Dusttt

iTrader: (144)

What set up would someone recommend for bumpy medium grip asphalt with my V5?

I do have the V5 shocks and a set of the 84317 and a set of the 42102s

setanborneo

i have same problem with you mate, try this setup, i enjoyed this setup for my v5 car on medium grip asphalt with small bumpy track

Dusttt

iTrader: (144)

Thanks

Glarke

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Craig, I am running hole 3 front and hole 4 rear at the moment but Ill try 5 in the rear + have a look at all your other recommendations.
Is it worth trying a little more camber? I have heard people comment on sorex needing a little more than some other brands - Not sure if its true or not.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Hard to say. More static camber in the rear (e.g. 2deg) will improve rear end stability off power but you'll have even less forward bite. It doesn't hurt to give it a go...

Starteur

iTrader: (1)

When you put steel gears in the 417 X diff do you sand thew to the right thickness ( Groskamp style)like we do with the plastic ones ?

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Nope they drop straight in with perfect mesh. Use 0.3mm shim each side. The fit is even better with the new outdrives!

Starteur

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot !

dingsky

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the world of RC and I got 417 V5 arrived a week ago, but havent had time to build it yet. I prepared the Lower carbon fiber and that is it. I'm looking at putting savox 1251MG, Reedy lipo and Tekin RS pro set. Has anyone had setup like this before and if you do pls share your thoughts. enlighten me please, thanks.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

You definitely want to use a servo saver with that servo. It's all metal gears, but can be a bit brittle, especially if you're new to RC (you'll hit a lot of things). But it performs well. Don't use a lower-end Spektrum receiver with it, as you may have dropout issues.

Tekin is a great ESC for 17.5 and below. It can be a bit like a light switch with faster motors, though. You can also run a Silver Can with it, if you should be so inclined. Find someone local with a hotwire to get your software up-to-date and make sure you've properly configured it for the class you're going to race.

-Mike

Glarke

iTrader: (1)

Im not going to be able to get to the track for a few weeks so Ill ask the question here.
Ive just noticed the front belt is fairly loose. Long shot here, but is it possible that was causing some of the tail happy behavior? Im guessing it would load up the rears before front tires under braking/accelerating.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

It wouldn't help but it's unlikely to be the sole cause

NItrox416

Hi Craig,
I need your precious help,
I run the trf417x in a small technical asphalt track with blinky 13.5, smokem fx chassis, on solaris medium. My car is very hard to drive and the only way to get tires in temperature is to go with four tamiya white spring, despite this in the two in line left-right of the track I always lose my rear end.
The only changes I've done from kit setup are 1B-1B in front with 0.5 anti-dive and 1XB-1D in the rear and I've rised the bulkheads of .5mm, so like the v5. In which way can I solve the oversteer?
Do you think I have to get a stiffer chassis?
Thank you for help.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I also found B/B can make the car taily in chicanes. Lately I've been running wider at the front, D/D, and I haven't been using anti-dive as much.

Tamiya whites are an OK spring but I prefer Ride or HPI. To help get your tyres into the right operating temperature try different additives and higher temps on your warmers (~70c). If that doesn't work go lighter shock oil and a harder spring.

Also, your chassis is fine. In general I think people are way too quick to change carbon when their issues can more easily be solved with setup

Qatmix

I would widen the front and the rear, that's quite narrow. Also tam blue spring at the rear. Also try removing the anti dive.