20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
03-18-2013, 08:10 AM
#8971
For ChadB
The most important thing in TC6 is to check the chassis tweak with a good set up tool, how the shock absorbers work in dry as in running order and ceck the rear diff. work.( see my tip above by Keven )
RSD upgrade give a good result in all round work (o-ring, piston, bladders); take a set up by Keven, Rick or Olly Jefferies depending on the track and condition, and now go faster and easy.
Enrico
The most important thing in TC6 is to check the chassis tweak with a good set up tool, how the shock absorbers work in dry as in running order and ceck the rear diff. work.( see my tip above by Keven )
RSD upgrade give a good result in all round work (o-ring, piston, bladders); take a set up by Keven, Rick or Olly Jefferies depending on the track and condition, and now go faster and easy.
Enrico
I too made sure there was no tweak, using an actual tweak setup gauge. Make sure it's level too
03-18-2013, 08:15 AM
#8972
WOW! the servo saver cams are very popular. 
Thanks to those who bought them. At this time they are sold out till I make the next batch. I will make twice as many next week but if you are in a hurry and you don't mind them being natural aluminum color, they will be ready to ship by Tuesday. I don't recall if I mentioned that you will need to grind off about 2.5mm of the threads off of the stock Associated short ball stud to allow for clearance of the top deck. see the picture below for an example.
I am working on a source for a ball stud that I can include with the cam at no additional cost. I would suggest picking up some of the Reflex Racing shorty aluminum ball studs from Cristian. they only need about 0.5mm removed and they are aluminum.
Thanks to those who bought them. At this time they are sold out till I make the next batch. I will make twice as many next week but if you are in a hurry and you don't mind them being natural aluminum color, they will be ready to ship by Tuesday. I don't recall if I mentioned that you will need to grind off about 2.5mm of the threads off of the stock Associated short ball stud to allow for clearance of the top deck. see the picture below for an example.
I am working on a source for a ball stud that I can include with the cam at no additional cost. I would suggest picking up some of the Reflex Racing shorty aluminum ball studs from Cristian. they only need about 0.5mm removed and they are aluminum.
As for the car, I ran it yesterday. The steering definitely had a better feel to it. More steering response, on initial turn-in. I'm very pleased with the results. Thanks again!
03-18-2013, 12:05 PM
#8973
For ChadB
The most important thing in TC6 is to check the chassis tweak with a good set up tool, how the shock absorbers work in dry as in running order and ceck the rear diff. work.( see my tip above by Keven )
RSD upgrade give a good result in all round work (o-ring, piston, bladders); take a set up by Keven, Rick or Olly Jefferies depending on the track and condition, and now go faster and easy.
Enrico
The most important thing in TC6 is to check the chassis tweak with a good set up tool, how the shock absorbers work in dry as in running order and ceck the rear diff. work.( see my tip above by Keven )
RSD upgrade give a good result in all round work (o-ring, piston, bladders); take a set up by Keven, Rick or Olly Jefferies depending on the track and condition, and now go faster and easy.
Enrico
I built the car from scratch using the manuals set up as far offsets on the arms from the chassis blocks, also on the steering crank too. I run on asphalt, so it's going to differ for you. But I used an entire huddy setup system in setting up my car. Ride height is 5mm all around. Camber in front is 2 degrees, 1.5 in the rear. Front tow is 1 degree out. Droop is 6mm in the front, and 5 in the rear. Again I ran rsd shocks setups (much smoother) all in the standard setup positions that are in the manual. Same with the sway bars. Hope this helps ya out. Many of the racers at NorCal rund tc6, X-ray, and other major brands. I'd talk to those who have your car there too. I'm sure it's gonna be different for carpet. Don't give up!
03-18-2013, 09:48 PM
#8979
Ryan, the ball stud goes on the underside of the servo saver arm just like in your picture. However it looks like you are using a tall ball stud rather than the short one. It has to be short as there is not much room. Also you want to make sure that you connect the turnbuckle ball end to the ball stud prior to building the servo saver assembly.
03-18-2013, 10:00 PM
#8980
Ryan, the ball stud goes on the underside of the servo saver arm just like in your picture. However it looks like you are using a tall ball stud rather than the short one. It has to be short as there is not much room. Also you want to make sure that you connect the turnbuckle ball end to the ball stud prior to building the servo saver assembly.
03-18-2013, 10:01 PM
#8981
Guys, it has come to my attention that I may have shipped some servo mounts without having drilled the countersink for the antenna mount attachment. this will have no effect on those who either won't be relocating the antenna to the servo mount or using a low profile servo. A button head screw can be used instead of a flat head in this location. If you are using a standard sized servo and intend to relocate your antenna mount, you will need to countersink the inner most hole for the antenna mount, on the under side of the carbon plate. I'm really sorry for the mix up guys. If this creates a problem, I will be happy to mail out a replacement plate that has the hole countersunk.
03-19-2013, 01:57 AM
#8984
Tech Adept
This is kinda for Chad but also for everyone else dealing with a loose rear, one thing that I have found in my short time racing electric TC is sometimes the norm doesn't work, where we race our track is loose and I mean loose, so it is hard to get the rear planted, I battled with setup to sort this out and everything said to soften the rear, which is correct to an extent, what we found was that we weren't getting enough weight transferred to the tires as the suspension was absorbing a lot of the transfer, try stiffening the shocks a little buy standing them up or increasing the oil weight in them, thus a little more traction is developed on initial throttle tip in, that quick transfer of weight is deployed straight to the wheels adding traction, this effect can also be increased by adding more roll with stiffer shocks, but do make small adjustments first, to tune your traction you first have to have traction, a good indication is to look at how your tires scrub up after a run.
03-19-2013, 06:19 AM
#8985
I've been searching, but haven't quite found what I'm looking for. What are the benefits to mounting the servo sideways? Is the real benefit that the servo is away from the chassis and, therefore, not restricting the chassis from flexing? Are there other benefits I'm missing? Can someone provide a brief explanation? I'm intrigued at the concept, but am not one to just go buy parts unless I understand the principle behind them.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!