EPIC "D3" Duo 3
#271
10 degrees on motor
Boost 50
Turbo 12
Delay 0.2
Ramp 2
Start 6000ish
End 19000ish
Motor temps 170 to 175 after 5 minutes with no fading.
#272
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
With the SP 13.5 my Tekin setup is as follows, the setup has plenty of rip and speed so I just need to know if I need to make changes for the D3 to keep temps in check. I don't currently have too much time to get to the track to test before my next club event
10 degrees on motor
Boost 50
Turbo 12
Delay 0.2
Ramp 2
Start 6000ish
End 19000ish
Motor temps 170 to 175 after 5 minutes with no fading.
10 degrees on motor
Boost 50
Turbo 12
Delay 0.2
Ramp 2
Start 6000ish
End 19000ish
Motor temps 170 to 175 after 5 minutes with no fading.
#273
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
Yes what Racecrafter posted is the true definition of why. It easier terms though its as Yang said as I use a Load type dyno so as a load is applied to the motor the rpm drops and this is where the amp draw comes in. As you put a heavier load on it the amps go up and rpm goes down.
EA
EA
Did you get my last email?
#274
So currently my FDR is at 7.6 with SP, do you still suggest 6.3 ? The straight is around 130ft leading into a sweeper which is around 90ft
#276
D3 17.5
Has anyone seen this on the bearings for the new Duo 3? (New one with timing markings) Just got one last week .. ran it for 3 mins and the car started to make a loud noise coming from the motor. Opened it up and found the bearings were leaking the grease that is packed in them big time.. cleaned it off.. noise went away for 10 sec's and then it stated again. only did a few small burst of throttle opened the motor again and then this is what I saw on the bearings again.. Motor is not damaged or anything it still works fine.. but want to sort out this bearing issue before I use it again.
The bearings in the Duo 3's are in very tight fit so I don't know if the bearings are just place in the end bell holes or if there is some kind of clip holding them in there... I have replacement bearings that would fit (don't want to break anything removing the old ones).. but there seems to be a problem if this is on a new motor. Maybe too much grease packed into the bearings or?? when I free spin the bearings its like I am doing it under water.. they are free but not as free as they should be.
I didn't oil or grease the bearings (which may have casued this) as they are packed with grease already. I have some Fantom Bearing Oil but I have to removed the grease from the bearings to put it in..
Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue.
The bearings in the Duo 3's are in very tight fit so I don't know if the bearings are just place in the end bell holes or if there is some kind of clip holding them in there... I have replacement bearings that would fit (don't want to break anything removing the old ones).. but there seems to be a problem if this is on a new motor. Maybe too much grease packed into the bearings or?? when I free spin the bearings its like I am doing it under water.. they are free but not as free as they should be.
I didn't oil or grease the bearings (which may have casued this) as they are packed with grease already. I have some Fantom Bearing Oil but I have to removed the grease from the bearings to put it in..
Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue.
#277
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
bad sensor board?
I'm a little bummed. After reading all the good times you guys were having with your D3's, I went ahead and ordered an Express tuned 13.5 from A-Main.
I soldered it in, put power to it, and nothing. After checking all of the connections, I pulled the sensor wire, and it worked. I checked with another sensor wire, and still nothing.
I'm assuming the board is bad. Is there a way to check this with a volt meter or anything?
I hope this isnt an weakness with these motors since I read an earlier post about the same issue. I've had a handfull of brushless motors over the past few years. I've burned a few up, but never had a board go bad, especially out of the bag!
The part will cost me around $30+ from A-MAIN, which I'm not too thrilled about.
If anyone has any suggestions, i'm all ears (or eyes!!)
Thanks,
Steve
I soldered it in, put power to it, and nothing. After checking all of the connections, I pulled the sensor wire, and it worked. I checked with another sensor wire, and still nothing.
I'm assuming the board is bad. Is there a way to check this with a volt meter or anything?
I hope this isnt an weakness with these motors since I read an earlier post about the same issue. I've had a handfull of brushless motors over the past few years. I've burned a few up, but never had a board go bad, especially out of the bag!
The part will cost me around $30+ from A-MAIN, which I'm not too thrilled about.
If anyone has any suggestions, i'm all ears (or eyes!!)
Thanks,
Steve
#278
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I had this happen to my Ballistic not too long ago. My Tekin RS wouldnt fire up unless I removed the sensor wire. It started doing this when I made an adjustment to the motor timing right before a qualifier
I corrected the problem by removing the endbell, cleaning it out and re-seating it. Never had a problem since.
I corrected the problem by removing the endbell, cleaning it out and re-seating it. Never had a problem since.
I'm a little bummed. After reading all the good times you guys were having with your D3's, I went ahead and ordered an Express tuned 13.5 from A-Main.
I soldered it in, put power to it, and nothing. After checking all of the connections, I pulled the sensor wire, and it worked. I checked with another sensor wire, and still nothing.
I'm assuming the board is bad. Is there a way to check this with a volt meter or anything?
I hope this isnt an weakness with these motors since I read an earlier post about the same issue. I've had a handfull of brushless motors over the past few years. I've burned a few up, but never had a board go bad, especially out of the bag!
The part will cost me around $30+ from A-MAIN, which I'm not too thrilled about.
If anyone has any suggestions, i'm all ears (or eyes!!)
Thanks,
Steve
I soldered it in, put power to it, and nothing. After checking all of the connections, I pulled the sensor wire, and it worked. I checked with another sensor wire, and still nothing.
I'm assuming the board is bad. Is there a way to check this with a volt meter or anything?
I hope this isnt an weakness with these motors since I read an earlier post about the same issue. I've had a handfull of brushless motors over the past few years. I've burned a few up, but never had a board go bad, especially out of the bag!
The part will cost me around $30+ from A-MAIN, which I'm not too thrilled about.
If anyone has any suggestions, i'm all ears (or eyes!!)
Thanks,
Steve
#279
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
Bsmooth,
Shoot me a e mail at [email protected] and I will got over this issue with you. I mayu know whats going on. If not we will fix issue. Its usally a simple thing.
John Tag
Shoot me a e mail at [email protected] and I will got over this issue with you. I mayu know whats going on. If not we will fix issue. Its usally a simple thing.
John Tag
#280
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
Bsmooth,
Shoot me a e mail at [email protected] and I will got over this issue with you. I mayu know whats going on. If not we will fix issue. Its usally a simple thing.
John Tag
Shoot me a e mail at [email protected] and I will got over this issue with you. I mayu know whats going on. If not we will fix issue. Its usally a simple thing.
John Tag
Thanks John.
I just sent you an email.
#281
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Bsmooth,
Shoot me a e mail at [email protected] and I will got over this issue with you. I mayu know whats going on. If not we will fix issue. Its usally a simple thing.
John Tag
Shoot me a e mail at [email protected] and I will got over this issue with you. I mayu know whats going on. If not we will fix issue. Its usally a simple thing.
John Tag
#283
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
Bsmooth,
Shoot me a e mail at [email protected] and I will got over this issue with you. I mayu know whats going on. If not we will fix issue. Its usally a simple thing.
John Tag
Shoot me a e mail at [email protected] and I will got over this issue with you. I mayu know whats going on. If not we will fix issue. Its usally a simple thing.
John Tag
John,
thanks for the phone help tonight. It seems I did have a lot of flux that must have ran down the solder tabs when I wired it. I cleaned it all up with some denatured alcohol and a cotton swap, and it worked!
You went above and beyond what reasonable customer service is!
Thanks again,
Steve