You may possibly be too narrow as well. Use the offset arm mounts or have about 2mm spacing if using the standard mounts.

Running offsets now. Thinking about switching from the spool to a gear diff. Wondering which way to go, Associated gear diff or a Spec-R. Any suggestions? Also I have some 500K diff fluid in my box. Would that be heavy enough?

AE or Spec-R gear diff is similar in quality; AE is JUST SLIGHTLY better built. Some of the older Spec-R units have issues where the outdrives are too tight for the AE blades, but they can be filed down to fix that.

To be honest though, if you're thinking of changing to gear diff in an effort to reduce chatter, it may be counter-productive. As Rick pointed out, the chatter does not really affect the car under load and when the suspension is settled.

Changing from front spool to gear diff will also alter the handling characteristics (maybe what you're looking for, depending on where you run). Generally, gear diff in the front will give you more steering, but less power out of the turns. Spool yields the opposite results, so tune accordingly.

If the symptom you're describing with the CVA is more severe than just chatter, they may need to be rebuilt?

To help you make a more informed decision, it's also worth mentioning a new gear diff is almost the same cost as a set of DCJs.

The AE diff is better than the Spec-r but I prefer the AE TC6 slipper spool.
500k will be ok but most use 1M to1.5M or silicone ear plugs.

I'm new to TC's and have seen posts about "floating" your heaviest components. I've read posts about attaching the servo without using the mounts. Is that a viable method? I see that GRID makes a floating servo mount. This may be a silly question, but are there ways to float the motor mount?

Thanks,
Zo

The primary reason for "floating" is to have as many mounting points near the center line of the chassis. In the TC6.1, the motor mount is already quite close to the center line. The problem that "floating" solves is components that are mounted transversely can greatly influence the lateral flex of the chassis plate. So moving their mounting point closer to the center line will reduce their effects on the chassis. That's the theory anyway...:D

Hello guys,
Just bought a TC6.1 FT worlds, want to put a scale realistic body, do the Tamiya bodies fit?

As long as the body is not an ifs body it will fit fine. I have a Tamiya R34 Skyline that is set to run at see point on my worlds car.

Jason

YoDog is moving and I wanted to say we are going to miss you you are a real racer and those guy's are so important to have racing with you. It has been a pleasure to race with you and hope to race with you in the future!Yodog your my Dog boy!

Never mind

Thanks! Any idea if I need to run a certain offset for Tamiya body? I was thinking no offset?

190mm body needs no offset. Also if you buy RSD low profile shock mounts you can run any Tamiya scale bodies. I recomend tamiya or HPI Acura NSX it is the best handling GT body. The Honda HSV is a great body too!

Hey I am new to on road and just playing around, ordering the Tamiya BMW M3 2009 GT2, i need different shock mounts to use this body? A previous post told me Tamiya body would fit.

Yes that body will work it is at a touring car. No you can use stock setup for the shocks. I love gt racing I try to convert as many nubies I try to turn them on to gt racing.

Thanks man, thats awesome news. Yea I love the scale looks and realism of the class. i dont know if we have any racing near me in Philadelphia. I race off road short course (love the realistic truck look) and also eBuggy. This is my first on road car and from Ive read its one of the best and I love building so I had to get a kit, I cant believe how hard it is to find kits anymore. Thanks so much for the advice, I got HPI wheels and tires to go with the Tamiya body, get the kit tomorrow, very excited.