DDBadger

Thanks Everyone

I want to say Thanks to everyone who has given me suggestions on how to get the diffs working right. The first thing I did was try to dremil the thicknes of the plastic diff gear. I was leary about that just because of the dremil tools that I have. That did not work for me, but even before I tried that I had orders some new ones, along with a few other parts to have for spares. I have made good progress in getting this car ready to run. I have got the suspension arms moving free with no slop, the same with the drive train. I can't believe this clown thought he could run a car with the suspension and drive train that messed up. Once I have the diff parts, get them working and in, I should have the car ready to race. Once again, Thanks Everyone. I may have other questions down the road, it is nice to have a place like this to get some answers.

Thanks
David

newera152

iTrader: (4)

Will the 3 Racing TC4 Aluminum steering knuckles fit on a TC3?any help, havent found one for the TC3 itself.
newera152

BatJam1

I'm also running the GT7 and i'm using profile # 5 for aggresive stock. Some people asked me if i had any braking dialed in .i dont feel it has too much brake!

beerbarron

Yeah, I am already running zero toe in the front. I was trying to add traction to the rear at first as it was very tail happy. Now the rear is a little planted and the front is good. Not great. I will try your suggestion today. Thanks.

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

of spares for the TC4. I'm selling for cheap. Arms, c-hubs 2,4,6 degrees, knuckles, swaybars, diff gears, polished hinge pins, bevel gears, and much much more. PM me for pics and info.

tc4kid191

does anyone have the carbon fiber shock towers by 3racing? are they any good?

RCMits

iTrader: (30)

anyone ever look at Penguin R/C's tc4 conversion? looks promising unless it was already mentioned here and I just havent looked far far back.. ;-)

Bandit72577

Hmm, I might by heavy with the tigger finger with brake I guess, I so use to the off-road track where you need a strong brake for almost the turns. I guess just practice the carpet so it gets comfortable.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Who uses brakes?!



- DaveW

BatJam1

Just finished a new shell for the TC4. Its the new G6 body by Protoform.Its a quicky job just 4 hours !

bjspinner

iTrader: (22)

I am using them on the FTTC4 Iwas lazy when I built the new car just took my TC4 and swapped all the parts over, they have 5 holes for the shock so abit more fine tunning. Just watch out for the screw length as it will squash onto the bearing in the gearbox causing binding.

tc4kid191

thanks

runnin rc10

iTrader: (1)

I finally got my car on the rug last night. Me and a buddy (the local fast guy) traveled about 45 min. only to be the only people at the track. So we just drove around trying to push each other and get re-aquainted with driving. I had the car feeling decent. But after driving his JRX-S I noticed a some things that Id like to try and get out of my TC4. It pushes a little bit off power into the corners. But coming out when I get back on the throttle, IT STEERS. Its almost a oversteer on corner exit. I have a few things to try, but wanted to know what you guys are running. First, camber links, front caster (just the blocks, then the shims under the pivot supports), and shock mounting positions. Just looking for a little insight, thanks a lot guys.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Front
Tire: Jaco DPink/Orange
Shocks: White spring, #3 piston, 45wt Losi oil, #3 hole on tower, inside on arm
Suspension mounts: #2 under triangle and circle (.050), 3 shims in front of the arm
Caster: 4 degrees
Droop: 4.5
Camber link: Hole #1, black ballstud inside-silver ballstud on the casterblock, no washers
Anti-roll bar: Silver, full length

Steering rack: Black ballstud, no washers
Bumpsteer: Three silver washers (.090), silver ballstud, this will be different if you use the stock TC4 steering block (i use the Losi XXX-S block), the idea is to get the steering links level with the suspension arms at rideheight (when looking at them from the front of the car with the bumper removed) When looking down on the front end, there should be no steering deflection in the steering knuckle when the suspension is compressed and released. Again, a great starting point.
Standoffs: All four added
Spine: Yes. Cut in half mounted forward.
Diff: LW Plastic, tight

Rear
Tires: Jaco DPink
Shocks: Purple spring, #2 piston, 50wt Losi oil, #4 hole on tower, outside on arm.
Suspension mounts: #3 under circle (.075), #2 under X3.0 (.050), 3 shims in front of the arm
Rear hub: Inside hole
Droop: 3.75
Camber link: Hole #1, black ballstud inside-silver ballstud on Losi 0 degree non-offset hub, no washers
Anti-roll bar: Silver, full length
Diff: LW plastic, medium
Rideheight: 5mmR/4.5mmF
Tire size: 57 mm to start
Check tweak! MIP station works well.
Transmitter settings: Dual rate 90%. Steering End Point Adjustment 64%L/66%R (make sure the servo arm is 90 degrees to the servo link at neutral, it will be a mixture of mechanical/transmitter settings to get it that way).

I am running front arms on the rear of my car, it is something i have come to really like, but is not necessary to run this setup. If you run the standard rear arms, then use .060 in front of the rear arm on the hingepin, and .030 behind... it seems to be whats popular with the rear arm setups. If the car is a bit too stiff for your taste, move the upper shock positions in a hole front and rear.

- DaveW

runnin rc10

iTrader: (1)

This is a FT setup right? If so, do you guys feel the stiffer chassis allows for stiffer setups? Im running a really soft setup comapred to what im used to in TC. I still have the all graphite tub, FT in a few weeks. If there are differences, what should I do different to the FT setups when I put them on my car.