Search this and other Associated threads, and not just here on RCT. It's well documented to be hit or miss with those guys. Heck, they've run the extremes from full assembly parts sent out on just a say-so phone call, to giving out bogus tracking numbers for parts they supposedly sent multiple times.

Seems to have peaked with the first three runs of the original TC6.

Looks like not much has changed, no matter who you get on the other end of the phone, or who's name you drop.

Good idea to thread lock the motor mount
 

Hi all

Just happened to me twice today, the car have no break at full speed(6.5T with turbo at full) at the end of the straight because the motor was not in contact with the spur gear ! The first time was the chassis screw came off of the front of the motor mount. That time was lucky that I steer and hit a padding. The second time the side screw at the front motor mount came off, but this time it hit a square steel pole :(

Long story short, the only part that need replacing was the spur gear and the motor, as both the motor case and rotor have deformed.

But the car still good as new, chassis is still flat and no broken part, even the motor mount is still straight.

So now I have used slightly longer screws with thread lock.:nod:

Cheers

When I saw these posts last night, I thought to myself "they must not have to talked to Don." I was surpised when I saw this post. I've had countless AE cars, dating back to the 80s. I even worked for a distributor for some time, and haven't had a reason to call them about anything until a couple weeks ago. I bought an SC10 4x4, and it was missing a clutch spacer. When I called, I talked to Don, and he was super nice to me. I emailed him a copy of the receipt, and the part was in my mailbox, two days later.

It's a shame to hear when people have bad experiences with customer service. Those stories speak volumes to the would be customer.

As far as the diff halves........I agree, not the finest piece they've put out. Mine leaked and warped the first time I assembled it, too. I took it back apart a couple times and finally got it sealed. I walked the screws in super slow, and used a pattern for tightening, similar to how you would tighten lug nuts, making sure that no side was much tighter than the rest at any time.

Hopefully AE gets a better setup soon. Maybe Don was heading out to lunch when you called.......:lol: I know, not an excuse.

diff
 

i had the same problem with my diff and rebuilt it using the pattern and making sure it was seated properly while tightening the screws and all is well. My advice is to take your time and pay attention to detail while assembling the diff not that you haven't but i know i get anxious when i get close to being done.

The stock ball cup is not smooth. Want to know what is the choice of better ball cup? thx

You can follow the manual as it states to gently squeeze the ball cup with needle nose pliers(same trick has been around for years in the entire world of rc) to free it up.
Or you can take an old ball stud and make 4 marks (indentions) on the ball with wire strippers and put the ball into a dremel. Install ball cup on modified stud and spin for a few seconds. Be sure NOT to overheat the cup as it can happen quickly.:cry: When done, you will have a cup that fits nicely and is very smooth with no marks on the outside from squeezing it with pliers! :cool:

I too have owned several AE vehicles and I have always been treated great by customer service. NEVER A SINGLE PROBLEM WITH THEM!!!:)



Additionally, the deformation of the diff halves was an early production issue and it never caused any leaks on mine because the deformation is on the thin outer edge NOT where the halves seal. Search my posts as I posted a pic after installation. I ordered both of mine as soon as they were released and a friend at the track just purchased his two and they came in with no deformation what so ever.

Gear diffs take a lil tlc when building to ensure a proper seal. The rubber seal can "roll" and is one of the biggest issues. Add a little oil to the seal. Take your time, remove any excess material, (big problem with the spec-r diffs!! Talk about a leak problem!!) and do not overfill with oil!!! #1 issue is overfilling!!

Take care and Happy New Year!!

You could also try our RSD Aluminum Ball ends, they are much smoother than the stock black ones that take some time to break in. The coating on them is super hard and lasts a very long time, plus they weigh a lot less.

+1.......And while you're at it, check out the other trick things for the TC6 that RSD has to offer!

Does anybody know is an upgrade kit TC6 -> TC6.1 is on the way ?

Has anyone else noticed how much play there is in the driveshaft/bearing/rear hubs??
And I don't mean the hun against the wishbone..

Not even ran the car yet and the rear has a bag of slop in it...
I thought the new plastics were supposed to help with the poor fitment?

First heard for me, I've always had good luck with AE support. Even before I ran for Team Associated.

Yes, it is the AE Bearings. Use a hobby knife and score the inside of the hub, I do an asterisk pattern. This should make the bearing "press in" instead of dropping in.

it seems other brand bearings are better fitting, but most people still score the Hubs. Don't know how the 6.1's are though...

tamiya TRF Bladders
 

Just rebuilt my shocks and used Tamiya TRF #53576 bladders.....wow the difference is amazing. the Tamiya bladders are so much softer than the kit ones.:nod:
Oh, and I have been using the Tamiya clear bottom o-rings for a while and they rock too!

You can run really long screws from the inside of the spur bulkhead towards the edge of the chassis, then fasten it with small locknuts..... it won't come loose that way ;)