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Old 01-20-2013, 09:56 AM
  #8611  
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Originally Posted by YoDog
The 6.1WC is the latest but if associated sticks to their usual revision schedule, you can bet something new is on the horizon. It may not be till next fall though.
Has any of the team guys been running any different parts on the car? If they're still running mostly stock parts I wouldn't worry about a new car any time soon.

Bill D.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:10 AM
  #8612  
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I just bought the TC6.1 Factory team kit put it together. I plan on running a 17.5 motor but some guys at my track are telling me I should put in the X-ray spur gear. They tell me the reason for this is to get better speed because I can't put in a big enough pinion gear for the stock spur. Any help before I go any further?
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:29 AM
  #8613  
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Originally Posted by TonyD.
I just bought the TC6.1 Factory team kit put it together. I plan on running a 17.5 motor but some guys at my track are telling me I should put in the X-ray spur gear. They tell me the reason for this is to get better speed because I can't put in a big enough pinion gear for the stock spur. Any help before I go any further?
I am not sure why the use of an Xray spur gear should change anything. But you can check the fitting pairs here:
http://abram.eu.org/gear_tc6.php
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:35 AM
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Default It does not have to be an Xray Spur Gear

Originally Posted by TonyD.
I just bought the TC6.1 Factory team kit put it together. I plan on running a 17.5 motor but some guys at my track are telling me I should put in the X-ray spur gear. They tell me the reason for this is to get better speed because I can't put in a big enough pinion gear for the stock spur. Any help before I go any further?
It really does not matter what brand of gear you run as long as it has the correct hole patter for the TC6. I personally run these gears:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVTA3&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXATHX&P=7

I also run the trinity 64 pitch pinion gears myself but any of them work well.

If you are looking for a good range of gears for your car in 17.5 i would suggest having the following on hand:

96 Tooth Spur
100 Tooth Spur
46 - 54 Tooth Pinions

I bounce back and forth between 96/47 & 96/48 depending on motor timing with my D3 or D3.5 motors on a smaller 34x70 track carpet track. If you are running much larger track you may need a few bigger pinions yet or go to a little smaller spur yet.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:50 AM
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The Track size we run is 66x40. This is my1st on road car. So I'm still learning. I would like to go to the Roar Nat's in march. I will be running The Hobby Wing Justock esc and a trinity monster 17.5 locked motor, esc has 0 timing. Just stock.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:05 PM
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Default Great Starting Point

Originally Posted by TonyD.
The Track size we run is 66x40. This is my1st on road car. So I'm still learning. I would like to go to the Roar Nat's in march. I will be running The Hobby Wing Justock esc and a trinity monster 17.5 locked motor, esc has 0 timing. Just stock.
Tony,

I would suggest this for a great general starting point with being new to the on-road Scene.

1. Start with Kit Setup or with the following for chassis setup:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...stock_2012.pdf

However the above setup works really well with stock springs all around with Number 2 pistons and stand shocks up 2 more holes on tower all the way around from setupsheet.

2. The monster lock motor will be great for getting started and for the track size and motor combo I would suggest starting at 96/46 gearing. Most likely once you get the car settled in and are able to run consistent laps your motor temps should be in the 130s to 140s. So then you will be able to gear up for a little more speed with a 47 or 48 tooth pinion, but keep eye on temps.

The only real challenge I see you having at some point is once you have everything going well the Monster lock 17.5 (GREAT Motor, basically a D3 with locked endbell) you will not have the ability to turn the motor time up to pick up some more straight away speed. So when you are ready you may want to upgrade to a motor with adjustable timing once you have everything else sorted out.

Hope this helps and good luck!

Alan
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JFuel11
Tony,

I would suggest this for a great general starting point with being new to the on-road Scene.

1. Start with Kit Setup or with the following for chassis setup:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...stock_2012.pdf

However the above setup works really well with stock springs all around with Number 2 pistons and stand shocks up 2 more holes on tower all the way around from setupsheet.

2. The monster lock motor will be great for getting started and for the track size and motor combo I would suggest starting at 96/46 gearing. Most likely once you get the car settled in and are able to run consistent laps your motor temps should be in the 130s to 140s. So then you will be able to gear up for a little more speed with a 47 or 48 tooth pinion, but keep eye on temps.

The only real challenge I see you having at some point is once you have everything going well the Monster lock 17.5 (GREAT Motor, basically a D3 with locked endbell) you will not have the ability to turn the motor time up to pick up some more straight away speed. So when you are ready you may want to upgrade to a motor with adjustable timing once you have everything else sorted out.

Hope this helps and good luck!

Alan
Alan thanx for the tip i will go with that to start. I will keep you posted on my progress
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:44 PM
  #8618  
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You want to get to a good final drive ratio in your car. The brand of spur gears does NOT matter. I prefer 48 pitch spur gears. In my car, I am using a 75 tooth spur, and a 37 tooth pinion. Both 48 pitch. The TC6.1 has an internal drive ratio of 2:1. That means, your wheels turn once for every two revolutions of the spur gear. So, to find out your final drive ratio:

Spur gear teeth divided by pinion teeth times internal drive ratio. My car FDR looks like this:
75/37 * 2 = 4.054 FDR.

That's a pretty quick setup. The lower the FDR, the more top end speed you will have and less acceleration. A lower FDR will also make your motor run hotter as it is having to work harder to move your car. I run my car on carpet in 17.5 blinky mode and that's a pretty good FDR for me. It's definitely fast. All you need to change, is the teeth on the gears. You can adjust either one. In 48 pitch gears, you can get a pretty good range with 72T, 75T and 77T spurs. Get some pinions from 34T to 40T. That will give you a FDR range from 4.53 to 3.60. I'd start out with a higher FDR and tune from there. I'd start with the 75T spur and adjust pinions first. The pinions are a lot easier to change out than the spur gears. To change the spur, you have to pull the top deck off, remove spur assembly, and then disassemble that. It's a job I'd probably do at home rather than at the track.

I like the Kimbrough brand gears. It's what comes in the kit if I'm not mistaken.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-75T

I like the Robinson Racing pinions as well. Never had an issue with these gears.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inion-Gear-37T
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:52 PM
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I just saw the link above to the chart with the gear ratios. That is fantastic. I forgot to mention that you can get gear combos that will get you in the right FDR range, but that will not physically fit into your car. That chart shows you what will fit in the car. For example, if you wanted a 3.85 FDR, the 77T spur and 40T pinion would get you there. Unfortunately, the two gears are too big to actually fit together in the car. Instead, you could use a 75T spur and 39T pinion to get the same FDR. Both gears are smaller in diameter and will fit in the car. Bookmark that chart to your favorites.

You will want different FDRs depending on what class you're racing, whether timing is allowed or not, and the type of motor you are running. But for 17.5 Blinky, somewhere between 3.80 and 4.50 is a good range in my opinion. If it's a really fast track, go with a lower FDR. If it's tight and twisty, pick something higher. Regardless, I'd start out with a higher FDR in the 4.50 range and go down from there. Start with that 75T spur, and 34T pinion.

Find out what FDR the other guys in your club are running. Some people just don't understand gear ratios or the FDR, but you can figure it out by knowing their gear ratios and the internal ratio of their car. Find another TC6.1 and just find out what gears they are running. It doesn't matter if it is 48P or 64P gears. The math is still the same. Some cars have different internal ratios. For example, my son's TC4 has a 2.5 internal ratio. So, you'd take his spur gear, divide by pinion gear and multiply by 2.5.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:18 AM
  #8620  
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Hey fellas,

I could use some suggestions... I've been racing in a spec class locally (27t brushed motor/spec ESC), but it appears we're going to start up a USGT class soon. Since we will be able to run 21.5 motors (in blinky mode), I'm really up in the air with regards to gearing.

I've read that I should be in the 3.4-3.6 range for our relatively large outdoor track. With my 96t spur, that would require a ~55t pinion. Before I buy an assortment of pinions, can anyone tell me if they'll fit with my 96t spur? Or should I use a smaller spur to ensure a good mesh? I'm not sure how much range the stock motor mount has.

Also, I'm running a Thunder Power 21.5 motor. Can anyone recommend a good timing position to start with? I suspect some motors like more timing/less gear and others may like less timimg/more gear. Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:22 AM
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Well, shoot! I just looked at the link wtcc posted. Thanks a lot! That shows what will fit in my car and is just what I was looking for. I'm still interested in feedback on timing/gearing, though. So if anyone has thoughts on that, please feel free to chime in!
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:57 AM
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Tc6 tip.

This weekend I was frustrated by my servo saver loosening yet again.

I removed the spring and used the nut to lock my bellcrank assembly.
The change in the cars feel and prescision was truly staggering.
Extremely precise and direct. I will likely go through more servos however given the dramatic improvement in handling, well worth it.

Try this if you haven't already.

Dave.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:25 AM
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+1 on the 96 Spur (RW Racing Supalite V2) and gearing recomendations, also allows for a wide range FDR without having to change Spur Gear. I also use 96/48 gearing for 17.5 TC and some motors up to a 52 Pinion.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:31 AM
  #8624  
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Originally Posted by mtbboy
Tc6 tip.

This weekend I was frustrated by my servo saver loosening yet again.

I removed the spring and used the nut to lock my bellcrank assembly.
The change in the cars feel and prescision was truly staggering.
Extremely precise and direct. I will likely go through more servos however given the dramatic improvement in handling, well worth it.

Try this if you haven't already.

Dave.
Why not replace with new parts and apply thread lock or just apply some thread lock?

Originally Posted by rangerjkb
+1 on the 96 Spur (RW Racing Supalite V2) and gearing recomendations, also allows for a wide range FDR without having to change Spur Gear. I also use 96/48 gearing for 17.5 TC and some motors up to a 52 Pinion.
I'm using a 96T Spur and 54T pinion. You should be able to go up to a 58T or 60T.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:55 PM
  #8625  
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DO you guys use the sway bars?
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