^^^^the top deck will need to come off, then just undo the two little screws holding the spur in place. Viola, off comes the layshaft.

Actually what I do is roll the front belt off of the front pulley and then remove the 2 lay shaft screws. This way there isn't all that tension keeping the pulley/spur from lifting out. Do the opposite to reinstall the lay shaft. Just roll the belt back onto the front pulley once the screws are back in.

Depending on your belt tension removing the two layshaftscrews should be enough to bring the spur out. If your tension is to tight for that remove the rear upper bulkheads with the shocktower and pull the diff up to reduce the tension.

Believe it or not, I have been using the tool set from hobbypartz.com. They are inexpensive but surprisingly well made. You can't go wrong with the Hudy stuff though.:nod:

5/64 is useable for 2mm screws. However I'd recommend the MIP wrenches they are amazing and I think have lifetime warranty.

Cool as I was looking at it, it did seem that easy, Just wanted to make sure before I started doing unnecessary things. Thanks for the help everyone that took the time to post! I do have another "issue". The set screw for the pinon rubs ever so slightly against the edge of the belt, is that going to create a problem? I am actually going to go up 1-2 teeth so it might move it back enough to get clearance, or should I get some shorter set screws? The one in the pinion now does stick out a bit.

VW I put the motor screw spacers between the motor and the motor mount. This allows the motor to sit far enough out that the flat spot on the motor shaft will allow the pinion to sit with the set crew towards the motor and not risk rubbing your belt or battery.

I had the same issue as you and this is how I fixed it. Except in my case the pinion end rubbed my battery and the screw rubbed the belt.

Hope this helps,
Jason

Thanks Jason, I looked at turning the pinion around, but then I can't access the set screw to tighten it other than trial and error of pulling the motor out to do it. I need to pick up a new pinion anyway, I was running 100/40 with a 17.5 and getting run over down the straight. I hope the new pinion and pushing the motor back a mm or two should give me clearance.

Spur gear TC6/6.1
 

Would these fit?

http://www.the-border.com/RW-Spur-Ge...-48DP-70T.html

Hex Drivers
 

Hey Jason! Yeah...I think I rounded off one screw and not realizing it, it must of shaved off enough of the hex tool b/c it slips just enough now to round any screw that is somewhat tight. Yesterday I sent an email to Dynamite and they responded this morning asking me to send them my receipt and mailing address, so I'm hoping they can mail me a new 2mm bit! Customer service has been good so far as they got back to me immediately. I really like this tool set, especially since it has both the hex drivers and nut drivers btw.

Good to know, thanks Rick!

I've heard good things about MIP too and a lifetime warranty is what I'm looking for!

Just a side note…a great tip I got from my LHS is to ditch the two button head 2.5x8mm screws (part # 31521) that screw into the Spur Gear Hub and replace them with Cap Head screws...you won't even need to use locktite and you won't strip them as easily as those small button head screws!

VW, There is a small window cut in the underside of the chassis to allow you to tighten the pinion set screw once it is on and in place. I run 93/47 64p with a RevTech 17.5 in GT2 in my Worlds. When I change the pinion I just need to pull the belt down a bit to allow me to get the pinion out. Accessing the motor screws is a different story. That takes a bit of time and dis-assembly to accomplish.

Nick, That is good to hear. As for the screws for the spur holder I don't swap spurs often enough to worry about it. I do as much research as possible to see what gears will be needed and gearing range will be needed to run with the motor/class I am looking to run in. Saves time and frustration.

Jason

True! Seriously, Jason, you weren't kidding when you said my 21.5 motor you setup will run with 17.5! You had my car setup perfect from the beginning! In fact, Chris @ our LHS asked about the gearing on my car and after running it now in 1 Club race and 1 Series race (placing 2nd in both and led in the Series for several laps), I'm very happy! By the way...I beat another guy that had been racing a lot longer than me with a 17.5 motor and I'm just as fast and he was boosting! I think I'll try GT3 after this series is complete.

I always appreciate your help Jason! :nod: We have some good guys at our track (Rick-yodog, Brian, Chris and more) to help newbies like me! My buddy should be joining the novice class soon. When there's a lot of help, it just attracts more racers! :tire:

Nick, I am always glad to help anyone that I can. I am still learning and think guys like Rick and others are years beyond my skills and experience. They are the ones I turn to when I need it. Just glad to help where I can as it helps bring more racers into the hobby like you said.

Jason

K this is perhaps were I am confused. When I got the car the motor in there was held in place with a motor screw behind the spur. That's why I was pulling the spur out today, and I put my motor in there with a motor screw in the front hole and the bottom hole closer to the chassis. Otherwise how do you adjust tooth mesh? Am I doing something wrong?

VW, My motor screws are in the 2 slots in the motor mount. This allows for sliding the motor. The process I use to mesh using the 2 slots is:
1. to pull the spur screws and lift the spur up showing the aft motor screw.
2. Loosen the aft screw just enough to allow the motor to slide but not so loose as its sloppy.
3. Re-install and adjust mesh till happy.
4. Tighten the forward screw snug enough to hold the motor in place.
5. Repeat step #1
6. Tighten aft screw and forward screw to your satisfaction.
7. Re-install spur and done.

May seem like a long drawn out way of doing it but after a time or 2 you get fast at it. I can do this now within 5 minutes.

Jason

P.S. Nick I guess I do mess with the spur gear screws more than I realise. Guess I am just lucky i haven't had an issue yet.