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Tamiya TRF417

Old 06-26-2012, 07:30 AM
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Are the shock towers made for the 417x compatible with the 416? If so, any particular reason to use them? Just curious..
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3
Are the shock towers made for the 417x compatible with the 416? If so, any particular reason to use them? Just curious..

no they dont fit as the bulkheads on the 417 are closer together.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by svndayNZ
Cheers Craig my shocks are the right length and wheels and tyres are fine. I think you're right it's the droop screw. I've set the front droop to 6 for my local track, what would be the better process for setting ride height then droop? Or other way around

if your setting your droop at 6 and only getting a 4mm ride height something is wrong as you should get way more than that. where are you measuring your droop from?

do you measure your droop with shocks on or off? maybe try measuring it with the shocks attached to rule out a shock length problem
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Smartypants
do you measure your droop with shocks on or off? maybe try measuring it with the shocks attached to rule out a shock length problem
you CANT measure droop with your shocks off.
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:53 PM
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Any rumors on a TRF417X replacement and when?
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
you CANT measure droop with your shocks off.

Of course you can, and many do!

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...iw3Ipmol8Nst6g
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Furman
Any rumors on a TRF417X replacement and when?
Probably depends how they do at the worlds, in previous years tamiya have always released new trf cars (416/417) around October to December! So just in time for Christmas!
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Smartypants
you can measure droop with shocks off but if you do you should recheck droop when you put the shocks back on to make sure your setting hasn't changed. Shock lengths can limit travel same as a droop screw. I always check droop with shocks on because i race my car with shocks on
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Smartypants
That video is great, but at 8:00 when he brings out the blocks, he's not setting droop (as he erroneously calls it), he's setting his downstops. Downstops, while closely related to droop... is not droop. Just before that in the video where he describes doop as how far the chassis travels upwards before the tires leave the ground, IS the proper, and only way you can actually measure droop. And it has to be done with tires, ready to run, from the ground. They are technically two different things. So while you do "set" the static level the arms sit at, (he even explains it in the video), you don't "measure droop" this way.

Id be happy to elaborate if you wish.

Last edited by Cpt.America; 06-26-2012 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:12 PM
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True, but if you know what down stop number equals what droop on your chosen tyres at your ride height then measuring down stops is the most accurate way of setting droop
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigM
True, but if you know what down stop number equals what droop on your chosen tyres at your ride height then measuring down stops is the most accurate way of setting droop
Downstop setting (measured with blocks) = difference in height between chassis, and bottom of wishbone. This can be looked at as the entire down travel of the arm.

Droop (measured with a ruler or ride height gauge) = difference in chassis height between static ride height, and tires lifting the ground.

Here is a real world example of why it's a good idea to not confuse the two. Lets say you set the following: (all made up numbers)

ride height at 5mm
downstops at 4 (using the blocks, tires off, shocks off)

Now, lets say that with this setting you end up with 3mm of droop, which is what you are after... great. Now, lets say you later decide to change your ride height from 5mm, to 6mm. Without even touching the downstop blocks, you have changed your droop from 3mm, to 2mm, reducing weight shift.

So you can have MULTIPLE droop values, for ONE setting on the droop/downstop blocks, since droop is a result of the downstop settings AND ride height, put together. So while related, droop and downstops are two different things, and they are commonly confused and interchanged with one another.

But I digress.
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
That video is great, but at 8:00 when he brings out the blocks, he's not setting droop (as he erroneously calls it), he's setting his downstops. Downstops, while closely related to droop... is not droop. Just before that in the video where he describes doop as how far the chassis travels upwards before the tires leave the ground, IS the proper, and only way you can actually measure droop. And it has to be done with tires, ready to run, from the ground. They are technically two different things. So while you do "set" the static level the arms sit at, (he even explains it in the video), you don't "measure droop" this way.

Id be happy to elaborate if you wish.
so if you increase ride height by 1mm, you need to adjust the downstop by the same amount to keep droop consistent? is that the difference?
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by svndayNZ
hi again guys, i'm having issues raising the front ride height of my car. the back adjusts well to tuning with the calipers but the front wont lift. all my shocks are exactly the same length but my front is stuck at 4mm. is this common? where could i be going wrong?
are you running foams?
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by inpuressa
so if you increase ride height by 1mm, you need to adjust the downstop by the same amount to keep droop consistent? is that the difference?
yup,.. its not a straight translation "1-for-1" .., but some adjustment "in the same direction" will need to be made..
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by inpuressa
so if you increase ride height by 1mm, you need to adjust the downstop by the same amount to keep droop consistent? is that the difference?
EXACTLY... after changing ride height, you need to readjust your droop screws to put your droop BACK to what it was, if you want the same amount of droop. which is why using the blocks, by itself, DOESN'T measure your droop. The only reason why any of this is even important, is so that when we are here helping each other, we are actually discussing the same thing.
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