The problem is my shocks can't push out to the droop length. The springs are too short or something else is"off". Shocks on or off I have the same droop. When on the blocks at the correct droop setting the springs have a 1/4 inch of play up and down. When on table it sits at 5mm ride height. Is this why there's new towers?

The shock locations on the new towers is the same as the old. Difference is no more camber mounts on the towers.

Maybe I have something wrong but when your car is unloaded there is 1/4 inch of difference between that measurement and ride height? maybe more if your car settles the spring under load? Is this correct?

Where are you measuring your droop settings? On the 6.1 arms it's a bit confusing because of the molding, but you should measure it right underneath the hinge pin on the bottom of that small hex shaped flange on the arm and the front underneath the hinge pin screw small flange as well. If done this way, your springs should not be loose. Unless of course, maybe your tires are high profile? This could cause this problem.

In addition, droop should always be set with the shocks off the car, as in the Olly J article in order to be more accurate. It can be done with the shocks on the car, but it is harder to be accurate.

I am looking at the Kevin Hebert 17.5 setup sheet on the associated web site. It says the shock pistons are 1,1,1,5. I assume this means that he is using the blank shock pistons and is drilling them out. But what do the numbers actually mean?

thanks,
tim

i am almost certain that they mean 1mm, 1mm, 1.5mm. they are the sizes of the holes. but i might be wrong.

My springs become loose when up on the blocks as well when I run large rear droop values,3-5mm, from what I can tell it doesn't make any difference, as the weight is off the area of the car when droop is in affect, but one thing to check is that you have the spring retainer cups up the right way, I had mine upside down when I fist built mine hahahaha and yeah then the springs were loose.

That's correct...
You can buy the Delrin versions of these pistons at RSD.

A few pictures will make finding the problem a lot easier.
Take one of the car from the rear with shocks attached and raised off the table.
Take another from the rear on the table at ride height. It should be pretty obvious given the description you provided.

I've got a new-to-me TC6. Drives really well. I'm glad I bought it. I also own TC3's and TC5's.

Have any of you put an aftermarket battery holder on? Or, are you just using the battery mounting system that AE designed for it?

With Velcro

Discodom - mine did that as well. I found out that when using the high roll center mounts your droop screw will not reach. The shocks do extend all the way before the droop screws even come into play. Once you lower your roll centers, then you can use the droop screws to adjust droop. Maybe this could be your problem ?

Does anyone have a recommended FDR gear ratio for this car in the USVTA class using the 25.5 turn motor and blinky esc? I am currently running the 17.5 TC blinky class and Im running a 3.7 FDR. Not sure I can get it much taller. I run the 48 pitch gears and with the 72/39 gearing I have in it for the 3.7 FDR in 17.5 blinky I can barley get to the motor screws to tighten the motor down because the pinion is so big. I haven't found a smaller spur than the 72 in 48P. So I'm not sure how to gear it taller.

Id rather not have to switch everything to 64P gears if I dont have to.

I guess my real question is what gear ratio are people running in the USVTA 25.5 blinky class with this car? I'm just trying to figure out what I need to get to so I can figure out a plan on what gears I need.

Thanks for the help.

It is my understanding that VTA rules call for a fixed gear. I would check out the USVTA website or search VTA threads here for more info on the rules.

It really depends on track size. A 4.0FDR is a safe starting point in VTA just about anywhere. On a larger track that may drop to the mid 3.somethings.