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Old 12-24-2011, 06:04 PM
  #5146  
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Originally Posted by hanzo3
My M3x8 screw from the bottom that conects the C hub to the steering block always gets loose. How to fix it? I lost screws on both sides at once. I have changed my steering blocks too.
Back off 1/2 to 1 thread from full tight? At least that's what I wold do.
 
Old 12-24-2011, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by piper48
Back off 1/2 to 1 thread from full tight? At least that's what I wold do.
+1, sneak up on it and check every run.

PS, Merry Christmas buddy!
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Old 12-25-2011, 05:13 AM
  #5148  
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i use the hot bodies hexes they are expensive but when i up graded my tc6 used two there and two on the 6.1 beacuse came in 4 pack
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:14 AM
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Anyone know which bottom spring cups will work with yokomo springs. Stock are to small
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:43 AM
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Use the Yokomo plastic spring cups for the BD5.

Or, just run RSD springs :P
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:55 AM
  #5151  
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Just got 6.1, want to understand the rear toe combination related to rear hub insert, sus mount shim thickness. Is there a chart showing what I need? thx
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:07 AM
  #5152  
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Originally Posted by ioxqq
Just got 6.1, want to understand the rear toe combination related to rear hub insert, sus mount shim thickness. Is there a chart showing what I need? thx
ioxqq,

I would recommend starting out with the zero degree hub inserts for most conditions.

Every 0.85 mm of shimming different between the front and rear produces 1 degree of toe in.

Generally, I like running 3 degrees of toe in on the rear, and to produce this I would recommend starting out with either 0.5 mm shim in the front and 3.0 mm in the rear or 1.0 mm in the front and 3.5 mm in the rear ...both of these will yeild approximately 3 degrees of rear toe in.

Hope this helps!
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:36 AM
  #5153  
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
ioxqq,

I would recommend starting out with the zero degree hub inserts for most conditions.

Every 0.85 mm of shimming different between the front and rear produces 1 degree of toe in.

Generally, I like running 3 degrees of toe in on the rear, and to produce this I would recommend starting out with either 0.5 mm shim in the front and 3.0 mm in the rear or 1.0 mm in the front and 3.5 mm in the rear ...both of these will yeild approximately 3 degrees of rear toe in.

Hope this helps!
The new #31361 offset arm mounts already add 2mm of spacing so you would only need to add 0.5-1.5mm of washers to get the desired rear toe in. Correct?
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:26 PM
  #5154  
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Originally Posted by durtbag
The new #31361 offset arm mounts already add 2mm of spacing so you would only need to add 0.5-1.5mm of washers to get the desired rear toe in. Correct?
Yeah, the amount of desired toe in will dictate how much spacing you would need with an offset supsension mount in the rear-rear... I wouldn't recommend using an offset mount for the front-rear mount.

Maybe to be a little bit more clear:

Difference in spacing in front-rear toe in

0 0
0.5 0.58
0.75 0.88
0.85 1.0
1.0 1.17

...and you should be able to extrapolate further from here.

<<Sorry I can't seem to get it to format nicely >>

Last edited by Steve Weiss; 12-26-2011 at 12:28 PM. Reason: trying to correct format issues :(
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:04 PM
  #5155  
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question on the gear diff assembly

what will be difference in building the gear with only 2 inner gears (small ones) instead of 4 inner.

p.s.....the gear diff from the Kit does not seal properly....one of gear halves is not true (warped from manufacturing). I've reduced the leaking but will probably have to RTV it.
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by olhipster1
question on the gear diff assembly

what will be difference in building the gear with only 2 inner gears (small ones) instead of 4 inner.

p.s.....the gear diff from the Kit does not seal properly....one of gear halves is not true (warped from manufacturing). I've reduced the leaking but will probably have to RTV it.
Yeah, I've been in contact with AE about the defective case halves.......they just blew me off. Not likely to purchase anymore of their stuff, crappy customer service.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:57 PM
  #5157  
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Originally Posted by durtbag
Yeah, I've been in contact with AE about the defective case halves.......they just blew me off. Not likely to purchase anymore of their stuff, crappy customer service.
Who did you talk to at AE? That is the 1st time I've ever heard of such a thing
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:03 PM
  #5158  
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Originally Posted by Big Features
Who did you talk to at AE? That is the 1st time I've ever heard of such a thing
Donald Natale
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:07 PM
  #5159  
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Originally Posted by durtbag
The new #31361 offset arm mounts already add 2mm of spacing so you would only need to add 0.5-1.5mm of washers to get the desired rear toe in. Correct?
If I am not totally wrong the new offsets add 2,5mm. At least thats what I measured on my TC6.1 Kit. Used the Standard arm mount rear front and the offset rear rear, this gives me 3° Rear Toe measured with the Hudy Setup Station.

edit : using the 0° degree inserts
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:59 PM
  #5160  
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Steve Weiss, thanks.

I'm using default setting.

0 deg insert
rear front block no shim
rear rear block with offset no shim

This should give me 3 deg on the tow in.

If I want to be 3.5 rear toe? Add a 0.5mm shim on rear rear?

I really hope the is a chart showing all the combinations.
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