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Old 11-10-2012, 08:52 PM
  #8026  
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Originally Posted by KC10Chief
Thanks for the quick info! That makes a lot more sense. My kit came with pins and hexes. Do I need different ones for some reason? My kit is the world's car, BTW.
You need different ones. The dcjs use 2mm pins.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by AreCee
Have you tried coating the O Ring with AE Green Slime? I found this preserves the O Ring and really reduces stiction.

Otherwise you are doing something wrong because these are the best shocks AE ever made and about on par with Tamiya TRF shocks (essentially the same build).
Thanks for your help everyone. I've found the problem, and it's not me. I sanded down the spaces a fraction, rebuilt the shocks AGAIN with all the RSD parts and they were still really bad. I've been racing tourers since 2000, so this has had me stumped.
The problem actually is the shock itself. The shock shaft has the lines on it from where it has been lathed and it has left small serrations all along the shock shafts ( I can try and take a photo of this if anyone is interested). When the shock is built, the serrations are grabbing on the spacers and o-ring and making feel like its full of air and 80+ shock oil.

Now for the million dollar question... Anyone else had a similar problem? Run your finger nail along the shock shaft... Mine are rediculously rough. I took them around to a mate and he couldn't believe it.

Good shocks? I received the lemons.

Thanks again for your help everyone... Much appreciated.
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:02 AM
  #8028  
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Well my shock shafts were fine but one of the bottom caps in the kit lacked threads so I had to wait for AE to replace it.
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AreCee
Well my shock shafts were fine but one of the bottom caps in the kit lacked threads so I had to wait for AE to replace it.
Thank you so much for your speedy replies.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Shev
Thanks for your help everyone. I've found the problem, and it's not me. I sanded down the spaces a fraction, rebuilt the shocks AGAIN with all the RSD parts and they were still really bad. I've been racing tourers since 2000, so this has had me stumped.
The problem actually is the shock itself. The shock shaft has the lines on it from where it has been lathed and it has left small serrations all along the shock shafts ( I can try and take a photo of this if anyone is interested). When the shock is built, the serrations are grabbing on the spacers and o-ring and making feel like its full of air and 80+ shock oil.

Now for the million dollar question... Anyone else had a similar problem? Run your finger nail along the shock shaft... Mine are rediculously rough. I took them around to a mate and he couldn't believe it.

Good shocks? I received the lemons.

Thanks again for your help everyone... Much appreciated.
I have heard of people having problems with their kits. Some guy posted about having hinge pins that were oversize. For me it was just a few screws missing and or having the wrong screw length. Or at least that's all I found. I know my diff isn't as smooth as I would want but I am hoping it will be smoother once I break it in on the track.
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:46 PM
  #8031  
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Originally Posted by briankstan
this is what I'm running in mine,

http://www.amazon.com/Prismacolor-Kn...ble+Art+Eraser

alot of people will refer to diff putty as well, it's the same stuff.

I guess that people are using the silicone ear plugs now to get the same effect.
Nice! I'm going to get some. It's much cheaper than buying the 300k or 500k silicone diff oil they try to sell at 15$ for a small jar!
How is it working for you?
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:40 PM
  #8032  
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Originally Posted by EvetsFidrat
I have heard of people having problems with their kits. Some guy posted about having hinge pins that were oversize. For me it was just a few screws missing and or having the wrong screw length. Or at least that's all I found. I know my diff isn't as smooth as I would want but I am hoping it will be smoother once I break it in on the track.
Same, had some missing screws and in fact my spare gear diff I bought for the front is super smooth but my kit-supplied rear is not nearly as smooth, and I built them exactly the same other than the oil. Glad to know I'm not the only one.
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Shev
Thanks for your help everyone. I've found the problem, and it's not me. I sanded down the spaces a fraction, rebuilt the shocks AGAIN with all the RSD parts and they were still really bad. I've been racing tourers since 2000, so this has had me stumped.
The problem actually is the shock itself. The shock shaft has the lines on it from where it has been lathed and it has left small serrations all along the shock shafts ( I can try and take a photo of this if anyone is interested). When the shock is built, the serrations are grabbing on the spacers and o-ring and making feel like its full of air and 80+ shock oil.

Now for the million dollar question... Anyone else had a similar problem? Run your finger nail along the shock shaft... Mine are rediculously rough. I took them around to a mate and he couldn't believe it.

Good shocks? I received the lemons.

Thanks again for your help everyone... Much appreciated.
If your shock shafts are bad call AE. They have always been really good about getting stuff taken care of in my experience.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:42 PM
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I'm having quality issues with my 6.1WC shock bodies, seems to me manufacturing process is not well taken care of and the threads are badly formed.

All 4 of the shocks requires excessive force to thread on before it will work past the initial 1/4 to 1/3 of the body. once it's past that, it turns smoothly.

2 of the shock bodies are so badly cut and i will not consider them to be of usable quality at all.

The rest of the build works out pretty well though.
Now i'm waiting for AE to respond to my email if they would grant me replacements.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC6 Thread-tc6.1-shocks.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-tc6.1-shocks2.jpg  
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:27 PM
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Remove the bladders and see if the issue persists. I found that the cap was trying to draw the bladders with it causing the symptoms you are describing.

When threading these on or when threading anything for that matter, turn the cap counter clockwise until you feel a gentle click then begin threading.


D.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:03 PM
  #8036  
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Thanks for the suggestions, I've tried fitting them even before any assembly.
It's clearly a manufacturing issue on mine
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RadioControl-Sp
Thanks for the suggestions, I've tried fitting them even before any assembly.
It's clearly a manufacturing issue on mine
I had similar issues. I was very careful putting mine together... thankfully, mine worked out with the shock bodies. But the shafts are useless.
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014
You need different ones. The dcjs use 2mm pins.
Yeah. I noticed that. Reflex Racing has the DCJs in stock but not the pins or the hex nuts. Is there anywhere else that I can order these from that has everything in stock? Living in Alaska, I only like to pay shipping charges once!
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:03 AM
  #8039  
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Hi,

last weekend i tried my new tc6.1ft for the first time. I really like the feel and how the car drives.
I have only one problem: the suspension blocks tend to unscrew from the bulkheads during the run, introducing lot of play. I had to tighten up the blocks after each and every run. Even if i used red loctite threadlock. It is very annoying.
Before the tc6.1 i had a top photon, which uses the same suspension blocks system, and never had an issues with it.

Any advice?

Mattia.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by aittam
Hi,

last weekend i tried my new tc6.1ft for the first time. I really like the feel and how the car drives.
I have only one problem: the suspension blocks tend to unscrew from the bulkheads during the run, introducing lot of play. I had to tighten up the blocks after each and every run. Even if i used red loctite threadlock. It is very annoying.
Before the tc6.1 i had a top photon, which uses the same suspension blocks system, and never had an issues with it.

Any advice?

Mattia.

Maybe a longer screw with a nut on the back.
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