Team Associated TC4
#8176
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Corner Weight
Actually the Lunsford hinge pins bend easier than the stock AE ones - I've bent three They Lunsford ones are a LOT lighter though. I only replaced my steel screws with Ti - and the places that didn't need the strength got aluminum. I'm 1.5 oz under weight now.
#8177
Tech Apprentice
I agree, but it's still easy weight reduction - relatively cheap too.
#8178
ok, my bad with the aluminum hinge pins, i just wonderin about the different parts for the car in the long run.
#8179
ok, my bad with the aluminum hinge pins, i just wonderin about the different parts for the car in the long run.
whats a good bearing set, i ordered ones from ebay cause ppl i race wit says its good but the f****** usps lost my f****** package of them f***ers 20 dollars out the window
whats a good bearing set, i ordered ones from ebay cause ppl i race wit says its good but the f****** usps lost my f****** package of them f***ers 20 dollars out the window
#8180
i just screwed up didnt i oops
#8181
Tc4
Hi guys just to let you all know you can beat trf415msx's, yokomo bd's, FK05's and HPI pro4's with the tc4 yes the plastic fantastic I run agaist these cars at my local club and can beat them in qualifing and in the mains tq and win the guys aint slow either.
bring it on lets face it we tend to know our cars better as we generally keep them longer as we all love to run Team Assosiated products I have for the last 10 years maybe more as they have only produced 2 cars and they still win.
bring it on lets face it we tend to know our cars better as we generally keep them longer as we all love to run Team Assosiated products I have for the last 10 years maybe more as they have only produced 2 cars and they still win.
#8182
Tech Adept
just get a nice set of metal shield bearings thats all you need
#8183
Do any of you guys run kick up at the front I have been for a while now it makes the car so much more predictable and stable.
only found it by accident when rebuilding my car forgot to put the same amount back but it does really work.
only found it by accident when rebuilding my car forgot to put the same amount back but it does really work.
#8184
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by i.a.s
Do any of you guys run kick up at the front I have been for a while now it makes the car so much more predictable and stable.
only found it by accident when rebuilding my car forgot to put the same amount back but it does really work.
only found it by accident when rebuilding my car forgot to put the same amount back but it does really work.
#8185
Read something about turning radius in a thread some where on this site, and figured I had to try that.
Found that when the turning radius was equal left and right(ST:Balance 100% left and rigth on my KO EX-10 Helios), the left steering linkage is 3mm longer then the right.
How can this be?
Might it be bether too set them equal and replace the Steering drag link wiht an adjustable on?
Found that when the turning radius was equal left and right(ST:Balance 100% left and rigth on my KO EX-10 Helios), the left steering linkage is 3mm longer then the right.
How can this be?
Might it be bether too set them equal and replace the Steering drag link wiht an adjustable on?
#8186
My progress with the FT TC4 has taken me through changes that pros are not using. At the start of our carpet season I was beating everyone except one very good driver. Then 2 guys below me got T2s and all of sudden I was chasing them around at least a lap down. Well through trials, errors and thinking outside the box I finally feel like I caught up. At our 2-day I qualified ahead of both of them using 4 heats.
Try the following:
Run the diffs at 1/4 turn loose from tight.
Use a harder compound rear tire than double pink. ie 38-40 shore
I used CRC touring tires ( R6 front and R4 rear)
Try full stiff with the chassis (all screws in top plate, spine and stand offs)
Try sway bars front and back.
I used 50wt. #2 pistons all the way around and purple ft. and copper rear springs.
No inner hinge pin shims in front and one anti squat shim in rear under ft. inner hinge pin.
Try the parma alpha body.
These are my gains, if you want try them out.
God Bless
Try the following:
Run the diffs at 1/4 turn loose from tight.
Use a harder compound rear tire than double pink. ie 38-40 shore
I used CRC touring tires ( R6 front and R4 rear)
Try full stiff with the chassis (all screws in top plate, spine and stand offs)
Try sway bars front and back.
I used 50wt. #2 pistons all the way around and purple ft. and copper rear springs.
No inner hinge pin shims in front and one anti squat shim in rear under ft. inner hinge pin.
Try the parma alpha body.
These are my gains, if you want try them out.
God Bless
#8187
tc4kid191
I have used the setting for both carpet and tarmac I have started to beat people that I just could not catch with 415's managing to tq and win the A now
I have to strip my car very soon I will post the actual set up im using for carpet I think its good maybe you may be able to use it as a base and work your own driving style into it.
I have used the setting for both carpet and tarmac I have started to beat people that I just could not catch with 415's managing to tq and win the A now
I have to strip my car very soon I will post the actual set up im using for carpet I think its good maybe you may be able to use it as a base and work your own driving style into it.
Last edited by i.a.s; 03-19-2006 at 10:15 AM.
#8188
Tech Adept
That'd be good i.a.s. I'm playing about with setups for rubber on carpet myself. I found with 50wt oil up front and 40wt at the back I couldn't get anywhere near the turn in I needed at my track. It's strange because I have a friend running a similar setup with a tub tc4 (but with more performance add-ons than you could shake a stick at), and he is using 55-65% steering rate and has loads of steering even then. I think the difference between the tub and carbon chassis must be quite different.
I do agree I think the chassis CAN be quick, but I would get a T2 if I was buying my car now. I'd like to see a race where all the top drivers were given an identical car. That way we'd have an idea of how the few good TC4 drivers actually compare.
I do agree I think the chassis CAN be quick, but I would get a T2 if I was buying my car now. I'd like to see a race where all the top drivers were given an identical car. That way we'd have an idea of how the few good TC4 drivers actually compare.
#8189
Mine is the tub chassis but have a ft comming I just cant not drive a assosiated car maybe the others maybe quicker out of the box but I do belive that they are just as competative as each other I know people that cant get a good setup with the other so called great cars. Ive never had a real problem but I like to take it slow and really never change to much. I think you can gain more time in a race by learning the car and the track thats what I do and works for me. by changing things each round you never really know whats happening to the car with each setting change you need at least 3 or 4 runs to understand what is going on. The track is the main thing thats where you will gain time learn it.
Setup will be posted as soon a I can.
Cant wait to get my teeth into the FT TC4 sounds like a challange but hey that makes it all the more fun.
Setup will be posted as soon a I can.
Cant wait to get my teeth into the FT TC4 sounds like a challange but hey that makes it all the more fun.
#8190
Have any of you guys used this #31136 Factory Team ITF Chassis Kit, for the FT TC4 any feed back would be good as may need to get this I wounder if the new tc4 will be shipped with this chassis.