4LikesTamiya TRF417
10-02-2011, 05:30 AM
#1966
funny how a picture tells a thousand words. anyone got something on the motor mount?
Actually been off testing today, found some interesting things in relation to the split blocks and the car flex...
Basically, went to the nearby indoor track, which is high grip asphalt. Previously, I didn't like the cut top deck there, as it seems to bind the car up mid corner. Anyway, I started put with a setup similar to what I had run before (arm sweep, front gear diff) but as they've changed the track to more of a point and squirt, ended up going back to the spool for better exit drive.
But I digress... Then main purpose of testing today was to assess the change the split blocks make, as I finally got the split 1xa's for the rear.
Changing from the one-piece to the splits (both F-R) did generate more grip, but also with a decent shift to more steering too, which caught me out a little! I can only guess it's because the cut out is bigger under the front block than the rear.
Anyway, going back to the cut top-deck this time helped to tame the car a little... And boy was it fast and fun to drive! Actually improved my lap time down to a 12.29 (new track record too boot), whereas on earlier in the day had been at 12.6's. So I think I'll be keeping them on the car now, regarldess of grip level.
Now need to test it at the outdoor track, when it stops raining!
Regards
Ed
10-02-2011, 06:58 AM
#1967
Tech Regular
Glad it helps
Actually been off testing today, found some interesting things in relation to the split blocks and the car flex...
Basically, went to the nearby indoor track, which is high grip asphalt. Previously, I didn't like the cut top deck there, as it seems to bind the car up mid corner. Anyway, I started put with a setup similar to what I had run before (arm sweep, front gear diff) but as they've changed the track to more of a point and squirt, ended up going back to the spool for better exit drive.
But I digress... Then main purpose of testing today was to assess the change the split blocks make, as I finally got the split 1xa's for the rear.
Changing from the one-piece to the splits (both F-R) did generate more grip, but also with a decent shift to more steering too, which caught me out a little! I can only guess it's because the cut out is bigger under the front block than the rear.
Anyway, going back to the cut top-deck this time helped to tame the car a little... And boy was it fast and fun to drive! Actually improved my lap time down to a 12.29 (new track record too boot), whereas on earlier in the day had been at 12.6's. So I think I'll be keeping them on the car now, regarldess of grip level.
Now need to test it at the outdoor track, when it stops raining!
Regards
Ed
Actually been off testing today, found some interesting things in relation to the split blocks and the car flex...
Basically, went to the nearby indoor track, which is high grip asphalt. Previously, I didn't like the cut top deck there, as it seems to bind the car up mid corner. Anyway, I started put with a setup similar to what I had run before (arm sweep, front gear diff) but as they've changed the track to more of a point and squirt, ended up going back to the spool for better exit drive.
But I digress... Then main purpose of testing today was to assess the change the split blocks make, as I finally got the split 1xa's for the rear.
Changing from the one-piece to the splits (both F-R) did generate more grip, but also with a decent shift to more steering too, which caught me out a little! I can only guess it's because the cut out is bigger under the front block than the rear.
Anyway, going back to the cut top-deck this time helped to tame the car a little... And boy was it fast and fun to drive! Actually improved my lap time down to a 12.29 (new track record too boot), whereas on earlier in the day had been at 12.6's. So I think I'll be keeping them on the car now, regarldess of grip level.
Now need to test it at the outdoor track, when it stops raining!
Regards
Ed
10-02-2011, 09:23 AM
#1969
Can anybody confirm me that the 417 gear diff is compatible with 416X?
Are the 417 front cvd (refs. 51445, wheel axe and 54077, 44mm swing shaft) compatible with the 416X?
King regards!!
Are the 417 front cvd (refs. 51445, wheel axe and 54077, 44mm swing shaft) compatible with the 416X?
King regards!!
10-02-2011, 10:10 AM
#1970
Tech Master
Yup they are compatible. I have fitted the gear diff in my sons 416.
Ed, I also have fitted split blocks and a cut top deck. I found the split top deck made the car feel slightly unpredictable. However I am running on carpet with front ball diff etc.
However the car was fantastic. Just missed out on FTD by 3 seconds, it wasn't the car at fault but myself (hangover).
Ed, I also have fitted split blocks and a cut top deck. I found the split top deck made the car feel slightly unpredictable. However I am running on carpet with front ball diff etc.
However the car was fantastic. Just missed out on FTD by 3 seconds, it wasn't the car at fault but myself (hangover).
10-02-2011, 10:49 AM
#1971
Note at the track I'm racing on at the moment... but at TITC, as Jonest mentions there was. Have to say, haven't felt any issue like that yet though.
I've been running the cut top-deck for a while, haven't had a chance to try it with the split blocks until today though (wanted to do it only with both front and rear). Personally, didn't find the top deck to make the car unpredictable, just seemed to give more rear traction, which I think is down to the rear cross piece contributing more to the stiffness of the top deck than the front. Similar to my theory on why the split blocks seem to give more steering (removing the front brace gives a more flex to the front, relative to the rear).
I'm with you though... really surprised just how much more it gave the car. I was expecting an improvement, but if anything the split blocks are a bigger step than the top deck... glad I got the opportunity to test the different combo's today.
Also ran a v2 gear diff for the first time.. did I notice any difference between that and the spec-r? nope... but will have to give it time on the rebuild front
Yup they are compatible. I have fitted the gear diff in my sons 416.
Ed, I also have fitted split blocks and a cut top deck. I found the split top deck made the car feel slightly unpredictable. However I am running on carpet with front ball diff etc.
However the car was fantastic. Just missed out on FTD by 3 seconds, it wasn't the car at fault but myself (hangover).
Ed, I also have fitted split blocks and a cut top deck. I found the split top deck made the car feel slightly unpredictable. However I am running on carpet with front ball diff etc.
However the car was fantastic. Just missed out on FTD by 3 seconds, it wasn't the car at fault but myself (hangover).
I'm with you though... really surprised just how much more it gave the car. I was expecting an improvement, but if anything the split blocks are a bigger step than the top deck... glad I got the opportunity to test the different combo's today.
Also ran a v2 gear diff for the first time.. did I notice any difference between that and the spec-r? nope... but will have to give it time on the rebuild front
10-02-2011, 11:35 PM
#1972
Tech Adept
Here's some pics of my steering setup.
First two pictures show how much servo horn cant I use... a fair bit more than the manual 5°. Also shows that I move the servo 1mm forward (shims between the servo and servo mounts second picture), and I also push the ball joint on the servo horn forward an extra 1mm. This helps to make the drag link straight at full lock, for a little better resolution of the steering.
Under the ball joint on the steering cross brace, I use a 2mm shim (different to the manual 1mm), as this means you can get full lock on the steering, as the ball joint doesn't protrude underneath the cross brace, hitting the bell cranks at full lock.
Next two pics show the link lengths I use. The drag link length is from the middle of the ball joints, as I've had to trim the ball cups.
Last picture shows the angle of the steering using the setup gauges. Just push the toe-plate all the right. Using the previous method for setting up the steering, I get 25° showing on the plate each side. Because the toe plate isn't perpendicular to the car, that translates into much more real overall wheel angle.
HiH
Ed
First two pictures show how much servo horn cant I use... a fair bit more than the manual 5°. Also shows that I move the servo 1mm forward (shims between the servo and servo mounts second picture), and I also push the ball joint on the servo horn forward an extra 1mm. This helps to make the drag link straight at full lock, for a little better resolution of the steering.
Under the ball joint on the steering cross brace, I use a 2mm shim (different to the manual 1mm), as this means you can get full lock on the steering, as the ball joint doesn't protrude underneath the cross brace, hitting the bell cranks at full lock.
Next two pics show the link lengths I use. The drag link length is from the middle of the ball joints, as I've had to trim the ball cups.
Last picture shows the angle of the steering using the setup gauges. Just push the toe-plate all the right. Using the previous method for setting up the steering, I get 25° showing on the plate each side. Because the toe plate isn't perpendicular to the car, that translates into much more real overall wheel angle.
HiH
Ed
Thanks a lot for the detailed description and photos!! very appreciative
.. may I ask, what should I use to measure the steering angle?
10-03-2011, 07:15 AM
#1973
Tech Elite
iTrader: (171)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brooklyn New York GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!
Posts: 4,362
Trader Rating: 171 (100%+)
Looking for some info. on gearing 17.5 revtech with boost Lrp
10-03-2011, 06:13 PM
#1974
Can't wait to get back in, been out of R/C for over 2 years. This will be my comeback car! My last car was a 416.
Since I've been gone so long, a few questions:
What is a good gearing for a small-medium track running 17.5 with LRP SXX tc-spec?
Is there a ESC heads and shoulders above the rest? Tekin was the top dog when I got out.
What batteries and charger does everyone recommend? I still have my old Team Orion advantage lipo charger, should I invest in a better one?
Would love any feedback and tips on the car.
Since I've been gone so long, a few questions:
What is a good gearing for a small-medium track running 17.5 with LRP SXX tc-spec?
Is there a ESC heads and shoulders above the rest? Tekin was the top dog when I got out.
What batteries and charger does everyone recommend? I still have my old Team Orion advantage lipo charger, should I invest in a better one?
Would love any feedback and tips on the car.
10-04-2011, 07:00 AM
#1976
How long is the main straight, and what motor? On our indoor carpet track we are about 80' and w/ a revtech 17.5 I'm geared at 4.4. With a Duo 2 17.5 I was geared 4.0.
Is there a ESC heads and shoulders above the rest? Tekin was the top dog when I got out.
Now that most tracks are running blinky mode I would say not anymore.
What batteries and charger does everyone recommend? I still have my old Team Orion advantage lipo charger, should I invest in a better one?
Should be fine.
Would love any feedback and tips on the car.
Carpet or Asphalt track?
10-04-2011, 07:08 AM
#1977
Tech Elite
iTrader: (171)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brooklyn New York GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!
Posts: 4,362
Trader Rating: 171 (100%+)
I'm going to be running on carpet 100x48 revtech 17.5 LRP stock spec with boost any help with gearing Thanks
10-04-2011, 10:53 AM
#1978
This is the track I'll be racing at, indoor asphalt. http://www.westcoastrcraceway.com/MM.aspx
What is a popular choice for batteries?
What is a popular choice for batteries?
10-04-2011, 01:31 PM
#1979
batteries
This is the track I'll be racing at, indoor asphalt. http://www.westcoastrcraceway.com/MM.aspx
What is a popular choice for batteries?
What is a popular choice for batteries?
10-04-2011, 07:10 PM
#1980