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Originally Posted by CristianTabush
(Post 10087505)
Yes, it is the AE Bearings. Use a hobby knife and score the inside of the hub, I do an asterisk pattern. This should make the bearing "press in" instead of dropping in.
it seems other brand bearings are better fitting, but most people still score the Hubs. Don't know how the 6.1's are though... |
Originally Posted by CristianTabush
(Post 10087505)
Yes, it is the AE Bearings. Use a hobby knife and score the inside of the hub, I do an asterisk pattern. This should make the bearing "press in" instead of dropping in.
it seems other brand bearings are better fitting, but most people still score the Hubs. Don't know how the 6.1's are though... |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOk-s...e_gdata_player
Thats the slop in my fresh build, not even turned a wheel yet :-/ |
Originally Posted by Luke Hobson
(Post 10087862)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOk-s...e_gdata_player
Thats the slop in my fresh build, not even turned a wheel yet :-/ |
Gear diff building
Just to share my experience in building the gear diff, when I first put it together, as usuall tighten all screw in a pattern and noticed the wrap, the feeling was not great. Then I realize that if we tighten the screw all the way down, there are some areas will have higher pressure at the seal and some will be lesser or not much at all, just like a bow. So I took a gamble by just tighten all screw evenly to about 80%, just before the deform appears. Because the bit that stick out to touch with the seal is quite high, so I guess that's why it defirem when screw fully tighten, it will wrap.
And the reasult is a leak free diff :) |
Originally Posted by cwoods34
(Post 10087723)
You can run really long screws from the inside of the spur bulkhead towards the edge of the chassis, then fasten it with small locknuts..... it won't come loose that way ;)
Thanks I shell try that :nod: |
Originally Posted by geeunit1014
(Post 10088166)
Did you glue the inserts in on the rear hubs? Gluing the inserts in took out a bunch of play in my car.
Cheers |
Originally Posted by durtbag
(Post 10087510)
Just rebuilt my shocks and used Tamiya TRF #53576 bladders.....wow the difference is amazing. the Tamiya bladders are so much softer than the kit ones.:nod:
Oh, and I have been using the Tamiya clear bottom o-rings for a while and they rock too! But when I try using the clear oring from Tamiya it was quite tight, and make the shock shaft need a bit of force to move it. Does the oring have different size from Tamiya? |
Originally Posted by Warbird
(Post 10089185)
I shall try the bladder :)
But when I try using the clear oring from Tamiya it was quite tight, and make the shock shaft need a bit of force to move it. Does the oring have different size from Tamiya? if you want a softer bladder, RSD makes a great one (and its specific for teh tc6 shock ;)) |
Originally Posted by Luke Hobson
(Post 10087862)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOk-s...e_gdata_player
Thats the slop in my fresh build, not even turned a wheel yet :-/ |
part help
I am buying a tc5r, and was reading about the tc6 and some parts are the same, compatable. Will the arm mounts on the tc6 fit the tc5r??
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
(Post 10089701)
I am buying a tc5r, and was reading about the tc6 and some parts are the same, compatable. Will the arm mounts on the tc6 fit the tc5r??
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Originally Posted by Luke Hobson
(Post 10087862)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOk-s...e_gdata_player
Thats the slop in my fresh build, not even turned a wheel yet :-/ |
Originally Posted by xenite400bhp
(Post 10090198)
OMG..i was just thinking to buy the tc6.1 and i saw this post..hmmm thanks for the vid. maybe i'll stick with the 417x. :nod:
And yes, some kits have more slop, and some have less, but to me this TC6.1 is on the lesser side. That's just my first hand experience. Cheers |
Spec R Yokomo DCJ for TC 6.1
Hi there
Just wanted to know if the Spec R DCJ for yokomo will fit TC6.1? Many thanks!!:) |
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