Team Corally RDX Touring Car
06-05-2005, 09:48 PM
#2371
Originally Posted by AARON YOUNG
I took a piece of piano wire and bent a 90 deg on one end and left the other straight....Kind of like a real tierod tool for racecars ...simple and works..and jaybee I thought it might be a geometry thing ,your servo must be shorter than mine (ko 2173) cause it would hit the belt..
-JB
06-06-2005, 01:42 AM
#2372
Here's my electronics layout (taken with phone camera , hence the brilliant quality!)
Std size KO servo, Spektrum Rx, GTX ESC and two fans for ESC and motor.
Std size KO servo, Spektrum Rx, GTX ESC and two fans for ESC and motor.
06-06-2005, 07:59 AM
#2373
Swaybar Location
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Wow, that is WAY bizarre! I actually captured that from the Manual PDF on the Corally USA site...
Weird.
Dom
Weird.
Dom
Apparently they have updated the manual since first print. The CorallyUSA website has the old one. I will see if there is an updated PDF available. You should mount it in front of the CVD otherwise it hits the steering at full lock. There is plenty of room if you don't slam the mount to the back of the wire.
Jeff
06-06-2005, 09:39 AM
#2375
Originally Posted by JayBee
Got a question about the turnbuckles, how in the world do you adjust them w/o marring them? Do you stick something small in the holes? -JB
My friend has the RDX and uses the MIP 1.5mm wrench and it wroks perfect in the hole.
Hoep this helps,
Besides the MIP wrench is the best on the market...LOL
Stephen <><
06-06-2005, 09:49 AM
#2376
Tech Initiate
The best tool for the turnbuckles is an L shaped allen key.
06-06-2005, 12:03 PM
#2377
Originally Posted by Obsidian
Greetings,
How do the 2deg. castor blocks react and compare to the 4deg. castor blocks when using a oneway with rubber tires on asphalt?
Thx
How do the 2deg. castor blocks react and compare to the 4deg. castor blocks when using a oneway with rubber tires on asphalt?
Thx
Jeff
06-06-2005, 06:20 PM
#2381
Basically when you raise the roll center it will make that end of the car roll less, and rolls slightly faster. It will take some of the traction away as well. Generally we all start with the normal low position (position #1 all around). Usually you go to position #0 (super low) for carpet as it slows how quickly that car rolls, and it makes it easier to drive. Sometimes people will use a slightly higher rear roll center to get more mid-exit steering. Hope this helps you out a bit.
-Korey
-Korey
06-07-2005, 03:14 PM
#2383
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Hey Jeff, can you verify that I've got the right part numbers here for the thick chassis and all its related needs. Also, any chance you could provide prices for these parts? I'll be placing my order this week.
COR79357: 3.4mm RDX Graphite Topdeck
SRC100: 3.9mm RDX Milled Graphite Chassis
COR79363A: "RDX" Battery Strap.
COR79357: 3.4mm RDX Graphite Topdeck
SRC100: 3.9mm RDX Milled Graphite Chassis
COR79363A: "RDX" Battery Strap.
Top Deck.... Retails for $35
3.9mm Chassis...... Retails for $150
Battery Strap....... Retails for $18
06-07-2005, 03:18 PM
#2384
CVD Steel Blades
We are pleased to release info on our Steel Blades for CVD driveshafts. Been under development for several months now we did final testing at this years Reedy Race. We never had to worry about changing the plastic blades everyrun anymore.
You can check out pictures on www.corallyusa.com and click on the link to Specialized R/C. Items are under the "Optionz" page. You will need to purchase both the Steel Blades and the CVD Bones that have been drilled and tapped on the end.
You can check out pictures on www.corallyusa.com and click on the link to Specialized R/C. Items are under the "Optionz" page. You will need to purchase both the Steel Blades and the CVD Bones that have been drilled and tapped on the end.