Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I don't know if it was mentioned or not but we have a few of the FT VCS2 Shock Upgrade Kit left in stock.

Kraig
KT Hobbies

RCMits

iTrader: (30)

woot. never mind ;-)

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

part # 1732 TC3/TC4 HD Oneway Ring Gear...

RCMits

iTrader: (30)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLPG4&P=ML

oOo 150$ to convert to the Factory Team.

Now I know what to do with my space Tc4 LOL.. hahaha

Blue aluminum motor bulkhead.
Blue aluminum camber link spacer, camber link (left side).
Blue aluminum camber link spacer, camber link (right side).
Blue aluminum standoffs.

Carbon Parts
Carbon antenna mount, input bearing cup, carbon servo mounts with spacers, carbon center spine mounts, 2.5mm woven carbon fiber spine, 4-degree front caster blocks, two shock tower mounts.

Graphite Chassis Parts
Top deck, 2.5mm.
2.5mm graphite front shock tower.
3.0mm graphite rear shock tower.
2.5mm chassis plate.

Other Parts
Lightweight TC4 foam bumper.
Aluminum shock bushings.
Assorted hardware.
Allen wrench.
Instruction manual.
Two decal sheets.

DDBadger

I just purchased my first tourning car a Factory Team TC4 off of E-Bay. This is the 4th car that I have purchased off of E-Bay along with many other things, and this is the first time I have been burned by someone on E-Bay. The car was listed as driven for one battery pack so it was in new condition, and was built by a professional. After I waited 2 weeks for him to ship it I found out that it was built by a professional clown. I can't believe what a terrible job this guy did. About one third of the screws were not near being tight, one third had the head stripped out, and the other third had the threads stripped out. The differentials felt like there was sand in them. The threads on 2 of the brackets that hold the sway bar was so bad you could pull it off with your fingers.

Well enough complaining, because I am stuck with it, and have made very good progress on getting it back into running shape. I am having trouble getting the diffs working smooth. I have built them with the steel outdrives. I am able to get one to turn nice and smooth, but I can't get the other one even close. I have taken them apart over and over again switching parts back and fourth and I am guessing that one of the diff ring gears is just not right. Has anyone else had this problem, tomorrow I am going to get a new set of diff balls and give that a try, but any suggestions would be great.

Also, I will be racing my car on carpet with rubber tires. Does anyone know where I can get a good set up for this kind of racing.

Thanks In Advance
David

p.s. I did get burned on this car, But I WILL have it in Top shape and flying soon!!!

RCMits

iTrader: (30)

if you bought it on ebay, you can fight it, also depends on how you paid for you you can fight to get your money back, that the item was misrepresented, could be considered as mail fraud etc etc etc. did you deal with the person and perhaps ask for your money back?

anyhoo... as far as setup, look on rc10's website, couple of settings on their, but mostly carpet. with carpet, go as low as possible, and as stiff as possible and then search here for setups.

im not a big carpet racer.. so i can't say.

good luck.

runnin rc10

iTrader: (1)

This car is not as good when really stiff on carpet, generally the setups have been on the softer side

beerbarron

Hey I just switched from running foams on carpet to rubber tires on carpet (tyres for the brits) and I completely changed the setup. I ran the car for about ten minutes with the foam setup and then went home and put on a much softer setup with higher roll centers. The lap times dropped by about a half second with the new setup. Hope it helps.

Front

Red Spings, 35wt oil, 2 pistons, shocks-lower outer hole, shocks-upper 3rd hole in, largest sway bar, .09 shims under inner camber link(third hole in), .050 roll center spacers, no ackerman

Rear

Blue springs, 35wt oil, 2 pistons, shocks-upper 2nd hole in, shocks-lower outer hole, no sway bar, no spacers under upper camber link (farthest hole in), .05 roll center spacers, circle block in front, 2.5 block in rear.

5mm ride hieght and a fair amount of droop with more in the rear. I am still playing with the droop. 4 deg caster blocks.

The car was run with no chassis stiffening and RP24 pre-mounts. The handling was neutral with a very slight amount of push. It was easy to drive and I was pretty happy with it. I am going to work on it some more by trying more toe in the rear and anti-squat and anti-dive settings, just to see if I can increase rear grip. If I can get more rear traction I'll add back in some more steering.

mark240973

DDbadger

Don't waste money on diff balls, it's the plastic diff gear that is at fault.

associated made a batch too wide and this causes a really poor diff action if not at all.

There is a thread on this site, as other people also have had this problem.

Mine was exactly the same problem, one diff perfect the other locked up totally, got new diff gears and the problem was instantly solved.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Thrust washers wear first, diff rings second... diff balls last. (In most cases!) In your case he may have just tossed a nonspecific washer in place of the thrust washers... there is a VERY important difference between the two. I would purchase the AE thrust washers with thrust bolt ($3.00), diff rings ($1.50), and rebuild it with the proper greases/lubes to see if that solves the issue. The "only" way the balls would be the problem is if he actually mixed them with other diff balls from other batches. They are "matched" to a certain degree... and if he "lost" some and took spares from some other kit, or parts box... then they could cause a problem like you mentioned. The diff gear (as mentioned earlier) is the issue if you can look on the face of the diff gear (either side) and can see where the diff outdrive is rubbing on it... it will be scuffed. This can also happen if the diff rings (big) are so worn, as shown by a deep groove where the balls ride, that the tolerance is too little, and the diff outdrives will rub the diff gear... at first in sections... feeling "notchy", but not "gritty", as the rings wear even more... the diff can lock up like a spool (solid, no diff action) if tightened to race "spec". It sucks you were taken advantage of... but welcome to the hobby nontheless! Keep us informed of your progress!

- DaveW

BlackKat

I ended up with a similar setup today with a spool on carpet (on CS-27's) and am curious. Where in the corner did the car push? (center, mid or exit?) I might be able to help you out a bit

beerbarron

It felt pushy on the gas exiting a corner. I was considering anti-squat in the rear to keep weight transfer down.

bjspinner

iTrader: (22)

what toe are you using on the front? try 0 or toe in on the front and use less spacers under the rear, it will suprise you. you can be more aggresive into corner but rear stays put, I know it sounds a contradiction to lower the rear roll centre to gain steering but I have found with this car along with others that some unusual things work and work well. Think outside the square!

Bandit72577

I just have a quick question, I'm running a TC4, Novak GT7, trinity monstehp stock motor. and IB 3800 cells. I was wondering for a tight carpert track what what profile would be best for the GT7, I was told 5, but it seems to hard on the brake in turns. OR is there a better place to ask this. Thanks in advance.

Bandit72577

Oh yeah, would adding bearings to the steeringreally make that big of difference to the TC4?