LCG TC6
 

Now as promised the low budget lcg conversation for the TC6 that enables the use of EuroGT and Tamiya IFS bodies.

1. First of all you need 2mm shims, some square centimeters carbonfiber or similar, two servo mounts and a Dremel.
2. Take your TC6 and remove the diff clamps, shocktower, shocks, suspension arms, diff, topdeck and belt (depending on which of the above mentioned body you want to use do everything for the rear also!).
3. Take your Dremel and remove the inner stiffener next to the shock of the suspension arm. This will give space for the lay down shocks later.

http://abload.de/img/img_1846q4yi9.jpg

http://abload.de/img/img_1847rdz08.jpg

As we are at it make inline slits on the bulkheads between the screwholes for the topeck. Check with your favourite anti-roll-bar if it is fully sunk in. Because of the angled shocks we have to attach the anti-roll-bar inward.

http://abload.de/img/img_1845wpaa5.jpg

4. Now as the Dremel gets warm put it away and let it cool. Take a ruler, a pen and a little of your cfk and build yourself a horseshoe formed upper suspension link mount. This is the most difficult part as you have to take a lot of measurements (pm me for the dimensions). If you like long links in front you can skip this part!

http://abload.de/img/img_1843s6y97.jpg

5. This point is to choose for everyone: Cut off the two front holes of the top deck (cutting them will lower the suspension link mount). Make sure you don't cut too short as you need the topdeck to hold the anti-roll-bar in place.

6. Do a little cfk plate with two 3mm holes (28mm apart) and remove a little material so that the front diff fits underneath it (check how much after installing the servo mounts.

What you have as result for all the "hard" work:

http://abload.de/img/img_1842fral0.jpg

OK, this was some work already, but you can skip some of it depending on how much functionality you want. If you came that far and are still at it then you can enjoy the fun part now: Installing all parts :nod:

7. Start with the topdeck and the anti-roll-bars (lenghten the ballcup parts installed on the suspension arm until it stands vertical).

http://abload.de/img/img_184828zlh.jpg

8. Install the horseshoe looking plate for the linkage (add the ballstuds now at this point with your favourite geometry).

http://abload.de/img/img_1850a8xh9.jpg

9. Take diffcams and cut off the upper lip so that it has a horizontal upper look (see pic step 4).

10. Install Diff and cams.

http://abload.de/img/img_1849lvzxw.jpg

11. Put the 2mm shims underneath the servomounts and install both on the bulkhead. They will hold the diffcam in its place.

http://abload.de/img/img_1851z9lvl.jpg

http://abload.de/img/img_1852skyfm.jpg

12. Take a long buttonheadscrew and twist it through the upper shock mounts. Take the little plate from step 6 and push the screw through it. Now attach everything on the servomount. Do the same for the other side.

http://abload.de/img/img_1853hol5e.jpg

http://abload.de/img/img_185455abp.jpg


http://abload.de/img/img_185513xlh.jpg

http://abload.de/img/img_18562ul8j.jpg

http://abload.de/img/img_1857qrb5g.jpg

http://abload.de/img/img_18581el9w.jpg

http://abload.de/img/img_18599xy9x.jpg

And thats it basically. I admit I just wrote it down as if it is nothing, which is not true. For a quality (looking) result you need to work with precision. But everyone can do it and as you can see the chassis can be used with GT bodies (and/or lcg) easily without sacrificing any of its function.

http://abload.de/img/img_1860s9lyz.jpg

http://abload.de/img/img_1861jayp2.jpg

I hope you enjoyed this. :p

Awesome! :tire:

Or why not just sell a kit :lol:

What about rear body mounts?

Is there potentially a class for this configuration here in the U.S.?
What about tires...foamies?
I'm in for designing a kit if the numbers make sense.:nod:

YoDog any ETA on the servo mount kits and the new motor mount?

I Just started a new job so I no longer have machine shop access.
I can still design parts but it will be awhile till I can get back to making parts.
If someone knows of a shop that is willing to do small runs of parts at a low cost, I may be interested in farming the work out.

You can use the front or rear shocktower and fix it to the rear bulkheads with body mounts from a pancar or else.

Jupp, foam tires. It is the only choice for my outdoor hometrack. I discovered this conversation because I am still waiting for a RC10R5.1. I want to use this chassis for our F1 class and as the front needs to be low I tried some things and this just developed step by step in front of me.

Here is the still unfinished car:

http://abload.de/img/img_1864tdbcw.jpg

It will become a Brabham BT-45b. Still have to think about the rear body posts (and have to look what I have lying around). I can't wait to drive this thing. Hopefully it will give the feedback of a real seventies F1-car :lol::sneaky:

new guy used tc6.1
 

Hey everyone just got a nice used tc6.1 and in a day or so will be getting what ever info from previous owner on the car I can to help dial my car in. All what these new car can be chaged and adjusted is a little overwhelming. So I am sure to be jumping in on this forum quite frequently- im sure u guys have link to a set page or general info u could hook me up with

Thanks

There are several setup sheets on the Team Associated web site.

Here is the link for the setup sheets.
http://teamassociated.com/cars_and_t...anuals_setups/

I picked up a 6.1 a couple weeks ago and am having one problem. The problem is steering CVA bind. I have to dial out a whole lot of steering to get rid of the bind. Is there a fix for this problem other than buying Reflex DCJ's. I'd like to be able to use all or most of the steering that should be available on the car.

Thanks,
Neil

I haven't had any problems with them binding so far. Make sure they're greased enough. Other than that you might just want to pick up dcjs.

The chatter does not seem to affect the car on the track when it is under load so I would not hesitate to use full steering. Of course if there is some problem with the drive shaft itself then that must be fixed.

DCJs will eliminate the chatter. Using a gear diff will as well.