possibly some outdrives, I'll be ordering bits for a complete diff for the front too.
#1121
Hi Guys,
I have to say that the Barracuda R2 is the perfect weapon for stock racing, because the transmission on the car is extremely efficient. I was able to get my car to free spin for around 15 seconds, it is amazing how freely the transmission spins.
I haven't got a change to run my car in mod yet, but I did run it in 19T, which I did notice one thing: No torque steer!!! I'll throw in a hot mod and see if there are any torque steer coming out of the car. If what I think is correct, this car should have very little torque steer, if any!
Stev Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com
I have to say that the Barracuda R2 is the perfect weapon for stock racing, because the transmission on the car is extremely efficient. I was able to get my car to free spin for around 15 seconds, it is amazing how freely the transmission spins.
I haven't got a change to run my car in mod yet, but I did run it in 19T, which I did notice one thing: No torque steer!!! I'll throw in a hot mod and see if there are any torque steer coming out of the car. If what I think is correct, this car should have very little torque steer, if any!
Stev Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com
#1122
Just managed to raise some money towards the R2 one step closer.
#1124
Nice to hear, I'm still trying to decide wether to run 19spec class or 12mod in this summers Scottish outdoor championship. I'm doubtfull out local club will run a 19T class when we move outdoors, although it would be a sensible thing to do for our slower members. I'd like the savings of 19T but it's not really a saving if I need different motors for club racing and championship racing. Think I'll have to find a good 12T for all my racing and get a friendly racer to skim it every week, last summer I tried to get away with a cheaper 12T hand wound, was probably closer to a 13T and not a fast one at that. For stock racing I think it will do great.
Argh, I want one more and more. Looks like the Lab will become a rain car
Argh, I want one more and more. Looks like the Lab will become a rain car
#1125
what are the differences, between the R1 and the up coming R2?
do you more or less get the same parts?
and another question. performance wise, for example running clockwise. does it matter which side the batteries are on?
the Evo III has them on the left, while the Cuda's have them on the right.
any help will be appreciated.
Thanks!
do you more or less get the same parts?
and another question. performance wise, for example running clockwise. does it matter which side the batteries are on?
the Evo III has them on the left, while the Cuda's have them on the right.
any help will be appreciated.
Thanks!
Last edited by racer; 03-04-2003 at 03:41 PM.