300LikesTeam Associated TC4
03-06-2017, 10:55 AM
Got test samples in met. plastic today for the STD version...
going to make a small tweak and order it in aluminum
going to make a small tweak and order it in aluminum
03-06-2017, 11:15 AM
oooh, I like that. Let me know if you need a test mule.
03-06-2017, 11:54 AM
Tech Apprentice
Looks good. I did a similar one a while back. Cant remember why I dropped it.
I also did one for the FTTC4 that works the same as the tub version. Also cant remember why I dropped that.
I also did one for the FTTC4 that works the same as the tub version. Also cant remember why I dropped that.
03-06-2017, 12:41 PM
The sliding/removable piece for the FTTC4 motor mount is an awesome idea. The only reason I stopped running that car was how much a pain it was to install the motor or change pinion gears.
03-06-2017, 02:08 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Does anyone know for certain if the Club Racer lower suspension mounts are different then the original kit version? I was trying to follow a setup sheet and noticed that the mounts look like they have some shims built into them. Does anyone know what the equivalent number of shims is for each of the mounts?
And while I am asking questions, a quick one on setup sheets...the one I am following says they are using three shims under both front arm mounts. But there are 3 different sizes of shims on the tree that I have. Are they using 3 of the small ones, or one of each size, or....
Thanks!
And while I am asking questions, a quick one on setup sheets...the one I am following says they are using three shims under both front arm mounts. But there are 3 different sizes of shims on the tree that I have. Are they using 3 of the small ones, or one of each size, or....
Thanks!
03-06-2017, 07:04 PM
Club Racer definitely has built in shims in the height of the mounts but I don't have one and cannot confirm what shim height it is exactly.
As for the included tree shims they have nubs on them. 1 nub is the thinnest 2 nub is equal to 2 1 nubs stacked, 3 nub is equal to 3 1 nubs stacked...
3 shim on the sheet means use the 3 nub shim or any combination that equals 3...
As for the included tree shims they have nubs on them. 1 nub is the thinnest 2 nub is equal to 2 1 nubs stacked, 3 nub is equal to 3 1 nubs stacked...
3 shim on the sheet means use the 3 nub shim or any combination that equals 3...
03-06-2017, 09:24 PM
Tech Apprentice
Okay, so I put back the Motor Mount I made with the top screws. reason I dropped that design was because it didn't have enough space to move the motor left/right on the FTTC4 unless the screws were in the middle but that's not possible due to the shaft bearing getting in the way on some motors
Total movement space with the FTTC4 was about 1-2mm left/right tweaking may improve this but wont get close to what im getting with my other mount
Image attached
The design worked well on the DC4 because the top deck is a lot smaller and does not get in the way of the screws.
Total movement space with the FTTC4 was about 1-2mm left/right tweaking may improve this but wont get close to what im getting with my other mount
Image attached
The design worked well on the DC4 because the top deck is a lot smaller and does not get in the way of the screws.
03-07-2017, 06:05 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Club Racer definitely has built in shims in the height of the mounts but I don't have one and cannot confirm what shim height it is exactly.
As for the included tree shims they have nubs on them. 1 nub is the thinnest 2 nub is equal to 2 1 nubs stacked, 3 nub is equal to 3 1 nubs stacked...
3 shim on the sheet means use the 3 nub shim or any combination that equals 3...
As for the included tree shims they have nubs on them. 1 nub is the thinnest 2 nub is equal to 2 1 nubs stacked, 3 nub is equal to 3 1 nubs stacked...
3 shim on the sheet means use the 3 nub shim or any combination that equals 3...
03-07-2017, 06:13 AM
Okay, so I put back the Motor Mount I made with the top screws. reason I dropped that design was because it didn't have enough space to move the motor left/right on the FTTC4 unless the screws were in the middle but that's not possible due to the shaft bearing getting in the way on some motors
Total movement space with the FTTC4 was about 1-2mm left/right tweaking may improve this but wont get close to what im getting with my other mount
Image attached
The design worked well on the DC4 because the top deck is a lot smaller and does not get in the way of the screws.
Total movement space with the FTTC4 was about 1-2mm left/right tweaking may improve this but wont get close to what im getting with my other mount
Image attached
The design worked well on the DC4 because the top deck is a lot smaller and does not get in the way of the screws.
03-09-2017, 10:25 AM
Has anyone made low profile shock towers for the Tc4Ft yet?
03-09-2017, 11:27 AM
03-09-2017, 08:22 PM
[QUOTE=PJRacer;14838987]Does the B44 have the same gear ratio[/QU
yes. 2.5
yes. 2.5
03-09-2017, 08:23 PM
03-11-2017, 12:15 PM
Below is a pic that contains a side by side comparison of the TC4 Club Racer vs AE #31025 TC4 a-arm mounts.
Unfortunately I didn't have the both of the different 3.0 degree a-arm/toe blocks to compare. However I have compared them in the past and the TC4 Club Racer part is taller than the one included with AE #31025.
In case anyone is having problems seeing the photo, here are the differences.
Circle "●" Club Racer mount is a 2 nub spacer taller than #31025
Square "■" Club Racer mount is a 3 nub spacer taller than #31025
Triangle "▲" Club Racer mount is a 3 nub spacer taller than #31025
The easiest way to tell if you are using a #31025 a-arm mount is that the entire bottom of the mount would be flush to the chassis when mounted. In other words the bottom of these mounts goes straight across. On the TC4 Club Racer, the middle of the mount is raised above the chassis.
Here is another way to look at the mounts:
Upper case I = TC4 Club Racer
Upper case C = AE #31025 (These mounts came with the original tub chassis TC4 and the RTR TC4 kits)
Hope this info helps.
(EDIT)
I updated the attached picture for clarity.
Unfortunately I didn't have the both of the different 3.0 degree a-arm/toe blocks to compare. However I have compared them in the past and the TC4 Club Racer part is taller than the one included with AE #31025.
In case anyone is having problems seeing the photo, here are the differences.
Circle "●" Club Racer mount is a 2 nub spacer taller than #31025
Square "■" Club Racer mount is a 3 nub spacer taller than #31025
Triangle "▲" Club Racer mount is a 3 nub spacer taller than #31025
The easiest way to tell if you are using a #31025 a-arm mount is that the entire bottom of the mount would be flush to the chassis when mounted. In other words the bottom of these mounts goes straight across. On the TC4 Club Racer, the middle of the mount is raised above the chassis.
Here is another way to look at the mounts:
Upper case I = TC4 Club Racer
Upper case C = AE #31025 (These mounts came with the original tub chassis TC4 and the RTR TC4 kits)
Hope this info helps.
(EDIT)
I updated the attached picture for clarity.
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 03-11-2017 at 12:37 PM.
03-11-2017, 01:13 PM
One of the common problems with the TC3/TC4 is loose screws holding in the steering knuckle. Often the special bottom screw will fall out during a race and you will lose it on the track. Worse is when the top ball stud comes loose and ruins the top hole on the steering knuckle.
The cause of this problem is that the steel bushings that fit between the steering knuckle and caster block don't have enough clearance on the outside of the caster block. This causes the shoulder of the ball stud/special screw to rub on the caster block during any turning motion of the steering. Eventually they loosen to the point where you either lose parts or ruin the steering knuckle holes (and usually ruin a race/qualifying heat).
Due to inconsistencies in the modeling process, sometimes a caster block will have slight ridges left over from the molding process where the metal bushing is located. What I prefer to do is take a metal file an remove those ridges/remove a bit of material. I usually start on the inside holes on the caster block (closest to the steering knuckle) and file away a little bit of material. On the top outside of the caster block I will also file down a little bit of material to smooth away any ridges. The bottom outside of the TC4 caster blocks shouldn't need any material removed as they are designed with a recess in them.
By removing just a little bit of material from the caster blocks, it will allow the metal bushing to extend out a little bit which will prevent the shoulders of the ball stud/special screw from rubbing on the caster block.
It should only take a few minutes to "modify" a caster block with a small flat file. If you don't have a file, you can also carefully use the edge of a hobby knife to scrap off the extra material.
One last note, make sure when reassembling the steering knuckles to not cross thread the screws in the plastic and potentially strip out the part. The best practice is to apply pressure to the screw as you are installing it and turn your tool COUNTERCLOCKWISE. You should either hear or feel a click. When you do, you have found the start of the threads in the steering knuckle. You can now turn in the screw clockwise and tighten it into the existing threads in the plastic.
Hope this info helps.
The cause of this problem is that the steel bushings that fit between the steering knuckle and caster block don't have enough clearance on the outside of the caster block. This causes the shoulder of the ball stud/special screw to rub on the caster block during any turning motion of the steering. Eventually they loosen to the point where you either lose parts or ruin the steering knuckle holes (and usually ruin a race/qualifying heat).
Due to inconsistencies in the modeling process, sometimes a caster block will have slight ridges left over from the molding process where the metal bushing is located. What I prefer to do is take a metal file an remove those ridges/remove a bit of material. I usually start on the inside holes on the caster block (closest to the steering knuckle) and file away a little bit of material. On the top outside of the caster block I will also file down a little bit of material to smooth away any ridges. The bottom outside of the TC4 caster blocks shouldn't need any material removed as they are designed with a recess in them.
By removing just a little bit of material from the caster blocks, it will allow the metal bushing to extend out a little bit which will prevent the shoulders of the ball stud/special screw from rubbing on the caster block.
It should only take a few minutes to "modify" a caster block with a small flat file. If you don't have a file, you can also carefully use the edge of a hobby knife to scrap off the extra material.
One last note, make sure when reassembling the steering knuckles to not cross thread the screws in the plastic and potentially strip out the part. The best practice is to apply pressure to the screw as you are installing it and turn your tool COUNTERCLOCKWISE. You should either hear or feel a click. When you do, you have found the start of the threads in the steering knuckle. You can now turn in the screw clockwise and tighten it into the existing threads in the plastic.
Hope this info helps.