Can you explain why its better?

TQ wire is very flexible and the way the wire is made is usually smaller diameter than other wire and still has the same or in some cases more strands than some brands. So it's like the best of both worlds.

Steve

I had the same issue. I lined the hole in the arm mounts (that the bushing presses into) with superglue (CA) and let it dry for a few hours. This reduces the size of the hole and makes the bushing a tight fit.

Once you've done that you may then find the whole mount/bushing assembly just rotates around the screw due to a lack of friction between the mount and the washers/bulkhead. There are various solutions to this including making carbon fibre spacers, only running the A3 mounts, or buying one of the below items:

http://www.ppdbillet.com/dial-a-grip.htm

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6-...ocks_p_18.html

arm mount slop
 

Thanks for the link to that site bud, i ordered a set this morning.

cheers

I've been through 3x tc6's over the space of 6 months, been through ALOT of runs, and have never had a problem with this arm slop...:weird:

Please check your PM if you are the order from Canada.

I agree, although I didn't OWN the 3-4 TC6's, I have driven that many different ones.

Why not just epoxy every suspension piece so that there's no slop anywhere?!?!? :lol:

im thinking of picking up a tc6.
is their a newb page to help beginners out? to set up tc6?

is their any parts that should be replaced right away?

Yes you can always ask here and there is plenty of setup sheets on AE web site

No it works fine from box but there is the gear differential coming out soon for the rear and eventually front if you want to replace the spool.

So I'm really happy with my TC6...got a pretty sweet setup going and all is well, but I have one problem. It seems the screws that hold the arm mounts to the bulkheads bend over time, which causes the angle of the arm to change. I also noticed the shims behind the mount, especially if running a lot of toe, seem like they are being smashed between the arm mounts and bulkheads. Is there any way to make this more solid? Is this what the Reflex suspension block locks are for? Any tips would be great..

you must have been in some heavy bangs to bend those screws, simple solution......replace them.....

I believe most guys are using aluminum shims/washers

by the way, noticed you have a 417 for sale, is it not a good car?

hi guys, what would be a good starting put on the tc6 with a 5.5t and standard spur? I usually run 10.5
thanks

84 spur should be good

Got my second TC6 this month and I had a positive surprise:

The kit is complete, all threads are there and the little problems I had building the first kit are solved. For example the turnbuckle eyelets fit the ballstud without binding and the suspension parts are less a problem when assembling. I cannot imagine that they changed the injection mold, but everything is free without slop.

You mean FDR or car setup?...

How big of a track? Inside carpet I used a 115t spur to get into the 9-11 range. Outside on big tracks I like from 104-108t spur since you don't need crazy short gearing.

Like hacker said using aluminum shims takes away some of the "compression" that can happen to the plastic.

The Reflex blocks are good, and I like the long screws they offer, also. I've only bent one in a full-speed-sweeper accident that also broke the upper deck. I'd recommend starting with the screws first, and if you still have issues give the blocks a try.