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Tamiya TRF417

Old 10-05-2011, 09:19 AM
  #1981  
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Originally Posted by crabboy
Hi Guys, i always like to see pics of other guys cars so i thought i would post a couple of mine.
As you can see i have done the chassis mods (well most any way) also cut the top deck, motor mount, running split blocks, theres a lot of weight on the car as the weight limit for the event was 1450g , i was running the Arrowmax drive shafts but the grub screws come out twice so i put them away for another day, also to make the car look a bit different i put on white wire and ball cups.
The biggest problem i seem to be having is with the Tamiya V2 diff, the 3 shims in the diff start to cone where the gears start to push the shims against the o ring and in turn starts to make the diff feel notchy, and its hard to try to buy the shims.

Rhys
Just finished with the hacksaw and hammer Went deeper with the cut outs. Good fun love chopping things up

Last edited by hana166; 10-11-2013 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:35 PM
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what split block's are you guys running in the rear?
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Old 10-05-2011, 05:19 PM
  #1983  
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Default TRF417 steering

Some steering questions:

1) What is considered a good max steering angle (as shown on a setup station)..20 deg? 25? 30?

2) Do most people reduce their steering dual-rate? if so, by how much?

3) Does anybody use their exponential function on their transmitters?

I ask these questions, because I find that the car has a little too much steering in the large sweepers, so I reduce the dual-rate by 15% so that it feels much better....but on the other hand, this seems to make the car slightly understeer in the tight corners..making me want to increase the dual-rate back to 100%...perhaps exponential function will help here?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thx!!
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by crabboy
The new Spec R drive shafts look good with the clips instead of the grub screws.

Rhys
Only for 11.5 turn and up.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Gear-Washer-10

2 of these per side seems ok at the moment.
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mhavlena
Some steering questions:

1) What is considered a good max steering angle (as shown on a setup station)..20 deg? 25? 30?

2) Do most people reduce their steering dual-rate? if so, by how much?

3) Does anybody use their exponential function on their transmitters?

I ask these questions, because I find that the car has a little too much steering in the large sweepers, so I reduce the dual-rate by 15% so that it feels much better....but on the other hand, this seems to make the car slightly understeer in the tight corners..making me want to increase the dual-rate back to 100%...perhaps exponential function will help here?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thx!!
Quite a few choices here but

First thing I would do is lay down the rear shocks. To increase rear grip when the car is leaned over in the sweeper. More stable, less steering. But it also will give more rotation into the slow corners as well, so more steering, exactly where you need it

I prefer to tune the car than use electronics, I run zero expo, but this is quite unusual. I do definitely use the dual rate

No doubt someone will chime in and completely contadict this tho
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mhavlena
Some steering questions:

1) What is considered a good max steering angle (as shown on a setup station)..20 deg? 25? 30?

2) Do most people reduce their steering dual-rate? if so, by how much?

3) Does anybody use their exponential function on their transmitters?

I ask these questions, because I find that the car has a little too much steering in the large sweepers, so I reduce the dual-rate by 15% so that it feels much better....but on the other hand, this seems to make the car slightly understeer in the tight corners..making me want to increase the dual-rate back to 100%...perhaps exponential function will help here?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thx!!
See Jilles Groskamp's tips at: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...ssisSetup.html

I can't really explain the right driver technique, I think every driver has it's one technique. With the coming of the spool in Touring car most of the good drivers had to change their technique by using more brake and more from corner to corner driving, not smooth anymore.

1. Steering expo between -25 and -30
2. Brake expo 0
3. Brake 100%


So, in short, since your radio has that option, you should just try it and see if it helps you. After all, it's everything you can tune, including radio, to get the desired results that counts.

I used to run -25% and with full steering lock. As I progress with better driving skill and steadier hands, I start to lower the steering curve slowly until I am running 0% now.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mhavlena
Some steering questions:

1) What is considered a good max steering angle (as shown on a setup station)..20 deg? 25? 30?
I set the car up for maximum possible amount of lock on the setup station, without straining the servo.

2) Do most people reduce their steering dual-rate? if so, by how much?
Again, tend to run around maximum steering travel (on my Sanwa tranny, thats 150% D/R), and may occasionally knock it back 5-10% if I'm really struggling, but use it as a last resort.

3) Does anybody use their exponential function on their transmitters?
Yes, 15% seems to be the value I tend to settle on. Any less, I find the steering too pointy, any more and it's too numb for my liking

I ask these questions, because I find that the car has a little too much steering in the large sweepers, so I reduce the dual-rate by 15% so that it feels much better....but on the other hand, this seems to make the car slightly understeer in the tight corners..making me want to increase the dual-rate back to 100%...perhaps exponential function will help here?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thx!!
If you chat to pro's how they setup the steering, you'll tend to find that most
will setup the cars to have the maximum amount of lock possible, and then just use less stick to control the car... it's something that takes time to learn, I'm guilty of it myself often enough... just have to remember there is a setting between zero and full lock

I agree with the comment about leaning the rear shocks in, that will help. Mine are usually setup on either hole 1 or 2 on the rear (innermost & one in), rarely go higher than that.

HiH
Ed
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by hana166
Just finished with the hacksaw and hammer Went deeper with the cut outs. Good fun love chopping things up
Have you tried it on track yet? the rear cut looks pretty long...
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Old 10-06-2011, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by banquer
Can anybody confirm me that the 417 gear diff is compatible with 416X?
Are the 417 front cvd (refs. 51445, wheel axe and 54077, 44mm swing shaft) compatible with the 416X?

King regards!!
Can somebody tell me something about the front cvd's of the 417 to be used in the 416X?

Regards!!
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by banquer
Can somebody tell me something about the front cvd's of the 417 to be used in the 416X?

Regards!!
Hi

Yes they are, I run them in both my 416 and 417
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Have you tried it on track yet? the rear cut looks pretty long...
Not yet, I joined the pulley/spur gear hole as I still have a monobloc mount, TBH I dont expect much difference, but you never know. As you mentioned previously, without the carbon underneath perhaps cutting the brace may have more effect

So far I've felt that more flex generally helps the front end bite. The cut deck required a slightly different set up to get the best from it with all the extra steering but the car is definitely faster now

On steering lock I've always used the maximum available, but recently I've been trying something very different, which is to set the car to be more unstable with a view to using the absolute minimum amount of lock to get around the track. The idea is that this will produce the least scrubbing, and therefore the maximum available corner speed. The seems to be something in this idea so far, within reason, looking at my times, for stock at least
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Old 10-06-2011, 06:58 PM
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Tamiya 417 Gear Diffs are back in stock, Click Here

Also, please visit the 417 parts store.



FYI, Thanks.
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Old 10-07-2011, 01:02 AM
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More big pictures from the official press release: http://kentech.blogs.se/

Tamiya Racing Factory (TRF) team's ace driver Marc Rheinard won the 2010 IFMAR World Championship with the TRF416X. In December of the same year, the TRF417 was released and it has achieved equally impressive results at various top-level international R/C races. With an eye on winning the upcoming 2012 IFMAR World Championship, Tamiya is introducing this latest iteration of the TRF417, the TRF417X. Although the differences between the new car and the TRF417 may seem subtle, the newly-designed lower deck offers improved chassis flexibility for better low-speed traction. The previous one-piece motor mount has been replaced by a three-piece type to allow further adjustment of chassis' flexibility by linking them together. The thickness of the front and rear damper stays have been increased to 3.5mm and other new developments include a new upper deck, metal battery holders which serve as counterweights, and low-height kingpins. A front direct coupling and rear gear diff unit (Item 42197 TRF417 Gear Differential Unit II) are also included.

Motor mount allows adjustment of chassis rigidity and new positions of motor attachment holes enable a wider choice of gear ratios to better suit your track or racing class.

Damper stays have damper attachment slots to allow fine setting adjustment. Increased thickness of 3.5mm offers improved damper attachment rigidity for greater damper effectiveness.




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Old 10-07-2011, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by kentech
More big pictures from the official press release: http://kentech.blogs.se/

Tamiya Racing Factory (TRF) team's ace driver Marc Rheinard won the 2010 IFMAR World Championship with the TRF416X. In December of the same year, the TRF417 was released and it has achieved equally impressive results at various top-level international R/C races. With an eye on winning the upcoming 2012 IFMAR World Championship, Tamiya is introducing this latest iteration of the TRF417, the TRF417X. Although the differences between the new car and the TRF417 may seem subtle, the newly-designed lower deck offers improved chassis flexibility for better low-speed traction. The previous one-piece motor mount has been replaced by a three-piece type to allow further adjustment of chassis' flexibility by linking them together. The thickness of the front and rear damper stays have been increased to 3.5mm and other new developments include a new upper deck, metal battery holders which serve as counterweights, and low-height kingpins. A front direct coupling and rear gear diff unit (Item 42197 TRF417 Gear Differential Unit II) are also included.

Motor mount allows adjustment of chassis rigidity and new positions of motor attachment holes enable a wider choice of gear ratios to better suit your track or racing class.

Damper stays have damper attachment slots to allow fine setting adjustment. Increased thickness of 3.5mm offers improved damper attachment rigidity for greater damper effectiveness.
Couple of interesting things....
low-height kingpins... shorter ball stud maybe?
Metal LiPo holders.... still won't use em
Thicker shock towers.... I don't really feel any flex on the current ones!
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Couple of interesting things....
low-height kingpins... shorter ball stud maybe?
Metal LiPo holders.... still won't use em
Thicker shock towers.... I don't really feel any flex on the current ones!
Low-height kingpins...also noticed them mentioned somewhere as "short-neck kingpins" but I guess we'll get to see exactly what they are next Thursday...
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