R/C Tech Forums - Team Associated TC6 Thread

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ok Thx, I'm thinking of putting in a BLS451 in there

Hi guys I am not sure if this has been discussed or solved but I am having a issue with my arm mount bushings rotating inside the arm mounts which connect to the hinge pins. I have tried just about everything, including gluing them with CA, replacing them and even grinding the flat spot for a better fit. But they still rotate and create slop on the hinge pin. Any help would be appreciated

The TC6 has new steering parts which work in my car without slop. I had the same problem like you in my TC5, too.

Reflex Parts:
You just have the ability to play in more ways with the linkage geometrie and also to change the geometrie faster with shims. In the end it all depends on what you like. For me these geometries didn't work well. For others it is the perfect tuning. I think you cannot make a big mistake in trying them. The quality is very good and in case they sell for a high price.

The rebound-theme is not clear for me as well. I drove my TC5 with zero rebound on low and medium grip asphalt and it worked good. I used rebound then for high grip carpet and it worked excellent..., but some just do it with zero rebound and use other shock settings instead of rebound...

Forget the Body-Mounting-Issue. All Protoform and HB Mazda fit without problems. If you have to hang your body higher than normal then you can easily put some shims underneath the front body mounts --> Problem solved. ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by wcalaker (Post 9791188)

Well ive decided to move up and get my TC6 next week

Does the TC6 have the same steering arms as the TC5? I hate the slop that it has, even when new parts are used. I could never get my wheels to rotate straight , they always had a lot of wobble in them. I heard by putting teflon tape around the bearing or scoring the inside of the piece helped with the wheel wobble....any suggestions on this or has this been fixed?

Im thinking about getting some of the Reflex Racing parts for this car. Im curious as to why the link on top of the bulkhead is any better than on the shock mount?

Why are people looking for zero rebound with the shocks?

AE gear diff looked worth the wait. I like the new spool as well. I never had problems with the regular spool...i personally liked it better than the slipper spool.

I heard there were some problems mounting certain bodies to this car? I want to run the Speed 6 body....anyone know of any issues mounting this body?

Anyone have some good setup sheets for med bite carpet?

Thanks and hopefully i will have it up and running by next week

I like zero rebound on high bite because it feels more predictable. Also, it is easier usually to set all 4 shocks to zero as opposed to 25 or 50%. Run whichever works for you :)

The Reflex mounts allow for more precise roll center adjustment. I can change it by .75mm (ballstud) or 1mm (shim) at a time. Not a "necessity" but I'll swear by them!

Indeed... run whatever works for you.

Personally, I like 0 rebound because it is much, much, MUCH easier to set all the shocks equal to each other. If you are one of those people who are anal about their car and its settings, you know the frustration that building/bleeding/setting shocks entails. It is very difficult to get two shocks equal to each other in both rebound length and rate, nevermind four.

Setting them for zero rebound is a pretty simple process, especially with the Reflex bladders. Not to mention, they are very high quality pieces to begin with, so you can reuse them again and again. Ive already rebuilt my shocks 3 times with the Reflex bladders and they are still holding up great. In fact, after the first rebuild, it was even easier to get the shocks to zero rebound.

Another big plus with the RSD bladders is that they don't stick out around the edge of the shock body... so when you screw the cap down, it doesn't catch and twist the bladder... which ends up un-sealing the shock and causing all sorts of annoying crap to occur.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesL_71 (Post 9793015)

Another big plus with the RSD bladders is that they don't stick out around the edge of the shock body... so when you screw the cap down, it doesn't catch and twist the bladder... which ends up un-sealing the shock and causing all sorts of annoying crap to occur.

That problem do I have with the bladders from my TC6-Kit from november 2010. When I build my new one from october 2011 the bladders were fine just the perfect size. Now I am wondering if my old bladders swelled over the year... I never clean them with anything but the AE shock oil.

I built my shocks with the Reflex pistons and bladders, 40wt and 0 rebound, about a month ago. The car has seen at least 4 or 6 race days and the shocks are still in perfect shape (no foaminess or leaking). Set it and forget it!!!

Im glad the new shocks look like Tamiya shocks, meaning they should be a pretty easy build. I do like the Reflex pistons and that they are machined. Gonna try the zero rebound and see how that works.

Looking at the pics on the website it appears the rear diff outdrives are plastic yet they say they are aluminum. Are they just black alum or are they actually plastic? im ordering a TC6 from my LHS and just want to know if i need to order the alum outdrives or not.

Thanks

So I was tired of waiting for the AE gear diff. I bought the Spec-R diff. Built it just like the little video. Installed 70wt shock oil.

Let me just tell you that I loved it. I felt like it made the car easier (smoother) to drive. Could be just in my head but I thought it was less twitchy coming into and powering out of turns.
:tire:

Quote:

Originally Posted by losidrvr (Post 9791637)

This is not a problem I've had, but the mounts do come loose because the plastic spacers don't seem to lock them well enough to the bulkheads, and the lack of thread engagment in the bulkheads(bolts to short). I have cured the issue (so far)by using the 3 dot mounts (shortest) in the "A" position (lowest).This will lower the roll centre .533mm from the 0mm R/C that the 0B mounts give. I have also replaced the plastic spacers with Bulkhead Shims from the RC12R5 (not my idea all the pro's seem to do this), replaced the 16-12mm BHC's with 18mm sockethead caps (may need 20mm for the rear/rear depending on the the amount of rear TOE IN) and used nylock nuts inside the bulkheads......this really locks the mounts. Two practice days and 2 race days and they have not moved.
The slightly lower R/C seems better.

Black aluminum, The TC5 had plastic but the TC6 is aluminum.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wcalaker (Post 9793902)

hey guys,

I just finished building the stock spool and ball diff from kit. Afterwards I'm still left with 12 metal diff balls? Did I miss something?

Also the 2 slipper pads are for the front spool only right?

thx!

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzztech (Post 9795573)

Those are for building a ball diff out of the front spool, or you could look at them as spares for the first rebuild of the rear ball diff.

Yes only the front spool gets the slipper pads.

I'm wiring up my TC6 and was curious what gauge wire I should use. I'm running a 17.5 no boost. I was thinking 14awg would be plenty. Suggestions?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Odin544 (Post 9795624)

I'm wiring up my TC6 and was curious what gauge wire I should use. I'm running a 17.5 no boost. I was thinking 14awg would be plenty. Suggestions?

Indeed, that should be plenty. Although I will say if you havent got wire yet, get TQ 13g. Best wire ever. Period.