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Originally Posted by gom
(Post 10374132)
A weird thing i found though is that in some of Keven Hebert's most recent setup, he had 0.5mm more shimming in the front fwd mount than front rwd mount. That's similar to what i thought you suggested (which was my misunderstanding). now it really makes me wonder why he did that.
I think I heard one of the fast local guys say he was using anti-dive to keep the front end up a bit more and maybe a little flatter on corner entry, and then some arm sweep to get back some of the steering he lost from the anti-dive. I've always thought it was really curious that the Cyclone TC and TCX always have arm sweep in the stock setup, but most cars don't. -Mike |
AE said ETA 2-3 weeks on the out of stock 6.1 parts! If you dont have parts dont crash...
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Need a little help with my setup guys. Car drives great except it gets a little loose in the rear through the corners. From about the apex to exit. If I give it a little throttle it does okay but it still slides a little. I'd like to eliminate the sliding around its doing.
A screen shot of my setup is the best i can do http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...n544/setup.jpg |
Originally Posted by nmdesertracer
(Post 10375702)
AE said ETA 2-3 weeks on the out of stock 6.1 parts! If you dont have parts dont crash...
Let me know what ya need, I might be able to help and most everyone at the track is pretty good about helping keep others going when parts break. |
Originally Posted by Odin544
(Post 10377037)
Need a little help with my setup guys. Car drives great except it gets a little loose in the rear through the corners. From about the apex to exit. If I give it a little throttle it does okay but it still slides a little. I'd like to eliminate the sliding around its doing.
A screen shot of my setup is the best i can do http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...n544/setup.jpg Lighter oil in your gear diff: 32.5 or 30 More rear toe in: 2.5 or 3.0 degrees Less caster: 4 deg More droop: 6/5 Higher rear ride height: 5.2/5.4 mm Hope some of this helps! |
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
(Post 10378280)
There are a number of things I might try:
Lighter oil in your gear diff: 32.5 or 30 More rear toe in: 2.5 or 3.0 degrees Less caster: 4 deg More droop: 6/5 Higher rear ride height: 5.2/5.4 mm Hope some of this helps! |
Rear toe at least 3 deg
I would try the 2B position for your rear shocks. Try either 3A or 7A for your camber link Try removing roll bar. |
Originally Posted by Odin544
(Post 10377037)
Need a little help with my setup guys. Car drives great except it gets a little loose in the rear through the corners. From about the apex to exit. If I give it a little throttle it does okay but it still slides a little. I'd like to eliminate the sliding around its doing.
A screen shot of my setup is the best i can do http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...n544/setup.jpg |
Originally Posted by rangerjkb
(Post 10377809)
Robert,
Let me know what ya need, I might be able to help and most everyone at the track is pretty good about helping keep others going when parts break. |
anyone run 1000wt gear diff oil? seems like everyone is running 30wt - 40wt shock oil... feels a little thin.
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i just put kyosho 500k diff oil in my front diff but it dont feel as stiff.
can anyone tell me how i can make the front diff harder to turn? |
I use kyosho 50k up front enough diff action but pull like a spool :nod:
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Originally Posted by over gear
(Post 10379453)
anyone run 1000wt gear diff oil? seems like everyone is running 30wt - 40wt shock oil... feels a little thin.
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
(Post 10379608)
I use kyosho 50k up front enough diff action but pull like a spool :nod:
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is there any online store that has 6.1 parts in stock?
tried my car for the first time today, i havent been impressed with the quality and fitting on the parts when building the car, but im impressed on how good it handles on the track! easy to drive, LOTS of steering! |
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