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Old 07-07-2011, 08:58 AM   #2521
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Originally Posted by Dali View Post
When you start bench testing don't be too alarmed if you hear grinding/vibrations when applying full steering lock, its the front drive shafts.


Do check to make sure the nothing is in the way of the belt as always with any build.

To remove the noise you'll want to upgrade to ESC drive shafts or limit your steering rate:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


I spent countless hours trying to work out why I was getting the noise!
.
.

If you plan to use a gear diff in the front, I'd get the 50mm front ECS shafts.
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:46 AM   #2522
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anyone have a good setup for a high traction big track for the 11 I cant seem to get mine to run like my 10 To much steering and the back likes to kick out some times Running 17.5 open speedo. Any help would be appreciated thanks
I will be running it on asphalt with either 32's 36's or 40's depending on the weather here in chicago
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:04 PM   #2523
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I found even keeping the stock shafts in but using a gear diff up front will take away a tiny bit of the noise/chatter since it has some "give", but it's not nearly as noticeable as ESC shafts.

Gear diff + ESC shafts = smooth as warm butter......
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Old 07-07-2011, 04:44 PM   #2524
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I will be running it on asphalt with either 32's 36's or 40's depending on the weather here in chicago
Adding 1mm of ackerman spacers and H roll centres on the front (or 1mm shims if you have the new bulkhead clamps) should sort the back stepping out problem. If the track is really high bite then you may need to take out some more steering
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Old 07-09-2011, 01:31 PM   #2525
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I was running the stock 52mm bones up front and went to the 50mm ecs to help with the shatter up front. When I assembled the shafts all I had was AE black grease and after one night one is very bound up already? Is the shaft damaged or is it because I didn't use the Xray graphite grease?
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Old 07-10-2011, 03:36 AM   #2526
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I was running the stock 52mm bones up front and went to the 50mm ecs to help with the shatter up front. When I assembled the shafts all I had was AE black grease and after one night one is very bound up already? Is the shaft damaged or is it because I didn't use the Xray graphite grease?
Hard to tell without parts in my hands. Take it apart to find out. Associated grease is good too.
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:05 AM   #2527
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Adding 1mm of ackerman spacers and H roll centres on the front (or 1mm shims if you have the new bulkhead clamps) should sort the back stepping out problem. If the track is really high bite then you may need to take out some more steering
So 2mm of ackerman spacers total? 1mm is kit setting (?) IIRC,

Can you help me understand why adding a 1mm roll center shim on the bilkeahd clamp would help keep the back in shape in this case? My first instinct would be to add the 1mm shim to the rear to finely adjust the roll center lower and add some grip in the rear. I'm not debating with you just trying to get better at setup

Thx Craig.
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:04 PM   #2528
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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
I found even keeping the stock shafts in but using a gear diff up front will take away a tiny bit of the noise/chatter since it has some "give", but it's not nearly as noticeable as ESC shafts.

Gear diff + ESC shafts = smooth as warm butter......
A spool chatters more because the out drive slots on both side are aliegned with each other, as the drive shafts woobles in the outdrives, the combined effect is chatter. In a gear diff loaded with goop, the slots will most likely be out of aliegnment so less chatter. Its possible (with a bit of faffing about) to fit schuy MI4 drive shaft in the Xray, these chatter slightly less and 1/2 the cost of Xray parts but ESC are the best.
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:06 PM   #2529
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So 2mm of ackerman spacers total? 1mm is kit setting (?) IIRC,

Can you help me understand why adding a 1mm roll center shim on the bilkeahd clamp would help keep the back in shape in this case? My first instinct would be to add the 1mm shim to the rear to finely adjust the roll center lower and add some grip in the rear. I'm not debating with you just trying to get better at setup

Thx Craig.
No trouble at all

0mm ackerman is kit, 1mm is a bit more mellow particularly mid corner

With the RC's you are right, lowering the front RC with all other thing equal will give more steering, but when we are taking about the upper links the change in height of the RC is very slight whereas the change in camber gain is more noticeable, and its the camber gain on the L setting which can make the car bite mid corner and cause the tail to step out unexpectedly - this is most evident on large tracks (e.g. nitro) with long continuous radius corners.

You're correct on the changes to the rear too, adding that shim will really lock it in but I've never liked the car with 1mm on the rear bulkhead because it just seems to steal corner speed away.
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:34 PM   #2530
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No trouble at all

0mm ackerman is kit, 1mm is a bit more mellow particularly mid corner

With the RC's you are right, lowering the front RC with all other thing equal will give more steering, but when we are taking about the upper links the change in height of the RC is very slight whereas the change in camber gain is more noticeable, and its the camber gain on the L setting which can make the car bite mid corner and cause the tail to step out unexpectedly - this is most evident on large tracks (e.g. nitro) with long continuous radius corners.

You're correct on the changes to the rear too, adding that shim will really lock it in but I've never liked the car with 1mm on the rear bulkhead because it just seems to steal corner speed away.
Makes perfect sense now, I didn't think about the camber gain piece of it being as much of a factor. I'm going to give it a go next time I have the opportunity.

I fought this in my last race with the xray in this one specific key part of the track. Good timing on your initial reply and thanks to the OP!

I should know this already after reading the setup manual about 47,000 times
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Old 07-11-2011, 03:21 AM   #2531
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Makes perfect sense now, I didn't think about the camber gain piece of it being as much of a factor. I'm going to give it a go next time I have the opportunity.

I fought this in my last race with the xray in this one specific key part of the track. Good timing on your initial reply and thanks to the OP!

I should know this already after reading the setup manual about 47,000 times
I hear ya, the setup book is good for the theory but nothing beats testing. See how you go and let us know, obviously any settings depend on the rest of your setup plus a million other variables, that's what makes it fun I'm told

Has anyone here run the sweep OG spec tyres and can comment how they compare with say sorex?
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:03 AM   #2532
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I've ran the OG tires with a 10.5 boosted, and on medium-grip carpet they hooked up pretty well. The car didn't feel completely "planted" but as long as I stayed on the groove I didn't have any traction issues. They also felt like they rolled better than softer Sweep tires. I can imagine if a track had a very dark groove built up they would be great!

I ran some practice and a heat on medium grip asphalt yesterday, also. They gripped well enough but just didn't drive as "fast" as the hard Solaris tires also allowed, so I don't plan to use them on asphalt again unless it is the only option.

I haven't used Sorex, though, so I can't compare them!
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Old 07-12-2011, 12:43 AM   #2533
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OK cool. We'll be running them on high grip asphalt as the control tyre for the FEMCA ISTC later in the year.
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:09 AM   #2534
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OK cool. We'll be running them on high grip asphalt as the control tyre for the FEMCA ISTC later in the year.
Which EVERYONE has to come to!!!

Going to be awesome.
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Old 07-12-2011, 04:23 AM   #2535
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Hello you guy's

I'm just building my xray T3 2011 and it looks really cool
For powering the system i've got a GM Genius 120 ESC, but i'm looking to get a motor...

How much turns could you recommend?
It's just driving for fun, so there are no regulations...

Greetings
Kurt
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