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Old 12-27-2011, 01:53 PM
  #5176  
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
Yes, it is the AE Bearings. Use a hobby knife and score the inside of the hub, I do an asterisk pattern. This should make the bearing "press in" instead of dropping in.

it seems other brand bearings are better fitting, but most people still score the Hubs. Don't know how the 6.1's are though...
I've had great luck with Avid bearings.... completely did my TC6 and TC3. You can't beat the price!
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Old 12-27-2011, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
Yes, it is the AE Bearings. Use a hobby knife and score the inside of the hub, I do an asterisk pattern. This should make the bearing "press in" instead of dropping in.

it seems other brand bearings are better fitting, but most people still score the Hubs. Don't know how the 6.1's are though...
6.1's press in nice and are snug, no play. The plastic fit and finished has been greatly improved.
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Old 12-27-2011, 02:29 PM
  #5178  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOk-s...e_gdata_player


Thats the slop in my fresh build, not even turned a wheel yet :-/
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke Hobson
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOk-s...e_gdata_player


Thats the slop in my fresh build, not even turned a wheel yet :-/
Did you glue the inserts in on the rear hubs? Gluing the inserts in took out a bunch of play in my car.
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:05 PM
  #5180  
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Default Gear diff building

Just to share my experience in building the gear diff, when I first put it together, as usuall tighten all screw in a pattern and noticed the wrap, the feeling was not great. Then I realize that if we tighten the screw all the way down, there are some areas will have higher pressure at the seal and some will be lesser or not much at all, just like a bow. So I took a gamble by just tighten all screw evenly to about 80%, just before the deform appears. Because the bit that stick out to touch with the seal is quite high, so I guess that's why it defirem when screw fully tighten, it will wrap.

And the reasult is a leak free diff
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:07 PM
  #5181  
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Originally Posted by cwoods34
You can run really long screws from the inside of the spur bulkhead towards the edge of the chassis, then fasten it with small locknuts..... it won't come loose that way

Thanks I shell try that
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014
Did you glue the inserts in on the rear hubs? Gluing the inserts in took out a bunch of play in my car.
At the rear I have slop at the inner hinge pin on one side, and little slop on the hub for both side, and that's it. It's either the hinge pin, or the arm, I suspected is the hinge pin.

Cheers
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:46 PM
  #5183  
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Originally Posted by durtbag
Just rebuilt my shocks and used Tamiya TRF #53576 bladders.....wow the difference is amazing. the Tamiya bladders are so much softer than the kit ones.
Oh, and I have been using the Tamiya clear bottom o-rings for a while and they rock too!
I shall try the bladder
But when I try using the clear oring from Tamiya it was quite tight, and make the shock shaft need a bit of force to move it. Does the oring have different size from Tamiya?
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Warbird
I shall try the bladder
But when I try using the clear oring from Tamiya it was quite tight, and make the shock shaft need a bit of force to move it. Does the oring have different size from Tamiya?
When my friend first got his kit, I tried the tamiya o ring, and indeed it was too tight. If you are looking for another o ring, get something made for AE cars (GS, acer, etc). Although I must say I use the kit o rings (with some green slime) and have had absolutely no issues.

if you want a softer bladder, RSD makes a great one (and its specific for teh tc6 shock )
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke Hobson
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOk-s...e_gdata_player


Thats the slop in my fresh build, not even turned a wheel yet :-/
did you try any shims between the outer bearing and the drive pin? Using a minimal amount of shimming I was able to get rid of almost all the slop in my 6.0.
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:19 PM
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Default part help

I am buying a tc5r, and was reading about the tc6 and some parts are the same, compatable. Will the arm mounts on the tc6 fit the tc5r??
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Old 12-28-2011, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
I am buying a tc5r, and was reading about the tc6 and some parts are the same, compatable. Will the arm mounts on the tc6 fit the tc5r??
Yes the 4 corners are the same on 6 and 5, you should even be able to use the 6.1 arms on 5.
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Old 12-28-2011, 04:06 AM
  #5188  
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Originally Posted by Luke Hobson
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOk-s...e_gdata_player


Thats the slop in my fresh build, not even turned a wheel yet :-/
OMG..i was just thinking to buy the tc6.1 and i saw this post..hmmm thanks for the vid. maybe i'll stick with the 417x.
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Old 12-28-2011, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by xenite400bhp
OMG..i was just thinking to buy the tc6.1 and i saw this post..hmmm thanks for the vid. maybe i'll stick with the 417x.
The slop I saw in the video is nothing compare to a brand new TA06 that I still have today, it actually uses most 416/417 suspension parts, to fix it we have to put Square ball cup to get rid of some of the slop.

And yes, some kits have more slop, and some have less, but to me this TC6.1 is on the lesser side. That's just my first hand experience.

Cheers
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Old 12-28-2011, 04:41 AM
  #5190  
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Default Spec R Yokomo DCJ for TC 6.1

Hi there

Just wanted to know if the Spec R DCJ for yokomo will fit TC6.1?
Many thanks!!
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