If you stock up on parts, I think that the biggest advantage that you would have to buying the hard parts is that your kit came with hard parts and you would want to maintain consistency with what is on the car. Potentially your car could behave strangely with a soft left suspension arm and a right hard suspension arm etc.

I could always tell I was buying a hard part because it said (hard) on the package. Once out of the package, it seems pretty hard to tell which ones are hard. It is much harder to thread in a droop screw or ball stud into the hard parts when new, so that would be one way to tell.

Theoretically, hard parts are going to give you an advantage on high traction surfaces like carpet because there will be less flex, and soft parts could potentially give you an advantage on low traction surfaces because of more flex. Most people just run the hards. I still have some old soft TC5 parts laying around that I'll mix and match with hard parts on my car because I'm cheap and frankly can't tell the difference. If I was going to a big race where I cared about doing well, I'd probably switch everything out to hard parts on principle.

Hope that was the info. you were looking for. I can't speak to the part number situation, but in my experience (hard) is always in the title when ordering (hard) parts.

LMAO:lol::lol:

Nice job on the Gear Diff!! Can't wait to get one.:nod:

Sakura XI and Serpent 411
 

Why are they better cars?

This thread is not about which car is the best, try other threads for that. This is all about the TC6, the car that suits me best. Let's go ontopic.:lol:

If you're fast, it doesn't matter what car you use (assuming a current one). :)

It actually came down to the Sakura and TC6 for me. Both are priced right and can be fast. A lot of locals run Associated here, so that was the biggest factor for my decision, since I can help more guys running the same car.

Did anybody else have an issue with the turnbuckles and ball cups that came with the car? my ballcups were so tight they binded the stearing so that it couldn't center itself (I'm running a savox sc1251, 125oz @ .09) I changed to RPM ballcups and it was fine, however I also had to shave some off the Turnbuckles for the steering so that the turnbuckles wouldn't go through the ballcups trying to get the linkage short enough to fit, as well I had to use the longer setting instead of the short one the kit suggests. Guess I'm going to have to buy some shorter turnbuckles because I cant use the shorter links on the camber adjustments either without issue

Just take a plier and pinch the ballcups a little bit. Helped for me ;)

Are you having to shorten the turnbuckles when using the RPM ends? If so, I believe that considering they are typically a bit longer than the stock ballcups.

With the stock ballcups and studs, I only had to shorten the servo linkage ballcups about ~1.5-2mm each. Didnt have to do a thing to the turnbuckles themselves.

Also, the "squeezing with a plier" trick does work to get some of the play out with the stock cups and ends. I also find that when assembling them, you want to squeeze the ballcup onto the stud without it being on the car. Then stick the threaded part into the chuck of a Dremel and turn it on low speed for about 30 seconds. Youll end up with the perfect amount of play... not to loose, not to tight.

And the winner is a mistake..... Good luck with a shitty xray... They are WAY over priced for the quality you get. The tc6 is a great kit for the price and anything higher than that in price wise I would spend on would be either a serpent or a shumacher.

But hey I am thinking your not thinking for yourself as the option parts are option for a reason now if you talk to the team drivers they use the kit setups with the kit parts... if You cant get that same kit to go around the track consistantly without crashing then making those changes wont help u....
Its amazing ppl say all this stuff and have to have the wizz bangs and what not as its all about bragging rights yay yay yay.

You buy a kit and use the book setup and then learn to drive first then read and read and learn vehicle dynamics as there is NO point making changes if you dont even know what they are doing...

Now on your topic with the gear diff compared to the ball diff you can change the ball diff settings on the fly and it takes about 5 secs to do. The gear diff you need to have about five gear diffs with all different weight oils in it so you can change on the fly otherwise you run out of track time and races at a meeting.

Slipper spool compared to spool no difference at all... You can tighten the slipper spool that tight its impossible to slip but you can use it as a tunning method by making it slip to and thats a adjustment on the fly aswell but with a spool there is none...

I think you need to think about it alittle bit more before you start thinking the way you are.....
Regards
Fordy

what Dennis said. I will only add that you pinch them when on the ball studs. They work perfectly. Most all of the top AE drivers still use them. The cool thing about these cars is they are competitive just the way they are. Seemed like when I was running TCX all the pros had all these hop-up parts from other cars, that is silly. I know now with the AE gear diff I bet they will be running all AE parts on their cars.

Like others have already mentioned, the kit ballcups work perfectly once you loosen them up on the ballstud a little by squeezing them with some needlenose pliers. I would even venture to say that they are the best ballcups I've ever used. I would prefer them over RPM because you can make adjustments without popping off the ballstud and prematurely wearing them out. I had both an Xray and a TC6 that I ran back to back for comparison for a while and I was surprised at how sloppy all the links on the XRAY were compared to the TC6. If I went back to XRAY I'd probably put TC6 ballcups on it.

I don't remember running into any turnbuckle length problems with the kit setup and the stock ballcups. You will have to buy shorter turnbuckles for running camber links in any other position than hole #7, but everything else should be just fine.

XRAY are great cars. I don't think "shitty" is the proper term.

It took me all of 3 minutes to change my gear oil today. There's no reason to have 5 at different viscocities.

The slipper spool should only slip in an accident so it doesn't stress parts. I'm not sure I'd want it to slip as a tuning aid, because that's just wasted power. You don't want a ball diff to slip in the back - I see a slippe spool the same way.

Well ive decided to move up and get my TC6 next week

Does the TC6 have the same steering arms as the TC5? I hate the slop that it has, even when new parts are used. I could never get my wheels to rotate straight , they always had a lot of wobble in them. I heard by putting teflon tape around the bearing or scoring the inside of the piece helped with the wheel wobble....any suggestions on this or has this been fixed?

Im thinking about getting some of the Reflex Racing parts for this car. Im curious as to why the link on top of the bulkhead is any better than on the shock mount?

Why are people looking for zero rebound with the shocks?

AE gear diff looked worth the wait. I like the new spool as well. I never had problems with the regular spool...i personally liked it better than the slipper spool.

I heard there were some problems mounting certain bodies to this car? I want to run the Speed 6 body....anyone know of any issues mounting this body?

Anyone have some good setup sheets for med bite carpet?

Thanks and hopefully i will have it up and running by next week

Is the standard sized Futaba servo a good fit on TC6 or do I need a low profile servo for it???

cheers :cool:

Yep, fits fine.. i run a 9252 in mine..If you have an older style receiver that takes up heaps of room then a low profile will help..