20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
11-10-2012, 08:52 PM
#8026
11-11-2012, 04:49 AM
#8027
Have you tried coating the O Ring with AE Green Slime? I found this preserves the O Ring and really reduces stiction.
Otherwise you are doing something wrong because these are the best shocks AE ever made and about on par with Tamiya TRF shocks (essentially the same build).
Otherwise you are doing something wrong because these are the best shocks AE ever made and about on par with Tamiya TRF shocks (essentially the same build).
The problem actually is the shock itself. The shock shaft has the lines on it from where it has been lathed and it has left small serrations all along the shock shafts ( I can try and take a photo of this if anyone is interested). When the shock is built, the serrations are grabbing on the spacers and o-ring and making feel like its full of air and 80+ shock oil.
Now for the million dollar question... Anyone else had a similar problem? Run your finger nail along the shock shaft... Mine are rediculously rough. I took them around to a mate and he couldn't believe it.
Good shocks? I received the lemons.
Thanks again for your help everyone... Much appreciated.
11-11-2012, 12:18 PM
#8030
Tech Initiate
Thanks for your help everyone. I've found the problem, and it's not me. I sanded down the spaces a fraction, rebuilt the shocks AGAIN with all the RSD parts and they were still really bad. I've been racing tourers since 2000, so this has had me stumped.
The problem actually is the shock itself. The shock shaft has the lines on it from where it has been lathed and it has left small serrations all along the shock shafts ( I can try and take a photo of this if anyone is interested). When the shock is built, the serrations are grabbing on the spacers and o-ring and making feel like its full of air and 80+ shock oil.
Now for the million dollar question... Anyone else had a similar problem? Run your finger nail along the shock shaft... Mine are rediculously rough. I took them around to a mate and he couldn't believe it.
Good shocks? I received the lemons.
Thanks again for your help everyone... Much appreciated.
The problem actually is the shock itself. The shock shaft has the lines on it from where it has been lathed and it has left small serrations all along the shock shafts ( I can try and take a photo of this if anyone is interested). When the shock is built, the serrations are grabbing on the spacers and o-ring and making feel like its full of air and 80+ shock oil.
Now for the million dollar question... Anyone else had a similar problem? Run your finger nail along the shock shaft... Mine are rediculously rough. I took them around to a mate and he couldn't believe it.
Good shocks? I received the lemons.
Thanks again for your help everyone... Much appreciated.
11-11-2012, 01:46 PM
#8031
Tech Initiate
this is what I'm running in mine,
http://www.amazon.com/Prismacolor-Kn...ble+Art+Eraser
alot of people will refer to diff putty as well, it's the same stuff.
I guess that people are using the silicone ear plugs now to get the same effect.
http://www.amazon.com/Prismacolor-Kn...ble+Art+Eraser
alot of people will refer to diff putty as well, it's the same stuff.
I guess that people are using the silicone ear plugs now to get the same effect.
How is it working for you?
11-11-2012, 04:40 PM
#8032
Tech Adept
I have heard of people having problems with their kits. Some guy posted about having hinge pins that were oversize. For me it was just a few screws missing and or having the wrong screw length. Or at least that's all I found. I know my diff isn't as smooth as I would want but I am hoping it will be smoother once I break it in on the track.
11-11-2012, 05:40 PM
#8033
Thanks for your help everyone. I've found the problem, and it's not me. I sanded down the spaces a fraction, rebuilt the shocks AGAIN with all the RSD parts and they were still really bad. I've been racing tourers since 2000, so this has had me stumped.
The problem actually is the shock itself. The shock shaft has the lines on it from where it has been lathed and it has left small serrations all along the shock shafts ( I can try and take a photo of this if anyone is interested). When the shock is built, the serrations are grabbing on the spacers and o-ring and making feel like its full of air and 80+ shock oil.
Now for the million dollar question... Anyone else had a similar problem? Run your finger nail along the shock shaft... Mine are rediculously rough. I took them around to a mate and he couldn't believe it.
Good shocks? I received the lemons.
Thanks again for your help everyone... Much appreciated.
The problem actually is the shock itself. The shock shaft has the lines on it from where it has been lathed and it has left small serrations all along the shock shafts ( I can try and take a photo of this if anyone is interested). When the shock is built, the serrations are grabbing on the spacers and o-ring and making feel like its full of air and 80+ shock oil.
Now for the million dollar question... Anyone else had a similar problem? Run your finger nail along the shock shaft... Mine are rediculously rough. I took them around to a mate and he couldn't believe it.
Good shocks? I received the lemons.
Thanks again for your help everyone... Much appreciated.
11-11-2012, 06:42 PM
#8034
Tech Regular
I'm having quality issues with my 6.1WC shock bodies, seems to me manufacturing process is not well taken care of and the threads are badly formed.
All 4 of the shocks requires excessive force to thread on before it will work past the initial 1/4 to 1/3 of the body. once it's past that, it turns smoothly.
2 of the shock bodies are so badly cut and i will not consider them to be of usable quality at all.
The rest of the build works out pretty well though.
Now i'm waiting for AE to respond to my email if they would grant me replacements.
All 4 of the shocks requires excessive force to thread on before it will work past the initial 1/4 to 1/3 of the body. once it's past that, it turns smoothly.
2 of the shock bodies are so badly cut and i will not consider them to be of usable quality at all.
The rest of the build works out pretty well though.
Now i'm waiting for AE to respond to my email if they would grant me replacements.
11-11-2012, 07:27 PM
#8035
Remove the bladders and see if the issue persists. I found that the cap was trying to draw the bladders with it causing the symptoms you are describing.
When threading these on or when threading anything for that matter, turn the cap counter clockwise until you feel a gentle click then begin threading.
D.
When threading these on or when threading anything for that matter, turn the cap counter clockwise until you feel a gentle click then begin threading.
D.
11-11-2012, 08:03 PM
#8036
Thanks for the suggestions, I've tried fitting them even before any assembly.
It's clearly a manufacturing issue on mine
It's clearly a manufacturing issue on mine
11-12-2012, 01:03 AM
#8039
Hi,
last weekend i tried my new tc6.1ft for the first time. I really like the feel and how the car drives.
I have only one problem: the suspension blocks tend to unscrew from the bulkheads during the run, introducing lot of play. I had to tighten up the blocks after each and every run. Even if i used red loctite threadlock. It is very annoying.
Before the tc6.1 i had a top photon, which uses the same suspension blocks system, and never had an issues with it.
Any advice?
Mattia.
last weekend i tried my new tc6.1ft for the first time. I really like the feel and how the car drives.
I have only one problem: the suspension blocks tend to unscrew from the bulkheads during the run, introducing lot of play. I had to tighten up the blocks after each and every run. Even if i used red loctite threadlock. It is very annoying.
Before the tc6.1 i had a top photon, which uses the same suspension blocks system, and never had an issues with it.
Any advice?
Mattia.
11-12-2012, 05:06 AM
#8040
Hi,
last weekend i tried my new tc6.1ft for the first time. I really like the feel and how the car drives.
I have only one problem: the suspension blocks tend to unscrew from the bulkheads during the run, introducing lot of play. I had to tighten up the blocks after each and every run. Even if i used red loctite threadlock. It is very annoying.
Before the tc6.1 i had a top photon, which uses the same suspension blocks system, and never had an issues with it.
Any advice?
Mattia.
last weekend i tried my new tc6.1ft for the first time. I really like the feel and how the car drives.
I have only one problem: the suspension blocks tend to unscrew from the bulkheads during the run, introducing lot of play. I had to tighten up the blocks after each and every run. Even if i used red loctite threadlock. It is very annoying.
Before the tc6.1 i had a top photon, which uses the same suspension blocks system, and never had an issues with it.
Any advice?
Mattia.
Maybe a longer screw with a nut on the back.